by Matthew Orwat | Mar 3, 2015
The process of pruning roses. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Many rose enthusiasts ask every season? When do I prune my roses? The general recommendation is February 15th. If that recommendation is followed it’s usually not harmful, though climate can be very different from the coast to the state line . Therefore, my typical answer is to advise gardeners to prune roses when the Azaleas are in bloom. Typically, Azaleas are in full bloom or have finished blooming by the beginning of March. In many areas of the Florida Panhandle this year, they have not started due to late season freezes.
March 1st it is time to prune repeat blooming roses regardless of the condition of the Azaleas, so that gardeners will enjoy a few spring bloom cycles before the heat sets in.
When pruning roses there are several factors that need to be considered. First is the type. Is the rose a Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, Old Garden Rose, Shrub or Climber? Is it once blooming or repeat blooming? Once blooming roses and many repeat blooming climbers perform best if pruned after the spring display. This ensures the largest amount of bloom possible.
Hybrid Teas, Floribundas and their ilk are usually pruned back at least by half, keeping the strongest 4-8 canes and removing old, diseased, damage or non productive wood near the base or juncture of a large cane.
Typical “light” pruning of a Hybrid Tea or Floribunda. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Old garden roses are seldom pruned hard. The best method in pruning old garden roses is to remove dead, old or unproductive wood, and eliminate crossing branches and excessive inward growth. This opens up the plant and allows for increased airflow, which reduces disease incidence. Once the plant has been “opened up” it may be pruned back by 1/3 to 1/2. Pruning back Old Garden Roses by 1/3 to 1/2 is not necessary but is often done for space considerations.
A lightly pruned old garden rose. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Many Shrub Roses, such as Knockout, and various Old Garden Roses are trimmed several times a year with hedge trimmers. This is often the only pruning done except for the annual removal of dead or non-productive wood.
Additionally, roses benefit from the removal and disposal of any remaining leaves after the completion of late winter pruning. This helps reduce disease carry over from the previous year and induces a short dormant period.
Along with pruning it is often advantageous to spray with a dormant fungicide spray, such as Lime-Sulfur. This can be found at farm supply stores or nurseries and must be applied according to label directions. It is especially important to cover the skin when using this product, since the sulfur component is caustic to skin in its concentrated form. It will also burn any new growth, so it can only be used during the dormant season.
by Mary Salinas | Mar 2, 2015
The sight and sound of birds in the yard reconnects us to the wonder and beauty of nature. Providing food, water and shelter can bring the joy of our feathered friends into outdoor spaces.
Leave behind the standard palette of trees and shrubs that characterize many urban landscapes. Rather, choose trees and shrubs that provide food and shelter to birds. Here are just a few to consider:
Hawthorns – The thorniness of these trees provide excellent protection for birds nesting in their strong branches. In spring, their abundance of blooms attracts a wide variety of pollinators. The size of the fruits vary with different species of hawthorn. For instance, the yellow haw (Crataegus flava) has large fruit suitable for larger birds, while the littlehip hawthorn (C. spathulata) produces small fruit for even the smallest of the fruit-eating birds.
Hollies – When most other fruiting trees are bare of fruit in winter, hollies provide abundant berries in the fall and hold them well into winter to provide food for migratory and resident songbirds. Dahoon holly is a versatile tree for many landscape settings, from dry, sunny locations to moist woodlands. It is even moderately salt tolerant.
Viburnums – This family of large shrubs are adaptable to a wide range of landscape situations. The dense foliage and branching provide excellent nesting opportunities for birds. Flowers bloom in spring to summer and are followed by purple fruits in late summer and fall that are enjoyed by many birds.
Songbird at a tube feeder. Photo by Thomas Wright, UF/IFAS.
Do you want to attract birds right away? While you wait for new plantings to mature and provide food, put out a few bird feeders. There are a wide variety from which to choose. Tube, hopper and platform feeders can be filled with a variety of seed mixes. Suet feeders are constructed of a heavy gauge wire and hold a solid cake of animal fat with seeds, nuts, grains or fruits. Nectar feeders cater to hummingbirds. Fruit feeders are made to hold large pieces of fruit, like apples and oranges. The type of feeder and food you offer will determine the species or type of birds you will attract.
Don’t forget a bird bath. Birds need a clean water source, so remember to rinse it on a regular basis.
Think twice about attracting birds, though, if you let your cats run free. Cats are dangerous to our bird populations. But if they are strictly housecats, they will love to watch the birds through the windows or porch screens as much or even more than you will.
For more information:
U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service: Backyard Bird Feeding
Attracting Backyard Birds: Bird Feeder Selection
by Sheila Dunning | Feb 3, 2015
Nothing signals spring in the south like the reds, pinks and whites of azaleas in full bloom. Nearly every yard has one. For two weeks out of the year there are flowers everywhere. But the glory fades fast. That was, until the late 90’s.
Twenty-eight Encore® azaleas have been released since 1998. Robert E “Buddy” Lee, an avid collector and azalea breeder from Independence, Louisiana initiated an azalea breeding program to incorporate fall blooming characteristics into a winter hardy, evergreen azalea. He started his work in the 1980s, working out of his home with the goal of bringing the beauty of spring azaleas to other seasons. As the project grew, he eventually teamed up with Flowerwood Nursery to continue the process that would bring Encore® azaleas to the public. And, this spring number 29, Autumn Fire™ , a true red dwarf will be released, nearly a year ahead of its original predicted introduction date.
Lee selected the seedling that was to be named Autumn Amethyst™ in 1986, but did not receive the plant patent until 1998. So far, there are two series of Encore® azaleas: the Autumn series and the Southern series. The Autumn series can be grown in Zone 7 or warmer. The Southern series was designed for even warmer climates; they can be grown in Zone 8 or warmer. The Southern varieties are especially good for the Florida panhandle and the Mississippi and Alabama gulf coasts.
Different parents were used for the various cultivars now available. The fall flowering trait primarily comes from Rhododendron oldhamii Fourth of July – a cultivar selected from seed collected in 1968 at 2,500 feet up Taiwan’s Mount Tai Tun. The female parent used to create Autumn Amethyst™ was a winter hardy hybrid named ‘Karens’ a cross between ‘Hinodegini’, the old Kurume variety, and R. yedoensis var. poukhanense, the Korean azalea.
At the 2015 Gulf States Horticultural Expo last week, I got to see Autumn Fire™ in full bloom. It is a bright cherry red with 2.5” blooms, on a nice compact 2.5’ X 3’ dwarf plant. I think it’s a keeper. Encore® azaleas are available in an array of colors, growth forms and bloom characteristics. New hybrids provide the traditional spring display during March and April, but they also bloom again in the fall, usually during September or early October. They reliably bloom in the spring and fall, but are never quite as covered with a complete carpet of flowers as you might see on a traditional azalea.
Encore® azaleas have the same cultural requirements as traditional azaleas. They should have a pH between 5.0 and 5.5, a well drained organic soil and water during the summer months. Bloom is heavier in brighter locations, with areas having morning sun and afternoon shade probably the best. If pruning is required to control size, thin and shear them in the spring just after bloom.
by Matthew Orwat | Jan 27, 2015
The magnolia white scale, Phenacaspis cockerelli, is also called false oleander scale. Image credit http://entomology.ifas.ufl.edu/creatures/orn/scales/false_oleander_scale.htm
Many fruit and ornamental shrubs and trees suffer from scale insects throughout the year. Most of the time home gardeners notice these insects in the spring or summer, because their exudate is the primary substrate for sooty mold growth. Although it seems counter-intuitive, the best time to control scale insects is in late winter. This can be achieved with one or two applications of horticultural oil, often called “dormant oil” in late January and early February.
Horticultural oil has been in use for well over one hundred years. While first only available in dormant oil formulations, it is now available in several types that allow for near year round application. Winter or “dormant” oils are heavier in weight, so they take longer to dissipate. Therefore, they cover pests for longer periods of time and are highly effective. All-season oils are purer, lighter and mixed with an emulsifier. This ensures that it will mix with water well and not damage the plant when exposed to warm, high-light conditions.
Horticultural oils are effective on soft-bodied insects and their eggs. Although scale insects often have a hard outer covering, they are considered soft-bodied. In addition to scale, mealybugs, aphids and spider mites are affected. These oils work primarily by smothering the insect and/or their eggs. Thus when oils are used, they block the insect’s ability to breathe.
Dormant oil is not a cure-all. It does not last very long, therefore the insect must be present for it to work. Additionally, it may kill beneficial insect eggs, so only use when a pest is present and do not apply to areas where infestations are not known. Make sure to cover the underside of the leaves and stems with spray.
Before applying dormant oils read the product label carefully. Any sensitive plants will be listed and temperature limitations will be noted.
Dormant oil is commonly used to control pests on these plants:
- Fruit trees in the Rosaceae (Pear, Apple, Peach, Plum, Nectarine, Blackberry)
- Roses
- Camellia (when not in bloom)
- Magnolia
- Gardenia
- Blueberry
- Crapemyrtle
- Dogwood
- Citrus
- Many others
by Beth Bolles | Dec 2, 2014
Our recent cold weather was not only a surprise for many locals but also for many plants that still had plenty of green growth. After a couple of nights of freezing temperatures, even deciduous trees that had not dropped their leaves, look a little ratty.
Since it is just the beginning of December and we are likely to have many more days this winter with cold weather, now is not the time to react to plants that were damaged. There are a few exceptions of plants that you can prune back, but in general patience is the key for the winter garden and cold-damaged plants.
Here are a few guidelines.
Unless planted in very protected spots, annuals like coleus and angelonia were killed by recent cold air. You may remove these plants or cut them back close to the group to make garden areas look neater. You may want to add some new winter annuals to brighten up these spots.
Warm season annuals can be removed from the garden.
Both young and mature citrus trees experienced injury since many plants still had tender growth. Do not prune out any damage at this time. We will wait until next Spring to learn where the growth will resume and then prune as necessary to remove dead branches.
The tender growth on a young Meyer lemon was damaged by cold air.
As expected, the above ground portions of flowering perennials were severely injured by cold air. It is best not to prune these back now since the layer of branches and foliage may help insulate lower branches that could still have some life. If you are not able to tolerate the look of cold-damaged perennials in your garden, consider only pruning half of the plant just to make a neater appearance in the garden. When warm weather returns next year, we may be surprised to see growth resume on lower stems.
Many flowering perennials like Tibouchina will return from the ground next year.
Deciduous trees that would have normally dropped leaves before the cold have full canopies of dead leaves. Trees will eventually drop these leaves aided by winter winds and rainfall.
This Japanese maple will eventually drop it’s cold-damaged leaves and offer attractive bark and structure in the winter garden.
by Sheila Dunning | Dec 2, 2014
Camellias have been a part of the landscape in the Southeastern United States for over 200 years. They are native to Asia and were introduced near Charleston, South Carolina in 1786. The common name camellia refers to varieties and hybrids of Camellia japonica and to lesser known varieties of C. sasanqua and C. reticulata. The growing conditions in Northwest Florida are well suited for many camellia varieties. Camellias can serve several functions in the landscape including foundation plantings, screens, accent plants, background groupings and hedges. Maximum benefit can be achieved by mass plantings or groupings. Single plants should be focal point in beds rather than randomly placed throughout the lawn. Camellias flower in the fall and winter when their display of colorful blooms is most appreciated. During the remainder of the year their evergreen foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively slow growth make camellias excellent landscape plants. Some camellia growers enjoy competing in flower shows and manipulate the flower buds to achieve larger and earlier flowers. This involves removing competing flower buds and applying gibberellic acid (a plant hormone). Individual cultivars can be selected for size and form ranging from small and irregular to large and upright. Texture and foliage color also differ among the various species and multiple varieties. Mid-season flowering varieties that bloom from November through January are best suited for Florida conditions.
Warm fall temperatures may prevent early varieties from flowering properly. Late-blooming selections may attempt to send out new leaves before the end of the flowering period which results in “bullnoses”. Bullnosing is characterized by poor quality flowers which do not open fully and may even drop while still tight buds. Extended dry periods while in the bud stage can make the condition more likely. While flowering, camellias need 1 inch of water applied each week. Camellias perform best in partially shaded locations which are enhanced by good drainage and air movement. Fertile, acidic soils high in organic matter are preferred. The soil must be well-drained because camellias will not grow in wet areas. Do not plant them in areas with a high water table and/or hard-pan. This will result in a shallow root system which is more susceptible to injury during dry periods. Camellias should be installed where cold air can move in and out freely, but the area should be protected from strong northwest winds. Plantings under established trees or in areas that has structures to block the wind are usually injured less by cold temperatures. These conditions enable the plants to gradually thaw or warm in the morning before being exposed to direct sunlight. Dense shade may result in sparse foliage and poor flowering. Camellias exposed to full sun may appear yellow-green, but may yield more flowers. Either situation is stressful to the plants and can lead to pest problems. Tea scale is the most common insect on camellias. Scales generally feed on the underside of leaves and may not be noticed until large populations have developed. Symptoms include very small elongated white and/or brown raised “flakes” on the underside of leaves that turn yellowish in color. Tea scale can be controlled with horticultural oil, sprayed after flowering finishes but while temperatures are sill cool, in late winter.
