Rudbeckia hirta, commonly known as black-eyed Susan, is a vibrant and hardy wildflower with golden-yellow petals and a dark brown central cone. Photo by kburgess, Adobe Stock.
Florida’s diverse ecosystem showcases a remarkable array of native wildflowers that burst into vibrant colors, particularly during the spring season. Cultivating these indigenous blooms not only enhances the beauty of your lawn but also fosters biodiversity. Florida’s spring landscape comes alive with a vibrant tapestry of native wildflowers, each species contributing its unique charm to the natural scenery.
Yellow, a color that beckons pollinators, especially bees and butterflies, is a prevalent hue among these wildflowers. Many have evolved to showcase bright yellow tones, attracting pollinators, and ensuring the vital transfer of pollen for the continued existence of the plant species. In this spotlight, we’ll explore a selection of my favorite yellow-blooming wildflowers: Leavenworth’s tickseed, dune sunflower, and black-eyed Susan.
Leavenworth’s Tickseed
Leavenworth’s tickseed showcases brilliant yellow flowers with distinct maroon markings, contributing to its charm as a cheerful and attractive wildflower in gardens and meadows. Photo by Sunshower Shots, Adobe Stock.
Coreopsis, Florida’s state wildflower, boasts 14 native species flourishing in North Florida. Among these, Leavenworth’s tickseed (Coreopsis leavenworthii), predominantly found in Florida, graces the Panhandle region with its distinctive yellow, daisy-like flowers adorned with dark centers and scalloped yellow ray florets.
Thriving in open areas, flatwoods, and prairies, this annual or short-lived perennial becomes a beacon of color in the spring landscape. Ideal for wildflower gardens, Leavenworth’s tickseed requires adequate space for reseeding, best achieved by planting one to two feet apart in the spring for optimal flowering. The plant quickly establishes itself in moist soils, benefiting from occasional pruning or mowing to encourage a second flush of flowers.
Preferably rooted in sandy, well-drained soil, Leavenworth’s tickseed demands full sun exposure for maximum flower production, with moist soils playing a pivotal role in reseeding and maintaining this distinctive species.
Beach Sunflower
Adapting well to both coastal and inland environments, the beach sunflower attracts butterflies and other pollinators with its vibrant blooms. Photo by Nahhan, Adobe Stock.
The beach sunflower (Helianthus debilis), also recognized as the dune sunflower, is renowned for its coastal charm and nearly year-round blossoms. Adapting gracefully to both coastal regions and inland landscapes, this sunflower showcases two-inch flowers resembling daisies or sunflowers, boasting yellow petals and brown centers. A captivating trait is its tendency to follow the sun throughout the day.
When cultivating beach sunflowers, it is essential to allocate ample space for their spreading nature. To maximize visual impact, consider planting them in masses, maintaining distances of three to four feet between each plant. As beach sunflowers may become unruly over time, periodic removal of old stems is advisable. Encouraging new plants to sprout from seeds contributes to a healthier growth pattern. Light trims every three months can further enhance the foliage’s vibrancy and overall maintenance. While acting as an annual in freezing temperatures, the beach sunflower generally reseeds itself and displays admirable tolerance to coastal elements, including salt and wind.
For optimal growth conditions, planting in full sun encourages abundant flowering, although the plant can tolerate light shade for part of the day. Preferably, choose well-drained sandy soils, avoiding persistently moist conditions to ensure the overall health and vitality of the beach sunflower.
Black-eyed Susan
Black-eyed Susans are not only visually appealing but also serve as valuable nectar sources for pollinators, attracting butterflies, bees, and other beneficial insects to the garden or natural habitat. Photo by Green Stock Creative, Adobe Stock.
Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), a classic native bloom, captivates with its widespread availability and versatile nature as an annual, biennial, or perennial. This resilient plant grows to a height of one to two feet, showcasing rough-textured leaves and deep-yellow aster-like flowers with dark brown disk flowers forming a central dome.
When incorporating black-eyed Susans into your landscape, consider their suitability for mixed wildflower beds, where they effortlessly self-seed in open or lightly mulched areas. Maintaining proper spacing of 14 to 18 inches between plants, vigilant monitoring during extended dry periods, and providing deep watering, when necessary, contribute to the overall health and vitality of these iconic blooms.
Thriving in well-drained soils, black-eyed Susan showcases adaptability to various soil types. Whether exposed to full sun or partial shade, the plant optimizes its blooming potential, enhancing the visual appeal of any landscape.
Encourage Wildflowers in Your Landscape
Selecting native wildflowers adapted to your landscape’s specific soil, light, and drainage conditions is crucial for success. If initial attempts fail, try different species until you find the perfect match, emphasizing the importance of using the right plant in the right place. Thorough watering aids in establishment, but once native wildflowers are established, they generally require minimal irrigation. Avoid overwatering to prevent fungal and rot issues.
Native wildflowers in Florida typically do not need additional fertilization, as it can lead to rapid growth and increased susceptibility to pests and diseases. Embrace the natural resilience of these plants by avoiding unnecessary fertilization. Encourage the persistence of wildflowers by embracing self-seeding, maintaining open, lightly mulched areas for natural germination, and being vigilant when weeding.
Florida’s spring blooming wildflowers, including Leavenworth’s tickseed, beach sunflower, and black-eyed Susan, contribute to the state’s biodiversity. Selecting the right species and providing proper care allows us to cultivate these native blooms and actively participate in conserving Florida’s precious ecosystem.
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is a versatile and resilient herbaceous perennial known for its feathery foliage and clusters of vibrant flowers. Propagating yarrow is a rewarding endeavor that allows gardeners to multiply their plant stock and enjoy its numerous benefits. This guide will explore the various methods of yarrow propagation, shedding light on the steps to ensure successful growth.
Understanding Yarrow
Before delving into the propagation techniques, it’s essential to have a basic understanding of yarrow. This hardy plant is native to Europe and Asia but has adapted well to various climates around the world. Yarrow boasts fern-like leaves and flat-topped flower clusters that can be white, pink, yellow, or red, depending on the variety.
Photo Credit: Alicia Lamborn
Propagation Methods
Yarrow can be propagated from seeds, providing a cost-effective and straightforward method. Collect seeds from mature yarrow plants in late summer or early fall. Sow the seeds in well-draining soil, either directly in the garden or in seed trays indoors. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination occurs, typically within two weeks. Once seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them to their permanent locations.
Division is a reliable method for propagating yarrow while rejuvenating older plants. Divide established yarrow clumps in the early spring or fall when the plant is dormant. Using a sharp spade, separate the clump into sections, ensuring each division has both roots and shoots. Replant the divisions in well-prepared soil, spacing them appropriately to allow for future growth.
Other methods that are often used but not as popular include root cuttings and softwood cuttings.
Care Tips for Propagated Yarrow
Regardless of the propagation method used, certain care practices contribute to the success of young yarrow plants:
Yarrow thrives in full sun and well-draining soil. Ensure that the planting site receives at least six hours of sunlight daily and use soil that allows water to drain freely.
While yarrow is drought-tolerant once established, newly propagated plants require regular watering. Keep the soil consistently moist until the roots are well-established.
Apply a layer of mulch around yarrow plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.
Yarrow generally doesn’t require heavy fertilization. A balanced, all-purpose fertilizer applied in spring can support healthy growth.
Propagating yarrow can be a rewarding process that allows both novice and experienced gardeners to expand their yarrow collection. Whether through seeds, division, root cuttings, or softwood cuttings, understanding the specific requirements of each method is crucial for success. By following these propagation techniques and providing proper care, you can enjoy the beauty and versatility of yarrow in your garden for years to come.
One of the more popular flowering perennials grown in the landscapes of Florida and throughout the Southeast is the daylily. This blooming perennial traveled with many of the early settlers. They brought this plant for several reasons beyond the enjoyment of the bloom display, it was considered a source of food by including the petals and buds into the cooking of specific dishes.
The daylily is an easy to grow plant that requires less management than many of the other perennials grown in the garden settings of the landscape. Daylilies are linked to the lily family but are not actually in this family, Hemerocallis in Greek is Hemero for “day’ with Callis meaning “beauty”. The passion by many professional breeders and novice growers can be seen in the many selections and varieties in the plant industry today. This plant brings interest and joy to anyone that visits your landscape gardens.
Hemerocallis x ‘Mystic Red Dragon’. Photo Credit: J. Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
This clump forming plant can be grown in different soil types from sandy loam, clay to muck edges near wetlands. The location for best performance is sandy well drained soil with high amounts of organic matter. It has a moderate salt level tolerance lending itself as one perennial to consider in coastal settings. The best way to accomplish the levels of organic matter is to till the bed area for planting, add three to four inches of compost or well-rotted manure plus a ½ pound of 3:2:1 ratio fertilizer to a 100 square foot bed. The 3:2:1 is a Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium fertilizer recommendation. Till all of this into the previously tilled bed to a six-inch depth. This mix of sand or clay with organic matter at the six-inch soil depth places it where the roots will grow.
Daylilies multiply in several different ways from forming clumps of plants from a single plant over three to four years that can be divided into separate plants and replanted to expand the bed area for managing the color display of the original plant. Plant breeders cross pollinate between selected plants that have desirable characteristics. These characteristics may be ruffled outside edges on the petals, bright or daker petal color, a change in color from the outside portion of the flower petal to the throat area at the center of the bloom or even the height of the scape which is the stem that emerges from the leaf clusters near the base that supports the flower display.
Hemerocallis x ‘Oriental Impressions’. Photo Credit: J. Stephen Greer, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
Daylilies can be purchased at many box stores in containers and easily transplanted in the garden. Another option is to visit local daylily nurseries as they often have more named variety options with many different flower colors available. Local nurseries usually grow plants in the ground so they will need to be dug and purchased as a bareroot. When planting bareroot daylilies look at the location where the leaves emerge near the base just above root area and plant one and a half to two feet apart. Make sure to plant no deeper than at that point of root and leaf growth area known as the crown. The crown must be above the soil level for quality growth.
After planting and watering in the plants be sure to mulch the bed with three to four inches of pinestraw or bark mulch. This manages weed growth and keeps soil moisture at consistent levels reducing stress to the plant. If periods of dry weather conditions occur watering the plants will be needed to keep the plants from stressing.
As a boy I remember our St. Augustinegrass lawn. I fondly remember winter annual weeds in that lawn.
Many of these so called “weeds” are native wildflowers. And a number of pollinators use these wildflowers.
To see clumps of winter annuals in our yard and in neighbors’ yards was a natural part of the transition from winter to spring. They added interest to the lawn. It was expected to see henbit with its square stiff stems holding up a display of small pinkish purple flowers in late winter to early spring. A clump of henbit was a great place to hide an Easter egg, especially a pink or purple one.
A pink Easter egg hidden in a mix of clover. Photo Credit: Larry Williams, UF/IFAS Extension – Okaloosa County
Wild geranium offered another good hiding place for eggs with its pink to purple flowers. Large clumps of annual chickweed would nicely hide whole eggs. Green colored eggs would blend with chickweed’s green leaves.
Crimson clover with its reddish flowers, hop clover and black medic with their bright yellow flowers provided good hiding places for Easter eggs. Plus, clovers add nitrogen back to our soils.
A yellow Easter egg hidden in a mix of clover. Photo Credit: Larry Williams, UF/IFAS Extension – Okaloosa County
The lawn was healthy and thick enough to limit summer weeds. But during fall and winter, as the lawn would naturally thin and go dormant, these winter annuals would run their course.
I remember the clean smell of freshly mowed grass in spring with the first mowing. Once mowed and as the heat took its toll, by late April or mid-May, these winter annuals were gone. What was left was a green lawn to help cool the landscape as the weather warmed. The lawn was mowed high as St. Augustine should be, watered only occasionally during dry periods, played on and typically not worried with.
Most lawns have winter annuals that let us know spring is near. Perhaps we worry too much with these seasonal, temporary plants that may have wrongly been labeled as weeds. Besides, how long have we been doing battle with them and they are still here. Most lawns have winter annual seeds that await the cooler temperatures and shorter days of early winter to begin yet another generation. By May they are gone.
UF/IFAS Extension agents in the Florida Panhandle are asking you to join in on “No Mow March” in 2023. The idea is to holdup on mowing until the calendar flips to April, allowing pollinators to enjoy these common winter annuals.
Here is a website with more information on No Mow March. On this site, you’ll find a link to sign up to be a participant, check out what Okaloosa and other counties are doing by clicking on “Events” and see more about pollinators, all on this site.
This article was written by: Joanna Jaramillo Silva1, Rachel Mallinger2, Xavier Martini3
1 Ph.D. Student, University of Florida, Department of Entomology and Nematology
2 Assistant Professor, University of Florida, Department of Entomology and Nematology
3 Assistant Professor, North Florida Research and Education Center, University of Florida, Department of Entomology and Nematology
Bees are the primary pollinators of plants, essential in natural and crop environments for guaranteeing global food security to the human population. Florida is home of more than 300 species of native wild bees, which rely on pollen and nectar from flowers to survive. However, a global pollinator decline reported for honeybees and wild species (including insects, birds, and bats), is decreasing the worldwide provision of pollination services. Food limitation (pollen and nectar), resulting from decreasing flower diversity and quantity, is one of the multiple causes of pollinator decline. Pollinator-friendly plants are receiving attention from people of various disciplines such as the scientific community, stakeholders, Master Gardeners, and citizen science groups willing to participate in pollinator conservation efforts.
Domestic gardens
Domestic gardens comprise a substantial proportion of land in the urban landscape and are often the most significant component of green space; they play essential roles in conserving plant genetic resources, insects, and other wildlife, and have social and economic value. Gardens behave as islands of usable habitat surrounded by urbanization, and they present varying benefits for pollinators. There is generally a positive relationship between high pollinator abundance, flower diversity, and bloom evenness. Gardens for pollinators propose to solve the pollinator crisis by enlarging greenspaces in urban areas by planting more flowers in urbanized environment and by improving the diversity of floral resources for pollinators.
Pollinator friendly plants
There are different categories of floral traits: qualities that attract pollinators such as floral size and color, and physical characteristics that reward the pollinator (nectar and pollen quantity and quality). Flowers with higher quality and quantity rewards are more attractive to pollinators. Nectar provides the main sugar source for insect pollinators; its energetic value is determined by its sugar concentration. The volume of nectar produced by flowers will directly affected visitation by honeybees and bumblebees, butterflies, and birds. Pollen on the other side, consists of the main source of protein for most pollinators.
RECOMMENDATIONS
1. Provide a Mix of floral shapes and sizes.
There is usually a positive correlation between flower size and nectar volume: long tube flowers usually provide more nectar, whereas open or flat flowers provide more pollen. In addition, flower shapes are also associated with different pollinator types (Fig. 1). Long-tongued insects (Butterflies, and some bees) visit deep corolla tube flowers, while short-tongued pollinators (wasps, flies and some bees) remain on short tube or open corolla flowers.
Figure 1. Examples of plants with long tube flowers, short-medium, and open corolla flowers (From left to right: Butterfly on a Pardon my pink (Monarda didyma) (Credits: Joanna J. Silva); Carpenterbee on Salvia Indigo spires (Salvia longispicata x farinaceae) (Credits: Kelly Thomas); Sweat bee on Gaillardia pulchella) (Credits: Joanna J. Silva).
2. Provide a mix of flower colors
Color patterns influence the flower’s attractiveness and increase the efficiency of pollination by helping insects orient on the flower and guide them to the reward (Fig. 2). Bees prefer white, yellow, or blue-purple flowers. Orange, pink, and red flowers attract other pollinators such as butterflies.
Figure 2. Examples of native plants to Florida that display different colors Native to Florida (From left to right: Butterfly on Spanish needles (Bidens alba), Tickseed coreopsis (Coreopsis leavenworthii), Sckullcap (Scutellaria arrenicola), Pitcher sage (Salvia azurea), Swamp Rose-mallow (Hibiscus grandiflorus), Carpenterbee on False-Rosemary (Conradina grandiflora), Spotted beebalm (Monarda puctata), Blanket flower or Firewheel* (Gaillardia pulchella) . Credits: Joanna J. Silva *A recent discovery suggests that Firewheel is not considered native to Florida, but it is widely cultivated. It is probably not native to the rest of the eastern USA as previously thought (ISB: Atlas of Florida Plants (usf.edu), Gaillardia – University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (ufl.edu)).
3. Include a pollinator hotel
Add a bee nest box for the native bees that build their nests above ground. Solitary bees and wasps will take up residence in a pollinator hotel after you place it outside.
4. Provide flowers throughout the year.
Pollen and nectar collection varies seasonally for honeybees, while many other solitary bee species collect pollen continuously during adult foraging to feed their larvae. Design the garden to have three or more different plants blooming at any given time during the growing season, which is March through November in northern areas of the state (Fig. 3).
Figure 3. Honeybee on Viburnum (Winter) (Credits: Joanna J. Silva), Honeybee on Salvia Indigo spires taking nectar (Spring-Summer) (Credits: Walker Bensch), False Rosemary and Muhlly grass (Muhlenbergia capillaris) (Fall) (Credits: Joanna J. Silva).
5. Include native plants.
A “Florida native plant” refers to a species occurring within the state boundaries prior to European contact, according to the best available scientific and historical documentation. Florida is home to over 4,867 species of plants; 3,314 species are considered native of which 230 species are endemic.
6. Chose the right plant for each location.
Success depends on using the right plant in the right place, especially by considering plant’s cold hardiness (Fig. 4). Plant selection for landscapers, nurseries, and gardens requires individual site criteria and an evaluation of individual plant performance under different environmental circumstances, such as water, soil, and temperature.
Figure 4. Hardiness zones in Florida (http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov).
