Video: Choosing the Best Location for a Southern Magnolia
Southern magnolia makes an attractive tree in the Florida landscape. Choosing the best spot for your tree is important for its optimum growth.
It’s Time for Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes (Ipomea batata) are a much ballyhooed southern food staple. Valued primarily for their tuberous roots, they also boast an edible leaf. That, however, is not the end of their story. Some cultivars find use strictly as an ornamental. While not the subject of this article, you will typically find these dangling over rock walls or cascading from a hanging basket. While these can be quite impressive, this article will focus on the edible version of this plant, and its nutritional benefits.
UF/IFAS photo: M. Bailey
What Cultivar?
As with any vegetable, these have been heavily bred to optimize growth and yield in our southern environment. In Florida’s Panhandle, ‘Centennial’ and ‘Beauregard’ are two varieties that perform admirably. They have a vining growth habit and are very productive. For those gardeners with less space, ‘Vardaman’ sweet potatoes. This cultivar has a bushy growth habit rather than a trailing vine.
Planting
Sweet potatoes are not planted by seed, but rather from a “slip”. These are the vegetative growth from the mature sweet potatoes. While it is possible to grow these yourself, it is better to utilize certified disease-free slips from a reputable garden supply store. Use slips that are 6 to 9 inches long, planting them in rows 48 to 54 inches on center, with plants spaced 12 inches apart.
Sweet potatoes can be planted in early spring through late June. These plants thrive in sandy soils, which are typical in the Panhandle with very little fertilization (approximately 0.04 lbs. of N on a 10 x 3-foot row). The downside to sweet potatoes is their exceptionally long growth season of 100 to 150 days after planting.
UF/IFAS photo: J. Criss
Pests
There are some pests which you’ll need to be wary when growing sweet potato. Most notably of these is the sweet potato weevil (Cylas formicarius). Even small amounts of damage from this insect can induce sweet potatoes with a foul taste. Control them through cultural practices such as turning your soil several months prior to planting, and adequate irrigation. Wireworms and beetle larvae are also concerns with sweet potatoes. Sample for grubs throughout the growing season, remove vegetation post harvest, and rotating your crops will keep these pests at bay. If all else fails, there are insecticidal options available. Consult your local extension agent to choose the appropriate option.
Sweet potato weevil UF/IFAS Photo: L. Buss
Time to Cure
Post harvest, sweet potatoes should be placed in a dark 85° room with 90% humidity for about two weeks. This is known as curing and will convert some of the starches of this vegetable to sugar making it slightly sweeter. Once the curing process is finished, store them in a cool, dry pantry at temperatures below 50°. This will keep them a viable staple in your pantry for several months.
The end result of all this work will be a food high in vitamin A, vitamin C and fiber that can be used for anything from home fries to pies.
To Sum Up
Growing your own vegetables in your own garden is a very rewarding experience. Sweet potatoes are an easy way to produce a lot of food for your family. If you’d like to know more about growing sweet potato, please consult these document. For more information on this topic or any other horticultural concern please contact your local U/IFAS extension office here.
Summer Veggies That Can Take The Heat
Sweet summer basil thrives in the heat – regular harvesting encourages bushier growth and delays flowering. Photo by Molly Jameson.
As the weather heats up, many spring vegetables begin to bolt, wilt, or shut down entirely. But for gardeners willing to shift gears, summer presents an opportunity to grow a new cast of crops that thrive in high temperatures, intense sun, and even occasional drought. Whether you’re growing in raised beds, in-ground rows, or large containers, these heat-loving vegetables are well-suited to our long summer season in the Panhandle.
Here are some of the best summer veggies to keep your garden productive when the thermometer climbs:
Okra
Okra thrives in the summer heat, producing edible pods just days after flowering. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Okra is a true warm-season crop that thrives in the heat and even tolerates periods of drought. For better germination, soak seeds in water for several hours or overnight before planting. Sow seeds directly into the garden once soil temperatures are at least 65°F and the danger of frost has passed – typically from late March through July. Plant seeds 1 inch deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in rows spaced 3 feet apart. Once seedlings are several inches tall, thin them so the remaining plants are spaced 1.5 to 2 feet apart. Pick pods when they’re two to four inches long, usually within a few days of flowering, to avoid tough, fibrous texture. Regular harvesting encourages more production throughout the summer.
Okra varieties well suited for our area include ‘Clemson Spineless’ and ‘Emerald,’ both known for their productivity and tender pods.
Southern Peas
‘Zipper Cream’ southern peas are heat-tolerant and productive, with easy-to-shell pods and creamy, mild flavor. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Also known as cowpeas or field peas, southern peas are a staple crop across the South for good reason – they tolerate heat, sandy soil, and inconsistent rain. Sow seeds directly in June through August, spacing them about 2 to 4 inches apart in rows 18 to 30 inches apart, depending on the variety. Southern peas are nitrogen fixers, so they can improve soil fertility over time.
Popular southern pea varieties include ‘Pinkeye Purple Hull,’ ‘California Black-eyed,’ ‘Creel Crowder,’ and ‘Zipper Cream.’ These plants are also relatively pest- and disease-resistant, making them a great low-maintenance option.
Sweet Potatoes
Sweet potatoes are grown from slips – vine cuttings taken from sprouted tubers. These slips should be planted after the danger of frost has passed and soil temperatures are consistently above 65°F, typically April through June. Space slips about 12 to 18 inches apart in loose, well-drained soil. While mounding isn’t always necessary, creating raised ridges or planting in raised beds can help promote tuber development and improve drainage, especially in heavier or poorly drained soils. Sweet potatoes require a long growing season – around 90 to 120 days – but they produce abundantly and require minimal care once established. Their vines also form a dense ground cover that suppresses weeds and reduces soil erosion.
Two reliable sweet potato varieties for Florida gardens are ‘Centennial’ and ‘Beauregard,’ both known for their sweet flavor, high yields, and adaptability to southern growing conditions.
Malabar Spinach
Red-stemmed Malabar spinach thrives in summer heat, producing tender, edible leaves on vigorous climbing vines. Photo by Bowonpat, Adobe Stock.
Malabar spinach is not a true spinach, but it provides tender, edible leaves throughout the hot months when traditional greens fail. It grows as a climbing vine, so give it a trellis or support to climb. Sow seeds directly into the garden or transplant young seedlings from mid-April through early June. This plant enjoys both sun and partial shade, and its thick, glossy leaves can be harvested regularly for salads or to thicken soups and stews. Just like regular spinach, frequent picking promotes new growth.
Both red-stemmed and green-stemmed Malabar spinach types are available, with the red-stemmed variety more commonly grown for its ornamental appeal.
Basil
Basil is a heat-tolerant herb that loves full sun and thrives in the warmth of summer. It can be direct-seeded or transplanted once the weather settles into consistent warmth, typically March through May in North Florida. Space plants about 10 to 12 inches apart and harvest often to prevent flowering and promote bushier growth.
In addition to classic sweet basil, try Thai basil or lemon basil for unique flavors that hold up in hot dishes and drinks alike.
Peppers
Habanero plants yield intensely hot peppers with a distinct tropical flavor. Photo by Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org.
Peppers – especially hot varieties – are well-adapted to Florida summers, although they benefit from a bit of afternoon shade during the most intense heat. Start with healthy transplants in spring or early summer, spacing them 18 to 24 inches apart. Keep the soil consistently moist and apply mulch to help retain moisture.
For sweet pepper options, try ‘Corno di Toro’ or ‘Sweet Banana.’ For heat lovers, datils, jalapeños, and habaneros all perform well in warm conditions. Just note that some varieties may slow production during extreme heat, then pick up again as temperatures moderate.
Take a Break with a Cover Crop
If summer gardening starts to feel overwhelming, you don’t have to plant every square foot. Consider giving part of your garden a seasonal rest with a warm-season cover crop like cowpeas, velvet beans, buckwheat, or even sweet potatoes. These vigorous growers help suppress weeds, improve soil structure, and add organic matter – and in the case of legumes like cowpeas and velvet beans, they also fix nitrogen to benefit future crops. Sweet potatoes, while edible, can also serve double duty as a weed-smothering ground cover.
Sweet potato vines form a dense summer ground cover that suppresses weeds and protects the soil. Photo by Janis Piotrowski.
For a lower-maintenance splash of color, consider heat-loving flowers like sunflowers, French marigolds, or zinnias – all of which attract pollinators and beneficial insects while brightening up your garden space.
Don’t let the summer heat bring your garden to a standstill! By choosing vegetables that are naturally adapted to our hot, humid conditions, you can keep your garden thriving and productive all season long.
Watering to Establish a New Lawn
Lawn irrigation spray head running. Credit: Larry Williams
When watering to establish a new lawn or when renovating areas within an older lawn, 2-3 “mists” throughout the day for the first 7-10 days until roots get established is recommended. These are 10-minute bursts. Then back off to once a day for about ½ hour for 7-10 days. Then go to 2-3 times a week for about 7 days. By then your lawn should be established.
Irrigation is not needed when we are getting adequate rainfall. Rain counts. In the absence of sufficient rain, you’ll need to provide enough water at the correct time to allow your new sod to root, hence the above directions.
A well designed and correctly installed irrigation system with a controller, operated correctly, helps to achieve uniform establishment. It can be difficult or impossible and inconvenient and time consuming to uniformly provide sufficient water to establish a lawn with hose-end sprinklers, especially with a sizeable lawn and during dry weather. Most people are not going to do the necessary job of pulling hoses around on a regular basis to result in a well-established lawn.
Too much water will result in rot, diseased roots and failure. Too little water will result in the sod, seedlings, sprigs or plugs drying excessively and failure to establish. The end result, will be a poorly established, sparse lawn with weeds, or complete failure.
There is no substitute or remedy for incorrect irrigation when establishing a new lawn or when renovating an older lawn.
It is risky to invest the required time and money if the new lawn cannot be irrigated correctly. Taking the gamble that adequate (not too much, not too little) rainfall will occur when needed to result in a beautiful, healthy, lush lawn is exactly that, a gamble.
An irrigation system is a good tool to supplement rainfall. As much as possible, learn to operate the irrigation controller using the “Manual” setting. It also is wise and is State law to have a rain shutoff device installed and operating correctly. The rain shutoff device overrides the controller when it is raining or when sufficient rainfall has occurred. A rain shutoff device is inexpensive and easily installed. Also, a rain gauge can be an inexpensive tool to help monitor how much rain you’ve received. Rain counts.
The above schedule should help when planting a lawn from seed, sprigs, plugs or sod.
Once the lawn is rooted, your goal change from establishing a root system to developing a deep, strong rooted lawn. To do this, irrigate to provide ½ to ¾ inch of water on an as needed basis. Here are links to a UF/IFAS video and publication with more info on how to do this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_wn-hwLNtg, https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/LH025.
What’s the buzz about bee flies?
When I walk around the garden every day I take a little inventory of how things are growing, what is flowering, and am always on the lookout for new bugs I haven’t seen before. This past week I was pleasantly surprised by what at first I thought was a bee with a long mouthpart (proboscis), but soon realized it was not a bee at all!
This small, flying insect buzzed up to purple flowers on several plants in my garden. The body was covered in golden hairs with some black showing through giving it that distinctive bee look. The proboscis was so long in proportion to the rest of the insect that it reminded me of the beak on a hummingbird. Still thinking it was a bee of some kind I started trying to get a picture and that is when I saw the telltale antennae and eyes that clued me in that this was not a bee at all, but rather some type of fly.
So, what was this strange looking insect? It is a bee mimic commonly called a bee fly (Bombylius spp.). The bee fly not only looks like a bee, but it takes advantage of native bees to support its young. The female bee fly watches where a ground dwelling solitary bee makes her nest and as she forages for pollen to feed her young the bee fly drops an egg nearby. After hatching the bee fly larva makes its way into the real bee’s nesting chamber and eats the pollen provisions then eats the bee larva. Since solitary ground dwelling bees tend to aggregate in similar suitable locations, I can only guess that the bee fly’s clever disguise prevents it from drawing attention as a threat to the hardworking bee.
For more information about bee flies visit https://www.fs.usda.gov/wildflowers/pollinators/pollinator-of-the-month/bee_flies.shtml
Large eyes and stubby antennae ID this insect as a type of fly. J. McConnell
Bee fly visiting golden dewdrop flower. Photo J_McConnell, UF/IAFS