Do you have a low-growing weed that is producing tufts of white, fluffy, dandelion-like seeds, which float in the wind when disturbed or mowed? This is Annual Trampweed (Facelis retusa). I did not see this weed in North Florida until recent years. It’s native to South America.
Mid-April to early May is the time of year when this winter annual weed goes to seed in North Florida. That’s what it is doing now and it is a prolific seed producer. Each white tuft contains numerous seeds. Each tiny seed is attached to a small individual bristle, coming out of the larger tuft, which is carried by wind. This allows hundreds of seeds to move to other locations.
Trampweed is approaching the end of its life as we move into early May. As a winter annual, the individual weed dies in response to warm temperatures only to leave behind hundreds of seeds that survive the summer. These same seeds come up the following fall to early winter to begin the next generation. The best time to attempt chemical control with an herbicide is well before these weeds mature and begin flowering.
Trampweed in bloom. Credit: Larry Williams
One chemical control option is to apply a lawn preemergence herbicide during October when nighttime temperatures drop to 55° to 60°F for several consecutive nights. This will be just before these winter annual weeds emerge. Done correctly, the application of a preemergence herbicide forms a temporary chemical barrier along the soil surface preventing the winter annual weeds from emerging. Hence the name preemergence.
A second application of preemergence herbicide may be required six to nine weeks after the initial application to achieve season-long control, based on the product’s label directions.
If you miss this narrow window of opportunity to apply a preemergence herbicide, watch for the small young weeds in winter and treat then with a postemergence herbicide that is labelled for use in the type of lawn grass you are growing.
Waiting until trampweed is producing flowers and seeds in April and May to attempt control is almost worthless in controlling this weed. Correct timing is critical.
Trampweed usually is found in areas of a lawn that are already weak and thinning. It favors open, dry, stressed and low-fertility areas of a lawn. So, try to manage your lawn correctly. This involves learning to mow, irrigate and fertilize correctly for the type of lawn grass you are growing.
Sweet potatoes are ideal for filling the gap between summer and fall crops as they have a long growing season. Photo by Janis Piotrowski.
Take the Summer Off, Grow a Cover Crop
As gardeners in the northern states plant and harvest crops until fall, those in the south know that summers can be brutal. In Florida and other areas in the deep south, temperatures can reach triple digits by the summer solstice, and humidity can make it feel like you’re swimming through the air. Pests, from mosquitos to stink bugs, descend quickly, making it no fun to spend hours weeding and watering in the sweltering heat, only to watch your plants struggle to survive. This is why we take advantage of the summer swelter by relaxing with some ice-cold lemonade and enjoying a well-deserved break.
However, while we take a summer gardening hiatus, it’s essential not to leave our soil bare. Fallow soil can become compacted and lose its structure, as there are no roots to create air channels that allow water from frequent summer storms to penetrate the soil. This makes it more challenging for plants to grow in upcoming seasons and can lead to erosion, nutrient depletion, and weed growth. By planting cover crops during the off-season, gardeners can prevent these issues and improve the health of their soil for fall planting. Cover crops offer a multitude of benefits, such as adding nitrogen to the soil, increasing organic matter content, suppressing weeds, breaking pest and disease cycles, and even providing a crop to harvest in the fall.
Fix Nitrogen with Legumes
Cowpea is a summer annual legume that can fix nitrogen, improving soil fertility for fall crops. Photo by Michasia Dowdy, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.
Summer cover crops are a great way to keep your garden healthy and productive during the off-season, and leguminous crops like cowpeas, soybeans, and sunn hemp can add an extra boost to your soil’s fertility. These legumes have a unique ability to form a symbiotic relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the soil, allowing them to convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that plants can use for growth.
Apart from their nitrogen-fixing properties, leguminous cover crops also have deep taproots that can help to break up compacted soil, improve water infiltration, and reduce soil erosion. When planted in dense stands, they can even suppress weed growth, making it easier to maintain your garden’s health.
It’s important to remember to terminate your leguminous cover crops at the bloom stage, as this is when the nitrogen-fixing nodules on the roots are at their peak. By cutting them down at this point, you can help to release the fixed nitrogen back into the soil, where it will be available for future crop use.
Increase Organic Matter with Buckwheat
Buckwheat not only builds organic matter in soil but it also attracts pollinators. Photo by Russ Ottens, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org.
Buckwheat is an ideal summer cover crop for gardens with poor, sandy soil. It is a rapid grower and can produce a large amount of biomass in a short period of time, which can be used to increase soil organic matter content, improving soil structure. The cover crop’s dense, fibrous root system provides ample surface area for nutrient uptake and helps prevents erosion.
Another major benefit of planting buckwheat is its ability to attract beneficial insects, particularly pollinators like bees and butterflies, which can help increase the yield of crops that rely on pollination for fruit set. Additionally, buckwheat is known for attracting predatory wasps, which can help control insect pests. Buckwheat also has the ability to scavenge phosphorus from the soil, making it available for other crops.
To prevent buckwheat from becoming weedy, it is important to terminate it before it goes to seed. This can be achieved by chopping it down when it starts to flower and leaving it to decompose in place.
Suppress Nematodes with Marigolds
French marigolds can help suppress root-knot nematodes. Photo by North Carolina, USDA APHIS PPQ, Bugwood.org.
Nematodes are microscopic, unsegmented roundworms that can be either be free-living or plant parasites. Among them, the plant-parasitic species, such as the root-knot nematodes, can cause severe damage to crops and even lead to their demise. They are difficult to control as they reside underground or inside plants, and nematicides are not easily available to home gardeners.
However, planting cover crops like African or French marigolds before the main crop can significantly reduce nematode populations. These marigolds release alpha-terthienyl, which suppresses not only root-knot nematodes but also other disease-causing organisms.
Apart from marigolds, several other summer cover crops like sunn hemp and velvetbean can also suppress nematodes, especially for root-knot and sting nematode control.
Cover Crops for the Dinner Table
Growing cover crops that serve a dual purpose of providing ground cover during the hottest months and yielding edible produce in the fall is an excellent way to make the most of garden space. Some examples of such crops are sweet potatoes, field peas, and daikon radishes.
Sweet potatoes are ideal for filling the gap between summer and fall crops as they have a long growing season. They have a deep root system that helps break up compacted soil, and their vines provide ground cover, reducing soil erosion. In the fall, their tubers can be harvested after the leaves have died back to make a nutritious and delicious addition to any meal.
Field peas are a versatile crop that not only provide benefits to the soil as nitrogen fixers and ground covers but also offer delicious edible pods if allowed to develop. There are many types of field peas for which to choose, including black-eyed peas, crowder peas, and cream peas. Pods can be harvested in the fall and used to enhance the flavor of stews, salads, and soups.
Daikon radishes are an excellent cover crop that grow deep to break up soil and they have plenty of flavor for the dinner table. Photo by Guodong Liu, UF/IFAS.
Daikon radishes have a deep taproot that can help break up compacted soil, and their foliage can help suppress weed growth. In addition, daikon radishes can be harvested in the fall and can be used in a variety of dishes such as soups, salads, and stir-fries.
Timing is Everything
To make the most of your summer gardening break, plant cover crops as soon as you conclude your spring harvest, typically from late May through early July. Scatter the seeds evenly over the bed and lightly rake them into the soil. It is important to keep the soil moist during the germination period, which typically lasts four to 10 days depending on the crop.
Regular monitoring of your cover crops as they grow is essential to ensure they are terminated at the appropriate time, preventing them from becoming weeds and competing with other crops. Once terminated, you can leave the cover crop residue on the soil surface as a mulch or incorporate it into the soil.
So, this summer, stay cool and let your cover crops take the heat as they improve soil fertility, increase organic matter, prevent erosion, suppress nematodes, reduce weeds, and even provide food for a fall harvest.
Last spring, I attended a seminar at the UF/IFAS North Florida Research and Education Center in Quincy hosted by the Gardening Friends of the Big Bend (GFBB). Brie Arthur was the guest speaker and taught us about foodscaping, gardening with grains, and other traditionally agronomic crops that I had not considered for my landscape. Excited by her presentation I made some purchases at the GFBB plant sale including a small sandwich bag filled with sesame seed. Little did I know this would turn out to be one of my favorite plants last summer!
My first attempt at growing sesame was in a flower bed that received overspray from turf irrigation and about 6 hours of direct sunlight. The plants were small and although they flowered, were nothing to get excited about. Despite this lackluster first attempt, a few weeks later I threw some seed out alongside sunflower seeds in a different bed that receives full sun, no irrigation, and has sandy soil. I watered by hand for about two weeks, if we received no rain, to get the seeds to germinate and seedlings off to a decent start. The foliage that emerged in this bed looked so different from the first batch of sesame that I thought that I had mixed up my seeds. The foliage was wider and the plant was denser compared to my first attempt. I was completely stumped on what I was growing and started sending pictures to colleagues. Nobody knew what I was growing and apps just confused the issue further. Once it bloomed it resembled sesame, but I was still puzzled, so I took lots of photos and sent them to UF Extension Botanist Marc Frank. He confirmed that all these vastly different looking plants were indeed sesame! He advised that the long history of cultivation has led to extreme variability in the species which was certainly on display in my garden. This was a good reminder that the best way to identify plants is with their flowers.
For weeks, the sesame bloomed and was bombarded by bumble bees and other pollinators. To encourage more flowering, I continued to deadhead instead of letting it go to seed. We had summer thunderstorms that knocked it over and it just sent new stems skyward and kept on blooming. The sesame thrived in the harshest part of my garden until winter set in. Since I was growing it for pollinators I kept deadheading and never attempted to harvest seed.
Sesame is very drought tolerant and is sensitive to too much water or humidity, so plant it in a spot with well-drained soil, good air flow, and away from irrigation overspray for best results.
Narrow green leaf variation of sesame plant with white-lavender bell shaped flowers. JMcConnell, UF/IFASBroad leaf variation of sesame. JMcConnell, UF/IFASSesame with broad leaves looked very different than narrow leaf variation. JMcConnell, UF/IFASBumble bees were frequent visitors to sesame flowers throughout the summer. JMcConnell, UF/IFAS
Does your yard have patches of dead grass or areas that look thin and weak? The last two summers of heavy rain and the stress of December’s freezing weather have contributed to widespread outbreaks of Take-All Root Rot, a soil-inhabiting fungus Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis that causes yellow grass patches ranging in diameter from a few inches to more than 15 feet. The symptoms first appear in the spring, but disease can persist all summer and survive the winter. Over time the entire area dies as the root system rots away.
The pathogen is naturally present on warm-season turfgrass roots. High rainfall and stressed turfgrass trigger the disease. Because the roots are affected, they are not able to efficiently obtain water or nutrients from the soil, nor are they able to store the products of photosynthesis, which result in the loss of color in the leaves. By the time the leaf symptoms appear, the pathogen has been active on the roots for several weeks, probably longer; potentially years. If the turfgrass is not stressed, leaf symptoms may never be observed. To confirm the presence of TARR, submit a sample to the UF Pathology Lab.
This disease is very difficult to control once the above-ground symptoms are observed. Measures that prevent or alleviate stress are the best methods for controlling the disease. Any stress (environmental or man-made) placed on the turf weakens it, making it more susceptible to disease. Remember, that every maintenance practice, fertilizer application, and chemical (especially herbicide), application has an impact on turfgrass health.
Cultural practices that impact the level of stress experienced by a lawn include: proper turfgrass species selection; mowing at the correct height; irrigation timing, frequency and volume; fertilizer nitrogen and potassium sources and application quantities; thatch accumulation; and soil compaction issues. The selection of turfgrass species should be based on existing soil pH, sunlight exposure, use of the area and planned maintenance level.
Mower blades must be sharp to avoid tearing of the leaves. Additionally, turfgrasses that are cut below their optimum height become stressed and more susceptible to diseases, especially root rots. When any disease occurs, raise the cutting height. Scalping the grass damages the growing point. Raising the cutting height increases the green plant tissue available for photosynthesis, resulting in more energy for turfgrass growth and subsequent recovery from disease.
The amount of water and the timing of its application can prevent or contribute to disease development. Most fungal pathogens that cause leaf diseases require free water (rainfall, irrigation, dew) on the leaf to initiate the infection process. Irrigating every day for a few minutes is not beneficial for the turfgrass because it does not provide enough water to the root zone, but it is beneficial for turfgrass pathogens. It is always best to irrigate when dew is already present, usually between 2 and 8 a.m., and then only apply enough water to wet the root zone of the turfgrass. If an area of the lawn has an active fungus, washing or blowing off the mower following use will reduce the spread of the disease to unaffected areas.
Excessively high nitrogen fertility contributes to turfgrass diseases. The minimum amount required for the grass species should be applied. Potassium (K) is an important component in the prevention of diseases, because it prevents plant stress. Application of equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium is recommended for turfgrass health. When turfgrass roots are damaged from disease, it is beneficial to apply nutrients in a liquid solution. However, nitrate-nitrogen increases the severity of diseases, so its use should be avoided when possible. Ammonium-containing fertilizers are the preferred nitrogen sources. Heavy liming has also been linked to increases in Take-All Root Rot. Since most turfgrasses can tolerate a range of pH, maintaining soil at 5.5 to 6.0 can suppress the development of the pathogen. When the disease is active, frequent foliar applications of small amounts of nutrients is necessary to keep the turfgrass from declining.
Additional maintenance practices that need to be addressed are thatch removal and reduction of soil compaction. Excessive thatch often causes the mower tires to sink, which can result in scalping and reducing the amount of leaf tissue capable of photosynthesizing. Thatch and compacted soil prevent proper drainage, resulting in areas remaining excessively wet, depriving root systems of oxygen.
Since recovery of Take-All damaged turfgrass is often poor, complete renovation of the lawn may be necessary. Removal of all diseased tissue is advised. As a native, soil-inhabiting pathogen, Take-All-Root-Rot cannot be eliminated. But, suppression of the organism through physical removal followed by proper cultivation of the new sod is critical to the establishment of a new lawn. Turfgrass management practices, not chemicals, offer the best control of the disease.
It is acceptable to use fungicides on a preventative basis while rooting in the sod. Azoxystrobin, fenarimol, myclobutanil, propiconazole, pyraclostrobin, thiophate methyl, and triadimefon are all fungicides that can be utilized to prevent disease development while having to excessively irrigate newly laid sod. Ideally, the turf area should be mowed and irrigated prior to a fungicide application. Unless the product needs to be watered in, do not irrigate for at least 24 hours after a chemical treatment. Do not mow for at least 24 hours, to avoid removal of the product attached to the leaf blades.
Now that we have added another major stress with the recent heavy rain, it will be very important to continue monitoring the turf and being cautious about the cultural practices being used. Take-All Root Rot is likely to flourish. Do not encourage its development.
If the damaged areas are small, it may be possible to encourage turfgrass runners to grow back into the space. Application of 50/50 blends of sphagnum moss and course white sand can be used to top-dress the damage areas. Add no more than 1-inch of the mixture per application. After the stolons have crept into the voids and received a mowing, more top-dressing can be applied. Repeat until the grass stops growing in the fall. Fungicides applied in the spring and fall will help to keep the Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis suppressed.
Article written by Khadejah Scott, Horticulture/Agriculture/Natural Resources Agent – UF/IFAS Extension at Wakulla County.
Gardening for pollinators is not only beneficial for the environment, but it can also be a rewarding and fulfilling hobby. However, living in an apartment can pose a challenge for those who want to create a pollinator-friendly garden. But fear not! With a little bit of creativity and effort, you can still create a welcoming space for pollinators to thrive. Check out these tips to encourage pollinators at your apartment.
Choose Your Location
The balcony is the obvious first choice for your apartment pollinator garden. Alternatively, if your building has a roof, porch, terrace, or courtyard, check to see if you can use those spaces for a few plants.
Assess Your Size And Space
The majority of apartment dwellers value their available space strongly. Finding space for just you and your possessions, much less a garden can be difficult. But even the smallest areas have the potential to turn into green havens with a little imagination. Make sure your space gets adequate sunlight and is close to a source for watering.
Select Your Plant Types
One way to start your garden is by choosing the right plants. Diversity is the key to a good pollinator garden. Because each pollinator has its techniques for sourcing nectar and pollen, flowers should be as varied as the pollinators that visit them. Native plants such as Gaillardia (Gaillardia pulchella) are an excellent option as they provide food and shelter for local pollinators. Together with native plants, you may also grow annual ornamental flowers in smaller gardens that will thrive and provide an excellent source of nectar and pollen, like zinnias (Zinnia elegans), or sunflowers (Helianthus annuus). Another best option is also to use culinary herbs. For instance, basil (Ocimum basilicum) and oregano (Origanum vulgareare) are fantastic nectar sources if you allow them to flower. One creative way to create a pollinator-friendly garden is by incorporating a variety of textures and colors. This can include adding different heights, shapes, and textures to your garden, as well as incorporating a variety of flower colors. You can also choose plants that bloom at different times of the year to ensure a consistent food source. This will attract a wide range of pollinators, including bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds.
Sunflowers can be grown from seed and provide food for birds. Photo: J_McConnell, UF/IFAS
Plant in Containers
Another important aspect to consider is the type of containers you will use for your plants. You can use anything from traditional pots to repurposed containers like old tires or wooden boxes. Just make sure that your containers have proper drainage and are large enough to accommodate your plants. Plants such as swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), Blazing Star (Liatris spp.), and Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta) do well in containers.
Think Vertically
In a small area, vines can significantly expand the habitat that is available by climbing up a trellis or lattice against a wall or fence. Numerous native vines such as the Maypop (Passiflora incarnata) can go in large containers and are excellent sources of nectar and pollen for pollinators.
Include Bird Feeders And Bird Houses
An enjoyable way to observe birds up close and get in touch with nature is using bird feeders. Additionally, they enhance the natural food sources that birds can find near your garden. Bird houses also provide shelter to cavity-nesting species and increase the species of birds at your apartment.
A hummingbird gathering nectar from a firespike (Odontonemastrictum) flower. Photo Credit: Knolllandscapindesign.com
Finally, make sure to supply a source of water for your pollinators. This can be as simple as a shallow dish or bowl filled with water or a small fountain. Just be sure to change the water regularly to prevent mosquito breeding.
Creating a pollinator-friendly garden in an apartment is not only possible but can be an enjoyable and rewarding experience. By following the tips above, you can create a welcoming environment for local pollinators to thrive. For questions about pollinators for apartment living, contact your county UF/IFAS Extension Office.
