by Matt Lollar | Oct 8, 2024
On a recent family walk, I noticed something pretty obvious. One of our neighbors had a broken irrigation head. Luckily this is an easy fix, because a new rotor can just be screwed into place. But seeing the amount of water running into the street got me thinking about some additional ways to save water. Scroll down for some water saving tips based on the 9 Principles for Florida Friendly Landscaping.
Water runoff from a broken irrigation head. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
4 Ways to Save Water
- Pick the right plant for the right place. Turf is an excellent choice for catching runoff in the situation pictured above. However, it’s important to evaluate your yard based on the amount of sunlight received throughout the day. Once you’ve determined if you need sun loving, shade loving, or plants that can handle a little of both, you’ll want to check how well your soil drains. Some plants can handle wet conditions better than others. Use the FFL Plant Guide to help pick the plants for your space.
- Irrigate based on plant requirements. Plants like to be watered thoroughly to the extent of their rootzones. For turf, we recommend irrigating deeply and infrequently early in the morning. This method encourages the roots to grow deep to reach the water needed. Most established trees and shrubs don’t need supplemental irrigation unless we’re going through an extended period of drought. Review the Summary of Turf and Landscape Irrigation Recommendations to help determine the amount of water your yard needs.
- Calibrate the irrigation system. If you have an irrigation system, then you need to make sure it’s calibrated. To do this, you’ll first need to make sure your system doesn’t have any leaks or broken heads and redirect heads to water plants instead of the driveway, sidewalk, or road. Next, you’ll need to determine how long to run your system based on water output. The run time test is detailed on the UF/IFAS Calibrating Your Irrigation System webpage.
- Use mulch around trees and shrubs. Mulch can help hold moisture and conserve water. It’s important to keep mulch to between 2 and 3 inches deep and at least 2 inches away from the base of trees and shrubs. There’s a lot more information on Choosing and Installing Mulches on the Gardening Solutions website.
Following these simple tips will ensure that you’re watering efficiently and effectively. If you have additional questions about irrigation or just about anything plant related, please contact your local UF/IFAS Extension Office.
by Joshua Criss | Oct 4, 2024
Winter color is not always easy to find here in Florida. While staple annuals such as snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) require planning and extra effort in the autumn. Instead, envision a perennial powerhouse that will not only provide colorful berries when the temperature drops but is a pollinator magnet in the spring. The Holly tree (Ilex spp.) perfectly embodies this vision. These low-maintenance evergreens, with their waxy leaves and colorful berries, are a sight to behold in your landscape, whether as a hedge or an accent plant.
Where and How to Plant
Hollies generally prefer partial shade and well-drained soils. However, exceptions exist, such as the Dahoon holly (Ilex cassine), adapted to wetter environments. Whatever cultivar you place in your landscape, following the planting and care instructions is crucial. Plant it in a hole approximately one foot wider than the root ball. Dig deep enough to cover most of the root ball but shallow enough so the uppermost root is slightly above the soil line. This may be counterintuitive, but roots need air to thrive, and shallow planting allows infiltration in the rhizosphere. To regulate soil temperature and soil moisture, add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant. It is critical to leave some space between the tree trunk and mulch.
Photo: Edward Gilman, UF/IFAS.
Cultural Practices for Success
Irrigation is critical to establishing these plants, which should take between 3 and 6 months. Once established, cease irrigation except in drought conditions. Don’t apply too much water in either case, as hollies will suffer with wet feet. Fertilizers should be applied twice yearly in March and September. Have your soil tested before applying fertilizer to ensure a complete nutrient profile.
Pruning is not routinely required with holly trees. It is advisable to remove dead, diseased, and dysfunctional branches. Dysfunctional branches are those that grow back toward the main leader of the tree. These risk rubbing against one another, causing wounds that may become infiltration sites for pathogens. You should also remove sprouts coming from the root zone, commonly called suckers.
Potential Issues
Pests and pathogens are infrequent in hollies and are usually the product of improper growing practices. Occasionally, scale or spittlebug insects can infest the tree. Their presence will be punctuated by the appearance of blackened leaves, which is a symptom of sooty mold. Scouting these plants often will allow early detection and control of these pests. Some pathogens may also affect these trees. Most often, these are fungi caused by excessive moisture. Look for dieback or strange growth patterns in the plant’s foliage. When you see these, make sure the roots are not waterlogged.
Photo: UF/IFAS
Summing Things Up
Hollies are an excellent and low maintenance addition to any landscape. Their berries and flowering patterns provide multiple seasons of interest and are a resource for birds and pollinators alike. For more information on Florida wildflowers, see these Ask IFAS documents, or contact your local extension agent for additional information on this and any topic regarding your gardens and more.
by Joshua Criss | Aug 12, 2024
Managing your soil is easily the most critical task in gardening. Well-managed soils retain water and nutrients, making them available to your plants, thus enabling them to thrive. It may seem daunting, but with a bit of knowledge, you’ll quickly discover that soil management is much simpler than you thought. Soil management can be broken down into two major topics. The first is the physical properties outlined in a previous article, which may be found here. The second, and arguably more complicated of the two, are those chemical properties that drive plant growth.
The What and Why of Soil pH
When considering chemical properties, you first need to look at soil pH. This is the measure of acidity or alkalinity within your soil profile. Innate soil pH is a product of the parent material from which your soil has formed, which tends to be slightly acidic on the Panhandle. Testing is the only accurate way to measure your soil’s pH level and buffering capacity. Your county extension office will be happy to facilitate that testing.
So, why is pH so important to plant growth? You’ll want to manage your soil’s pH for two reasons. The first is that soil acidity greatly influences the form that fertilizers and herbicides take in your landscape. Put into context, if you add fertilizers into the soil with an incorrect pH, that fertilizer may not dissolve in the water present. It will thus be unavailable to your plants. Here is another example of putting the right plant in the right place. Some, such as centipedegrass, thrive in a low-nutrition environment created by a low pH, whereas most vegetable plant species and many other landscape species only want a slightly acidic environment. Placing plants that will grow in the natural pH of your soil is a great way to ensure success in your gardens.
UF/IFAS photo
Ok, you’ve tested your soil and discovered it is not optimal for the plants you want to grow. Fear not, as you can take some actions to adjust your soil’s inherent acidity levels. Keep in mind that any changes will be very localized and are temporary. To raise soil pH, you must apply some version of calcium, colloquially called liming. Your calcium source should be based on soil testing, as different types may also add needed nutrients. Most notably, dolomitic lime will change soil pH while adding magnesium. Soil testing will also tell you to provide the buffering capacity of your soil, which will dictate the amount needed to adjust the soil properly. Soil pH may also be lowered through elemental sulfur additions, but this process is very difficult and may become detrimental to plant growth through repeated application. In this instance, it may be preferable to address via plant selection versus pH adjustment.
How Does Soil Hold Onto Water and Nutrition
The other main consideration for soil chemical properties is cation exchange capacity or CEC. Now, this can be a very complicated topic. Put very simply, it refers to your soil’s ability to retain both water and applied nutrients. It’s important to understand as it holds components critical to plant growth in the root zone of said plants. This happens as there are negative charges on the surfaces of clay particles in your soil that latch onto the positive ions of applied fertilizers.
Photo: University of Georgia Extension
So, what about soils low in clay, such as those in Florida? Organic matter will help in this arena. It mimics clay’s properties and will retain nutrients better than your native soil. However, this is not a pass to add endless amounts of compost, as they come with a nutritive load that must be considered in your garden management plan. Adding 1-3 inches worked into your plant root zone is more than enough when establishing new gardens.
Understanding your soil is critical when gardening anywhere. In Florida, where soils are less than optimal, understanding how water and nutrients are retained and used by your plants will help avoid much frustration. For more information on soil management refer to these IFAS documents, or contact your local extension agent for additional information on this and any topic regarding your gardens and more.
by Abbey Smith | Jul 3, 2024
Rain barrel at the teaching demonstration gardens at the Alachua County Extension Office. Photo Credit: Tyler Jones, UF/IFAS
Water is one of the most valuable natural resources and with the ever growing concern of climate change and the hot dry conditions Northwest Florida has already experienced this summer, every drop counts. One way you could combat this issue is by installing a rain barrel at your home. By having a rain barrel on hand, you can reduce stormwater runoff, potentially save money, and improve the health of your plants. Here’s what you need to know:
What is a rain barrel? A rain barrel is a container or storage tank that collects runoff water from a catchment area (a rooftop). They are typically placed under downspouts and capture the water runoff from your home’s gutters. The type of container used to make a rain barrel could be any type, but it cannot have stored chemicals prior to its use as a rain barrel.
Now that we know the definition, why exactly do people use rain barrels? For one, they aid in water conservation. Rain barrels help reduce the amount of potable water used for outdoor purposes, which is important during dry weather spells and areas known for drought conditions. There are also potential cost savings with using a rain barrel. By using the collected rainwater for watering your garden, cleaning outdoor surfaces, or even washing your car, homeowners could potentially reduce their water bills significantly. Having a rain barrel is also a Florida-Friendly way to gardening. Rain barrel usage co-aligns with the Florida-Friendly Landscaping Principles #2: Water Efficiently and #8: Reduce Stormwater Runoff. The use of rain barrels also aligns with sustainable living. It reduces the reliance on municipal water systems and promotes awareness of water usage and conservation.
To install a rain barrel, you will need to obtain a container or “barrel” that is several gallons large to store the water. You can purchase or make one yourself! It will need a secure lid to prevent debris and insects from getting inside. The barrel will need to be placed under a downspout from your home’s roof gutter systems. The ground will need to be level and the barrel could possibly need to be elevated to make accessing the water easier. Once you have placed the rain barrel in the location you want it, you will need to install a rainwater diverter on your downspout. This will help channel the rainwater into the barrel and can be adjusted once the barrel has become full of water. You will also want to install a spigot near the bottom of the rain barrel to access the water and an overflow valve of some sort. The overflow valve will help redirect excess water away from your foundation when the rain barrel becomes full. Maintenance of a rain barrel is generally very low but you need to check regularly for debris in the water and ensure all the mechanisms are functioning like they should be.
How can you use the water collected in a rain barrel? The most obvious answer would be to water your garden and outdoor plants. Rainwater is perfect for watering the lawn, your flowers, and vegetable gardens. The water quality of collected rainwater is often more beneficial for plants as it is non-chlorinated water. Rainwater is also great for indoor plants too as it decreases the amount of mineral build-up that can occur from using tap water.
By installing a rain barrel at your home, you are taking a small leap with significant environmental impact. It is an easy, cost-effective way to reduce your utility bills, conserve water, and contribute to sustainable living. For more information on rain barrels and how to install one, please visit:
https://ffl.ifas.ufl.edu/ffl-and-you/home-landscapes/diy/rain-barrels/
https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/saving-and-using-rainwater/
https://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/browardco/2019/07/01/florida-friendly-landscaping-adopting-water-conservation-practices-with-rain-barrels/
*This article was written with the aid of ChatGPT AI Services.*
by Daniel J. Leonard | Jul 3, 2024
While the Florida Panhandle isn’t considered a true tropical climate, now that the summer rains have started, it sure feels tropical outside. To create high performing colorful containers in these conditions, it’s wise to pick plants that hail from tropical climes – one of my favorites is Crossandra (Crossandra infundibuliformis).
Native to tropical Sri Lanka and India, Crossandra is built for hot, humid conditions. An evergreen subshrub growing about 3’ tall in its native range, Crossandra sports glowing orange flower clusters held high on stems that rise above deep green, glossy foliage – a very striking combination. These showy orange flowers arrive once temperatures heat up in the early summer and continue emerging en masse until cool nights stop the show in fall. While deadheading spent flowers can enhance Crossandra’s free-flowering nature, I haven’t found it totally necessary to ensure consistent flowering. In addition to being beautiful, Crossandra’s flower clusters are also attractive to a wide variety of pollinators, including butterflies and dragonflies.
Crossandra growing in partial shade on a patio. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
Adding to Crossandra’s appeal, the species couldn’t be easier to grow if you give it the right conditions. Crossandra prefers to be sited in areas that receive ample sunlight but also get a reprieve from the hottest afternoon rays. This year, I grew one on a deck that receives sun from about 10 am – 2 pm and is then provided filtered shade from a large tree the rest of the afternoon; these conditions seem to be ideal. Crossandra performs best in moist, well-drained soil, making potting mix an excellent option. Daily watering in the summer combined with our (hopefully) frequent rainfall in July and August keeps it wilt-free. I also apply slow-release fertilizer at planting and then supplement with liquid fertilizer periodically throughout the summer. This, combined with regular irrigation, promotes healthy, vigorous growth, and allows the flower show to continue uninterrupted until cool weather finally draws the curtains.
Crossandra is a versatile plant in container gardens, shining in either the role of filler in larger containers or as a solo specimen plant in its own container. In mixed containers, play off of Crossandra’s orange flowers with partial sun foliage plants like Coleus, Elephant Ears, or Hawaiian Ti, or flowering annuals like Browallia ‘Endless Illumination’, Torenia (Wishbone Flower), Blue Daze, or Purple Heart Plant. While Crossandra does well in mixed containers, as a UF graduate, I prefer to stick it in my favorite blue pot for an orange and blue Gator themed solo container!
Regardless of how you choose to incorporate Crossandra into your garden’s design, it will reward you with summer-long orange flowers in a low-maintenance package. Simply place it in morning to early afternoon sun, give it ample water and adequate fertilizer, and enjoy this Florida Friendly Landscaping approved species. Plant one today!
For more information about Crossandra or any other horticultural topic, contact your local UF/IFAS County Extension office.
