by Daniel J. Leonard | Jun 5, 2025
The Panhandle’s dreaded summer heat has finally arrived in force and has brought with it one of the most difficult to control lawn/landscape weeds, our annual enemy Doveweed (Murdannia nudiflora). Doveweed is characterized as one of the world’s worst weeds due to its broad range of growing conditions, ability to root along its stems, forming mats as it grows, massive seed production (each plant can produce up to 2,000 seeds per year), and inconspicuous nature – it looks like a grass to the untrained eye. So, what can gardeners do to control Doveweed that’s already up this year and prevent it next summer? Let’s find out.
Doveweed emerging in a bare patch of a Centipedegrass lawn in late May 2025. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
First, the best prevention for all weeds, Doveweed included, is a healthy lawn/landscape. Ensuring healthy, thick Centipedegrass turf and landscaped beds that don’t allow light to hit bare soil goes a long way towards reducing the overall weed load lawns and landscapes can experience. For lawns, this can be achieved through mowing regularly at the proper height for your turfgrass (2.5” or so for Centipedegrass), irrigating no more than 0.75”-1” per week in the absence of rain, limiting stress from overfertilization, and removing excess thatch. In landscapes, preventative weed control focuses on limiting overwatering/fertilization and maintaining a 2-3” organic mulch layer of pinestraw, pine bark, leaves, wood chips, etc. Adopting these practices can greatly reduce the occurrence of weeds in your yard, however they will not eliminate weeds altogether and supplemental chemical weed control is often necessary.
Unlike Crabgrass, Florida Pusley, and other commonly encountered Panhandle annual weeds that emerge when the soil begins to warm in early spring (usually late February-March), Doveweed waits until mid-April-May (soil temperatures of 70-80 degrees F). All these annual weeds are best controlled by preemergent herbicides, like Indaziflam (Specticle G), before seeds germinate. For Doveweed, that means the first preemergent application should occur mid-April with a follow-up application 6-8 weeks later. However, for this year that opportunity is behind us and our only option is post emergent herbicides.
Which postemergent herbicide you choose depends on if your Doveweed issue is in turfgrass or in landscaped beds. In landscaped beds, the primary control option is either hand pulling or spot treating Doveweed with a 41% glyphosate product (Roundup and other generic products) at a rate of 3% (3-4oz glyphosate/gal). As glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide, be sure to not get any overspray on any ornamental plant foliage. In turfgrass, Doveweed control becomes a little more difficult. You essentially have three options – atrazine, a generic 3-way broadleaf product, or a commercial grade broadleaf product. Though it provides very good control of Doveweed and has pre-emergent properties to help discourage future weeds, I don’t prefer atrazine because it has a high potential to leach into groundwater following heavy rains in sandy soils, which describes much of the Panhandle. The generic 3-way products (usually a mix of Dicamba, Mecoprop, and 2,4-D) are fairly effective on Doveweed, however follow-up applications are usually required and the 2-4D component can be harsh on Centipedegrass at the higher label rates required for Doveweed control. Though somewhat expensive, the best post emergent option for most people is probably a commercial grade product like Celsius WG. Celsius WG is a very strong post emergent broadleaf herbicide that is very effective on Doveweed and is also very safe on Centipedegrass, even in hot weather. If the cost of the product (>$100) is off-putting, it is helpful to remember that even at the highest labelled rate, a 10 oz Celsius WG bottle goes a long way, enough to cover several acres of lawn.
* Regardless of what method you choose, be sure to get after emerged Doveweed seedlings early, before they mature and begin flowering – even the strongest post emergent herbicides work better on young weeds.
While Doveweed is a nasty little plant that is perfectly capable of taking over a lawn or landscaped bed, there are a variety of preventative and control options available. Using a combination of the above techniques should help achieve lasting Doveweed controls in future seasons! For more information about Doveweed and other summer annual weed control in lawns and landscapes, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension County office.
by Matt Lollar | May 28, 2025
Gardening just wouldn’t be any fun without the pests. In this episode of Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE!, the hosts answered some very important questions about different types of pests in Florida lawns and landscapes. Before we talk about some of the specific topics from this episode, it’s critical to know the definition of a pest when it pertains to our yards. A pest is any organism that is harmful and/or damaging to humans or the property of humans such as crops and livestock. Weeds are pests, some insects are pests, and diseases are pests.
Integrated Pest Management or IPM for short is the use of different pest management strategies to help control pests. The UF/IFAS Publication Landscape Integrated Pest Management provides more details on the steps involved in a good IPM program.
As stated above, pests can come in a lot of forms. Pesticides offer control for some pests. The article The Basics of Pesticides provides more information on using pesticides.
“Natural” can be a vague term. You’ll want to read the UF/IFAS publication Natural Products for Managing Landscape and Garden Pests in Florida to help clarify the definition of natural pesticides and offer some natural control options.
If you’re growing edible crops, then you’ll need to follow some extra precautions to make sure your crops are safe to eat. A Florida-Friendly Landscaping Approach to Pest Management in Your Edible Landscape provides IPM strategies specific to fruits, vegetables, and herbs utilized in the landscape.
Some annual weeds are easier to control as the germinate. Pre-emergent herbicides provide a barrier that kills most annual weeds shortly after they germinate. Apply pre-emergent herbicides in late winter before day temperatures reach 65°F–70°F for 4 or 5 consecutive days and in the fall when nighttime temperatures drop to 55°F–60°F for several consecutive days.
The first step of IPM is to scout for pests. More information on scouting can be found in the article Scouting: The tip of the IPM spear from Matt Smith with the UF/IFAS Extension in Lake County.
The larva of many beetle species like to eat turfgrass roots. More information on June beetles and their control can be found in the fact sheet June Beetles (White Grubs).
Ground pearls are very difficult to control. The UF/IFAS publication Ground Pearls, Margarodes spp. (Insecta: Hemiptera: Margarodidae offers detailed information of these underground relatives of armored scales.
Snakes usually help us control pests around our homes. If you’re interested in what snake species live in Florida, then you’ll want to read the UF/IFAS publication Managing Conflicts with Wildlife: Living with Snakes.
Chinch bugs are a major insect pest of Saint Augustinegrass. The UF/IFAS publication Southern Chinch Bug, Blissus insularis Barber (Insecta: Hemiptera: Blissidae) provides some valuable information on this insect pest and how to control it.
Fire ants are a direct pest of humans and the create some unsightly mounds in the yard. A number of baits are available on the market to help keep them out of the landscape. The article Sustainable Fire Ant Control offers more details on baits and other fire ant control strategies.
Mole crickets are another type of insect that feed on turfgrass roots. The Mole Cricket IPM Guide for Florida is a great place to start if you’re trying to understand this pest better.
If you’re sticking with an edible landscape theme, then you’ve certainly encountered leaf-footed bugs and stinkbugs on your fruit and vegetable crops. Larry Williams with the UF/IFAS Extension in Okaloosa County has written a very informative article on leaf-footed bugs titled Leaf-footed Bugs Are Common On Tomatoes.
The extension publication Weed Management Guide for Florida Lawns offers a variety of weed management strategies for your yard.
Weed control in plant beds can sometimes be tricky. The UF/IFAS publication Improving Weed Control in Landscape Planting Beds provides solutions for managing weeds around shrubs and ornamentals.
Products containing glyphosate are good for spot spray applications in the landscape, however some people may choose to avoid its use. The UF/IFAS publication Use of Glyphosate and Herbicide Alternatives for Weed Control in Florida Landscape Planting Beds discusses the advantages and disadvantages of using glyphosate and other herbicides.
Pests can wreak havoc on healthy lawns and landscapes. The resources and advice provided in this episode of Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! will help you maintain a beautiful setting to enjoy. To view this episode of Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! please visit our YouTube channel.
by Ian Stone | Nov 21, 2024
Not all trees and woody species are welcome in the landscape. In fact, some woody species can be pesky and problematic and for lack of a better term “weeds”. Despite the fact that some of these species are native trees, bushes, and vines, many can be aggressive and problematic in the home landscape and urban settings. If you have ever cared for a flower bed or garden in the Panhandle, you are probably well acquainted with these and have pulled seedlings and small saplings out of beds, hedges, and seemingly any other nook and cranny of your landscape. If you cut them off using loppers or a saw you also know how aggressively they resprout and how extensive their root system can become. Vegetation grows quickly and often aggressively in our humid sub-tropical climates. If you leave an area of land vacant for very long here, it quickly becomes a thicket in no time. Some of our oaks, particularly water and laurel oaks, can be pesky and troublesome. It seems like I am constantly battling problem oaks in my home landscape, with varying degrees of success. I will pull out, cut out, and apply herbicide only to look up and see a substantial oak sapling rocketing up through azaleas or other hedges. Without fail this is a water or laurel oak nearly 100% of the time, with some other hardwood trees and shrub species thrown in occasionally.
Oak sapling overtaking shrubbery in a local landscape Escambia County, FL Photo Credit: Ian Stone
What is the best way to tackle these pesky woody “weeds” when they cause persistent problems and pop up in undesirable spaces? The answer is to either mechanically removal them or employ very careful and targeted herbicide application. As a professional forester I have spent a large part of my career controlling these brush species using a host of mechanical and herbicide control methods and very well planned prescribed fires. Obviously using large heavy machinery and prescribed fire in urban and suburban settings and landscapes is not an option but using hand tools for mechanical removal and herbicides where needed and best suited is a winning combo for the home landscape.
First you want to determine what species you are dealing with and what stage of development it is in. As I mentioned, water oak and laurel oak are usually the problem oaks we encounter and can reproduce at extremely high rates and create undesirable crowded stands of stunted oak. These species are what foresters call early successional, meaning they tend to establish in forest openings and areas impacted by a disturbance such as a hurricane or windstorm. They produce large amounts of small acorns and grow very fast and they also have poor characteristics where they are susceptible to wind throw and disease. Effectively, they reproduce heavily, grow fast, and die young; that is their natural adaptation and life cycle and what causes them to be pesky and weedy in the home landscape. We don’t realize it, but our home lawns and flower beds create the perfect early successional habitat for these oaks and other brush species such as yaupon holly, titi, wax myrtle, and others. It doesn’t stop there – in heavily shaded areas, very shade tolerant oaks, brush, and vines tend to become established. Vines such as Virginia creeper, greenbriers (Smilax spp.), pepper-vine, and others are particularly annoying as these woody species also love to grow up in fences, particularly chain link, and are difficult to remove.
So what are the best methods to handle problem woody species in the home landscape? The best option is to catch them as seedlings and young plants and pull them up by the roots and all. If you can do this, you will avoid issues with resprouting. If you have larger, more well-established brush and small trees in your landscape, you can cut them back close to the ground, but you are likely to have issues with resprouting. This can be very frustrating and can result in a persistent problem. By consistently cutting these back you may be able to exhaust the plant’s reserve, but this is unlikely. Depending on the size of the root system you may be able to dig up the roots using some elbow grease and a shovel or mattock, but if significant roots are left behind, some woody species can resprout from the remaining roots. This is when simply cutting off the main stem or other mechanical methods often are not sufficient for long term control.
When dealing with well-established woody species with a significant stem size, using a properly labeled and effective herbicide can be a big time and hassle saver. You want to use a herbicide that is labeled for hack and squirt applications and/or cut stump applications. Many brush control and tough brush herbicides are labeled this way and can be applied using these methods. Herbicides with the active ingredients of triclopyr or glyphosate are the most effective for these methods and readily available for home use. Triclopyr products are usually the most effective on tough brush and woody species. Make sure the species you are targeting is listed on the label and follow the label directions exactly for the methods and concentrations to apply the herbicide correctly.
Oak resprouting from stump after herbicide treatment. Note the deformed leaves on the regrowth showing herbicide damage. Photo Credit: Ian Stone
Cut stump and hack and squirt applications require a bit of a different method of application. Instead of spraying foliage, you apply the herbicide into fresh cuts using a squirt bottle or a paint brush. You should wear proper protective equipment when working with any herbicide and this is also listed in the label. Long sleeves and pants along with chemical resistant gloves and eye protection is usually the minimum recommended. For hack and squirt, make a series of connecting cuts in a ring around the problem stem and squirt the herbicide mixture into the fresh cuts using the squirt bottle. For cut stump treatments cut the stem(s) of the problem tree or shrub off slightly above the ground and apply the mixture using a paint brush or squirt bottle, focusing on the outer portion of the stump right next to the bark. These methods work by introducing the herbicide to the cambium layer, which is the actively growing and live tissue just under the bark in woody plants. By doing this it will travel through the tissue and kill both the roots and stems. It is very important that the cuts are fresh, and the application must be made as soon as possible after the cuts are completed. Once the brush is killed back, you can wait for the stem or stump to rot or remove it once it has completely died. This method is effective at controlling resprouting but is not 100% effective on all applications. If the woody plant in question continues to resprout, you can make fresh cuts and reapply. An advantage of this method is it can be done in winter even when the plant is dormant, as it does not rely on foliage to uptake the herbicide. That means you can use it year-round, and you can take advantage of the cooler winter weather to do this labor-intensive work.
With careful work and proper technique, these methods can be beneficial to control persistent brush problems in the home landscape. When using herbicides it is very important to be aware of off target damage to desirable plants. One of the advantages of hack and squirt and cut stump applications is that they are very targeted and minimize issues with off target damage and drift. Care should be taken not to get the herbicide mixture on the stems of desirable shrubs and trees, and they can penetrate the bark and do damage, especially on thin barked species. If you have questions about how to properly use a herbicide or reading the label contact your local extension office.
by Daniel J. Leonard | Oct 4, 2024
It’s hard to have a great yard full of Centipedegrass isn’t it? All the fertilizer, watering, aerating, weed spraying, fungicide spraying, insect spraying, the list is never-ending and wallet draining. Except, it’s not hard and doesn’t have to be expensive. It’s easy. In fact, it’s so easy that people even make it hard because they think it should be. The list of basic tips to achieve a great yard of Centipedegrass is very short, let’s get into it.
Fertilizing Properly – Keep it to a minimum! Centipedegrass has a very low Nitrogen (N) requirement for optimum growth and development (0.4 lbs – 2 lbs/1000 ft 2 per year). Centipede is naturally light green in color and trying to force the deep green of Kentucky Bluegrass upon it will almost certainly do it harm. There are many excellent quality Centipedegrass lawns in the Panhandle that have never received a single prill of fertilizer. Don’t take my word for it though, the UF/IFAS publication Centipedegrass for Florida Lawns says, “Established centipedegrass lawns require about 50% less nitrogen fertilizer than other lawn grasses grown in Florida. Centipedegrass is a low maintenance turfgrass and does not respond well to excessive use of fertilizer, especially nitrogen.”
Centipedegrass lawn that has never been fertilized and mowed regularly when it reaches 3″ to achieve a 2.5″ cut height. Photo courtesy Daniel Leonard.
Timely Mowing – Other than overfertilizing, the next easiest way to cause significant damage to a Centipedegrass lawn is to mow it incorrectly. Centipede prefers a mowing height of around 2.5” and actively growing grass should be mowed every 7-14 days, removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade. In my experience, this is much higher and often less frequent than many people mow their lawns. All too often, I see Centipede lawns that are allowed to grow tall and unkempt and then mowed to near golf course fairway height with the occasional bare “scalped” spot where the mower ran across an unlevel area of lawn. Mowing short and infrequently is harmful because mowing is inherently a major stress to the grass. You’re asking a lot of a plant by removing a large chunk of photosynthetic leaf tissue and then repeatedly asking the plant to regrow. Be kind to your grass and mow correctly. *Additionally, try to not mow your lawn in droughty conditions as this can exacerbate mowing stress and cause serious lawn issues.
Right Plant, Right Place – Much of the bad rap turfgrass receives comes from people trying to force it to grow where it shouldn’t be. If your yard has areas of significant shade or receives significant foot or vehicle traffic, Centipedegrass (or most any grass for that matter) may not be for you, in those areas at least. Like all turfgrasses (though some are more shade and traffic tolerant than others), Centipedegrass does best in full sun and detests having the soil its roots are going in repeatedly trampled and compacted. In areas with those conditions, maybe having a mulched landscaped bed with shade tolerant plants or a rocked walking path would be more appropriate. You and the grass will certainly be happier working with those options than fighting against your site conditions.
Though maintaining a Centipedegrass lawn is simple, that isn’t to say that if you follow all these tips that your yard will be perfect all the time. There will still be the occasional dieback, weed ingression, mole cricket infestation and the like, however, following the above tips will make your grass much more resilient and equipped to handle those stresses. For more information about Centipedegrass or other horticultural topics, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension office. Happy gardening!
by Donna Arnold | Sep 30, 2024
Photo Credit: Danielle S. Williams
Florida is home to at least nine species of insects from the genus Leptoglossus, some of which possess “foliaceous hind tibiae,” but only Leptoglossus phyllopus has earned the common name “leaf-footed bug.” This insect, a close relative of the stink bug, plays a fascinating yet problematic role in gardens. The nymphs are bright orange, while the adults are brown with a distinct flattened, leaf-shaped structure on their hind legs. Unfortunately, both stages of the leaf-footed bug are notorious pests, causing significant damage to buds, flowers, fruits, and seeds.
Photo Credit: Jennifer Carr
These pests feed on a wide variety of plants, including tomatoes, peaches, blueberries, beans, okra, and sunflowers. Their feeding activity can cause yellow and brown spots, misshapen fruits, and shriveled produce, depending on the severity and timing of the infestation.
In the fall, leaf-footed bugs can gather on warm windowsills or home siding. They can sometimes find openings in homes and get inside, but they don’t cause any damage indoors and don’t deposit eggs. Adult leaf-footed bugs also seek shelter in weedy areas or beneath layers of mulch and debris. They lay their eggs in neat rows on the undersides of leaves or along stems, with eggs hatching within 5 to 7 days. The nymphs then mature in approximately 25 to 30 days, leading to a rapid increase in population.
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) strategies are highly effective for controlling leaf-footed bugs. IPM involves a combination of cultural, physical/mechanical, biological, and—when necessary—chemical control methods. Following the IPM triangle approach, gardeners can start with the least harmful methods (like cultural practices) and gradually escalate to chemical controls if needed, depending on the infestation threshold. Early scouting and intervention are crucial to preventing the population from escalating throughout the growing season.
Though there are only a few organic pesticides that effectively manage leaf-footed bugs, proactive steps like hand-picking and reducing overwintering sites can help curb their numbers in the following year. For larger infestations, homeowners might consider using pyrethroids, which should be applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Leaf-footed bugs are also susceptible to insecticidal soaps and other pyrethroid-based products available at most garden retailers.
A word of caution: Some beneficial insects, such as assassin bugs, resemble the orange nymphs of leaf-footed bugs. Be sure to correctly identify these insects to avoid harming species that are beneficial to your garden.
For more information about leaf-footed bugs and effective control measures click on the link below or contact your local Extension office for more details.
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/in229
