by Matt Lollar | Jan 30, 2025
Planting annuals is a great way to add color and texture to the landscape. Annuals can provide an added visual component to the garden regardless of if they’re planted in the ground or in containers, or even better—both. An annual plant completes its life cycle (growing, flowering, seed set, and death) in a single growing season. Annuals can stay in good health and last longer if they are pruned back when they get leggy and by pinching off any fading flowers (deadheading). To help plan your garden beds and container plantings please click below to enlarge the image of the handy “North Florida Annual Planting Guide”. Please note the suggested planted dates in this guide are based on average monthly temperatures, but every year is different. Some years we may have a late frost around Easter, other years we won’t have a cold front after February.
by Abbey Smith | Jan 24, 2025
Snowman in the Garden. Photo Credit: Abbey Smith, UF/IFAS Extension
2025 has already been a year for the books, as Winter Storm Enzo has proven that it really can snow in the Sunshine State. With the fluffy white snow also comes below freezing temperatures, therefore most landscape plants that fit the hardiness zones of Florida are not cold-tolerant or what is also called “cold-hardy.” In the Florida Panhandle, freezes are becoming more prevalent in recent years, so it is best to act ahead of time to protect your patio and landscape plants from feeling the adverse winter affects.
Preparation in Advance
Gardenia bush in the snow. Photo Credit: Abbey Smith, UF/IFAS Extension Jackson County
It is always best to do your research and know what hardiness zone(s) your plants will thrive in. This will help you understand the level of cold tolerance the plant can withstand and will allow you to select cold tolerant varieties that will grow best in the Florida Panhandle. You can find your hardiness zone by using this link: https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/.
Proper care throughout the year will also help your patio and porch plants withstand freezing temperatures; a healthy plant has a better chance of recovering from cold damage than an unmaintained one. A freeze event can usually be spotted in the forecast multiple days in advance, and it is best to be proactive by moving potted plants that would be adversely affected to the indoors or to a warmer sheltered area.
Cold Protection Tips
One of the most effective ways to protect your plants from cold weather is covering them up during the night. Frost cloths can be purchased at most garden stores or through online platforms. If you are unable to buy frost cloths, you can use breathable materials such as old bed sheets or burlap bags that will still allow for air flow to the plant but keep it insulated and warm.
Example of frost cloth protection. Photo Credit: Molly Jameson, UF/IFAS Extension Leon County
You can also use mulch for insulation. Applying a thick layer of mulch around the base of your landscape plants will help insulate the soil to regulate ground temperatures and protect the plant’s root system from cold weather damage. Pine straw or leaves will work best and should be applied in a 3-to-4-inch layer kept away from the base of your stem or trunk of the plant. In some cases, it may be necessary to use an outdoor heat lamp, but always ensure that it is placed away from any flammable materials and only used as needed.
It has been said that using your irrigation at home can be a form of freeze protection. This is typically not effective for a homeowner. When farmers run irrigation to protect their crop, the irrigation systems that are used commercially are designed for scenarios like this. The irrigation must be run for several hours after temperatures rise for this method to work and protect the plants. With a home irrigation system, this is considered water-wasteful and the amount of water a home irrigation system emits can turn into heavy ice quickly, which will damage your plant rather than offer protection.
Cold protection for plants in Northwest Florida is all about preparation. Whether its covering plants, adding mulch to your landscape, or moving your plants indoors, a little effort can go a long way in preventing cold damage. With a bit of TLC, you can keep your landscape and garden beautiful all year long.
For more information please visit:
https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/weather/treating-cold-damaged-plants/
https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/lawns/maintenance-and-care/how-to-help-your-lawn-survive-the-chill/
by Sheila Dunning | Jan 9, 2025
Camellias have been a part of the landscape in the Southeastern United States for over 200 years. They are native to Asia and were introduced near Charleston, South Carolina in 1786. The common name camellia refers to varieties and hybrids of Camellia japonica and to lesser known varieties of C. sasanqua and C. reticulata. The growing conditions in Northwest Florida are well suited for many camellia varieties. Camellias can serve several functions in the landscape including foundation plantings, screens, accent plants, background groupings and hedges. Maximum benefit can be achieved by mass plantings or groupings. Single plants should be focal point in beds rather than randomly placed throughout the lawn. Camellias flower in the fall and winter when their display of colorful blooms is most appreciated. During the remainder of the year their evergreen foliage, interesting shapes and textures, and relatively slow growth make camellias excellent landscape plants. Some camellia growers enjoy competing in flower shows and manipulate the flower buds to achieve larger and earlier flowers. This involves removing competing flower buds and applying gibberellic acid (a plant hormone). Individual cultivars can be selected for size and form ranging from small and irregular to large and upright. Texture and foliage color also differ among the various species and multiple varieties. Midseason flowering varieties that bloom from November through January are best suited for Florida conditions. Warm fall temperatures may prevent early varieties from flowering properly. Late-blooming selections may attempt to send out new leaves before the end of the flowering period which results in “bull
noses”. Bullnosing is characterized by poor quality flowers which do not open fully and may even drop while still tight buds. Extended dry periods while in the bud stage can make the condition more likely. While flowering, camellias need 1 inch of water applied each week. Camellias perform best in partially shaded locations which are enhanced by good drainage and air movement. Fertile, acidic soils high in organic matter are preferred. The soil must be well drained because camellias will not grow in wet areas. Do not plant them in areas with a high water table and/or hard pan. This will result in a shallow root system which is more susceptible to injury during dry periods. Camellias should be installed where cold air can move in and out freely, but the area should be protected from strong northwest winds. Plantings under established trees or in areas that have structures to block the wind are usually injured less by cold temperatures. These conditions enable the plants to gradually thaw or warm in the morning before being exposed to direct sunlight. Dense shade may result in sparse foliage and poor flowering. Camellias exposed to full sun may appear yellow-green, but may yield more flowers. Either situation is stressful to the plants and can lead to pest problems. Tea scale is the most common insect on camellias. Scales generally feed on the underside of leaves and may not be noticed until large populations have developed. Symptoms include very small elongated white and/or brown raised “flakes” on the underside of leaves that turn yellowish in color.
by Sheila Dunning | Nov 6, 2024
Red Maple structure IFAS Photo: Hassing, G.
Though the calendar says November, the weather in Northwest Florida is still producing summer or at least spring-like temperatures. The nice days are wonderful opportunities to accomplish many of those outside landscape chores. But, it is also a good time to start planning for next month’s colder temperatures. Since we don’t experience frozen soil, winter is the best time to transplant hardy trees and shrubs. Deciduous trees establish root systems more quickly while dormant; versus installing them in the spring with all their tender new leaves.
Remove an inch or more for extremely rootbound trees.
Here are a few suggestions for tasks that can be performed this month:
- Plant shade trees, fruit trees, and evergreen shrubs.
- Do major re-shaping of shade trees, if needed, during the winter dormancy.
- Check houseplants for insect pests such as scale, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, whitefly and spider mites.
- Continue to mulch leaves from the lawn. Shred excess leaves and add to planting beds or compost pile.
- Replenish finished compost and mulch in planting beds, preferably before the first freeze.
- Switch sprinkler systems to ‘Manual’ mode for the balance of winter.
- Water thoroughly before a hard freeze to reduce plants’ chances of damage.
- Water lawn and all other plants once every three weeks or so, if supplemental rainfall is less than one inch in a three week period.
- Fertilize pansies and other winter annuals as needed.
- Build protective coverings or moving devices for tender plants before the freeze warming.
- Be sure to clean, sharpen and repair all your garden and lawn tools. Now is also the best time to clean and have your power mower, edger and trimmer serviced.
- Be sure the mower blade is sharpened and balanced as well.
- Provide food and water to the area’s wintering birds.
Mowing a lawn. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS
by Sheila Dunning | Sep 30, 2024
Looking to add something to brighten your landscape this autumn? Firespike (Odontonema strictum) is a prolific fall bloomer with red tubular flowers that are very popular with hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s glossy dark green leaves make an attractive large plant that will grow quite well in dense shade to partial sunlight. In frost-free areas, firespike grows as an evergreen semi-woody shrub, spreads by underground sprouts and enlarges to form a thicket.
Bright red blooms of Firespike
In zones 8 and 9 it usually dies back to the ground in winter and resprouts in spring, producing strikingly beautiful 9-12 inch panicles of crimson flowers beginning at the end of summer and lasting into the winter each year. Firespike is native to open, semi-forested areas of Central America. It has escaped cultivation and become established in disturbed hammocks throughout peninsular Florida, but hasn’t presented an invasive problem. Here in the panhandle, firespike will remain a tender perennial for most locations. It can be grown on a wide range of moderately fertile, sandy soils and is quite drought tolerant. Firespike may be best utilized in the landscape in a mass planting. Plants can be spaced about 2 feet apart to fill in the area quickly. It is one of only a few flowering plants that give good, red color in a partially shaded site. The lovely flowers make firespike an excellent candidate for the cutting garden and is a “must-have” for southern butterfly and hummingbird gardens. Additional plants can be propagated from firespike by division or cuttings. However, white-tailed deer love firespike too, and will eat the leaves, so be prepared to fence it off from “Bambi”.
