Sunflowers, Helianthus spp., are a great choice for gardeners who are looking for some cheerful color in their landscape. Here in Florida, we have the main ingredient for success, lots of sunshine!
Skyscraper Sunflower. Credit: Ray Bodrey, UF/IFAS Extension.
Sunflowers are short-lived annuals. A good average time between planting and bloom is roughly 65 days. You can typically plant sunflowers in Florida beginning in late winter until early fall. Only the coldest months are the issue, and for most years that’s only a couple of months for us. Sunflowers can be planted almost anywhere there is full sun. The major selling point to plant sunflowers is of course the impressive blooms (figure 1). These yellow to sometimes orange or red petaled flowers develop a central seed disc, with most varieties having approximately an 8” diameter in growth.
Skyscraper sunflowers planted in close pattern. Credit: Ray Bodrey, UF/IFAS Extension.
As for planting, you may choose to plant narrow rows and close seed spacing in order to cull less preforming plants later. A final row and seed spacing of 2’-3’ is recommended for full height and development of most varieties. However, you may choose to plant in a bed, using a close pattern as seen in figure 2. In any event, sunflowers are easy to propagate by seed and are very low maintenance. However, powdery mildew and spittle bugs can be a nuisance. A general garden fungicide and insecticide will help if problems occur.
Sunflowers, Helianthus spp. Credit: Ray Bodrey, UF/IFAS Extension.
Sunflowers are available in many varieties, which consists of different color blooms and plant sizes. These sizes range from dwarf (1’-3’) to tall (10’-15’) varieties (figure 2). You may wish to stake taller varieties at some point, as some plants will tend to lean with no wind break in place. Here’s a few gardening variety common names to look for: sunbright, sonja, sunrich lemon or orange and autumn beauty. Seed companies also have mixes available in packets. For tall plants, mammoth or skyscraper varieties exist.
Beach sunflower. Credit: Ralph Mitchell, UF/IFAS Extension.
If you are fond of the sunflower bloom and looking for a groundcover, there are a couple of native perennials that fit this category. Beach sunflower, Helianthus debilis or swamp sunflower, Helianthus angustifolius, are groundcovers/ornamentals for landscapes and thrive in dry, hot climates and in a range of soil types. They also are great pollinator attractors.
For more information, contact your local county extension office. Happy Gardening!
Normally, when one thinks of flowers that can take Florida’s summer heat, Petunia isn’t the first species that comes to mind, certainly not for me. For our northern neighbors, Petunias are one of the most popular summer bedding plants; their warm days and cool summer nights are perfect for Petunias. But, in the deep south, we are forced to grow Petunias in the cool months before the summer heat melts them. However, with the introduction of Wave Petunias back in 1995, the idea of a heat tolerant hybrid Petunia that could extend flowering was born. Then a decade later in 2006, Proven Winners debuted the next evolution of heat tolerant Petunias came along, the ultra-tough Supertunia Series, and disrupted everything we thought we knew about growing Petunias.
Supertunia Vista® Bubblegum® in mid-June 2025. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
There are several sub-series of Supertunia, all are good in my experience, but my favorite and the most resilient to heat is definitely the Vista® series, specifically the cultivar Vista® Bubblegum®. Vista® Bubblegum® is a massively growing Petunia that can spread in excess of 4’ and possesses vivid pink flowers with dark pink veins. Adding to the appeal of Vista Bubblegum is its self-cleaning nature, meaning no deadheading is required and it will flower more or less continuously throughout the life of the plant. However, the most outstanding aspect of the plant is its heat tolerance (for a Petunia). In general, Petunias in the Panhandle are planted in the fall, grow through the *usually* mild winter months, flower in the spring and then begin to languish in the heat of May-June. Vista® Bubblegum® chooses instead to laugh at the heat and mine (planted in early November) are still going strong, unfazed by the heat, in the second week of a very hot July. This plant just won’t quit. Pretty impressive stuff.
Supertunia Vista® Bubblegum® beginning to look a little tired in mid-July 2025 but still going strong! Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
For best results with Vista® Bubblegum® and all other petunias, be sure to site in a location with full sun and keep regularly watered and fertilized, especially if grown in containers, as these prolific bloomers require a lot of energy to support the months-long flower show. Unfortunately, unless you already have Vista® Bubblegum® in your garden, you’ll have to wait until the fall to find more in nurseries, but these plants and its series siblings are well worth the wait! Plant a few this fall and enjoy beautiful color throughout next spring and summer.
For more information on growing petunias or any other horticultural topic, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension County office. Happy gardening!
Beach sunflower is an attractive coastal plant that is well suited for many landscapes. The native plant can thrive in hot and dry spots where other plants may struggle. Learn more about Beach sunflower, Helianthus debilis, and how to use it in your landscape.
Shade is a wonderful feature in the landscape as we move into our summer months. It can also offer an opportunity to include a different palette of beautiful plants the bring color and brighteness to some filtered shade or full shade locations.
Here are a few plants to consider for those low light areas of the yard.
The native oakleaf hydrangea, Hydrangea quercifolia will do well in dappled shade spots. The leaves are attractive on their own but the addition of large flowers make it very showy. This native hydrangea will like a little moisture but soils should be well drained. A little morning sun is fine but afternoon shade is very helpful as the summer months progress.
The old standard Japanese aucuba, Acuba japonica, is a favorite with it’s green leaves speckled with yellow. New growth is damaged by sun so this evergreen shrub is best with a good amount of shade. Be sure to place in a spot with good air circulation to make the environment less conducive to some plant pests.
Each Aucuba leaf has a unique pattern. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
One of the shrimp plants that really needs shade is the White shrimp plant, Justicia betonica. Although this can be damaged in freezing weather, it is worth replanting every spring in a small grouping. Plants are easily started from cuttings and sometimes they will return from roots in the protected shade areas.
White bracts with pink flowers of White shrimp plant. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
An annual that is very showy for shade is related to the shrimp plant. Persian shield, Strobilanthes dyerianus is grown for it’s iridescent purple and silver foliage. It thrives in our heat with a little water when rainfall is lacking. It grows well either planted in the ground or in a container to provide bright color amongst the green foliage plants of your shady spot.
A bit of dappled morning sunlight on the Persian shield leaves. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
Most people know the Cast iron plant, Aspidistra elatior, which is a full shade plant. Plants that receive too much sunlight with have scalding spots. Although green foliage is attractive in summer, consider one of the cultivars with various types of variegation. You may choose a selection with white or yellow stripes through leaves or a plant with lots of white spots throughout green leaves.
Spring and summer bring an explosion of color to gardens, and among the most resilient yet misunderstood flowers are marigolds. Growing up in a small Caribbean town, marigolds were everywhere. Locals called them “Stink and Pretty” or even “graveyard flowers” for their bold scent, but their benefits were undeniable. Whether used in traditional medicine, religious rituals, or tucked into garden beds to keep pests at bay, marigolds have always been more than just a flower.
More Than Just a Bloom
Belonging to the Tagetes genus, marigolds come in a variety of cultivars, each offering unique traits and advantages. Beyond their beauty, they play essential roles in soil conditioning, pest control, especially against nematodes, and companion planting.
A Closer Look at Marigold Varieties
Marigolds fall into distinct categories, each with different growth habits, flower forms, and benefits. The two most common types are Tagetes patula and Tagetes erecta.
French Marigold (Tagetes patula)
Compact and bursting with warm hues of orange, yellow, and mahogany, French marigolds are excellent pest deterrents. Often planted alongside vegetables, they help manage soil nematodes while thriving in borders and containers.
African or Perfection Yellow Marigold (Tagetes erecta)
Despite the name “African,” this species hails from Central America. Taller and more dramatic than French marigolds, it produces large, showy golden blooms ideal for cut flowers and mass plantings.
Signet Marigold (Tagetes tenuifolia)
Delicate foliage, small dainty flowers, and an edible twist—Signet marigolds are a favorite for adding color to salads and attracting pollinators. Plus, their milder scent makes them perfect for gardeners sensitive to stronger fragrances.
A Common Mix-Up
It’s worth noting that while often called “Pot Marigold,” Calendula officinalis is not part of the Tagetes genus. Though it shares similar colors and benefits, calendula is better known for its medicinal properties and edible petals.
Calendula in the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid, Spain. Photo by Jean-Pierre Dalbéra.
Next time you pass a tray of marigolds at a plant sale or see them brightening a garden bed, take a second look. These unassuming blooms do far more than add beauty—they may just be the unsung heroes of your summer garden.
Snapdragon in bloom: Photo credit Donna Arnold FAMU Extension.
Snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) add vibrant color to fall and winter gardens in North Florida with their wide range of hues. Colors include red, orange, yellow, and maroon. Their growth varies; tall varieties reach 2–3 feet, intermediates 1–2 feet, bedding types 6–15 inches, and rock garden hybrids about 6 inches. Dark-colored flowers often have reddish stems, while pale blooms grow on light green stems. Snapdragons’ warm-colored flowers stand out in garden beds, especially when paired with white flowers, enhancing their red, orange, and maroon tones. Their fine-textured foliage contrasts nicely with large-leaved plants and compact shrubs.
Though not native to North America, they are widely cultivated and are not considered invasive. Snapdragons are versatile and ideal for mass plantings, containers, cut flowers, and edging. They are generally available within their hardiness range, making them a popular gardener choice.
Caring for Snapdragons requires minimal work. They thrive in slightly acidic garden soil but struggle in unamended clay. Therefore, ensuring the soil remains acidic is key to their survival. They require full sun and moist soil. After the first bloom, cutting plants back to five or six nodes encourages a second flowering. Also, fertilizing at bud formation improves growth.
You can increase numbers through propagation. Propagation can be done through seeds or cuttings. Seeds germinate in 10–14 days at 70°F and should not be covered with soil. Prechilled seeds germinate best. Pinch seedlings with two to three leaf sets, except for dwarf varieties. Plant in fall for winter blooms in zones 9–11. In zone 8b and south, snapdragons may survive mild winters. Space plants 6–10 inches apart.
Pests and Diseases
Aphids: Feed on young growth, weakening plants.
Greenhouse leaf tier: Chews and webs leave; pesticides are ineffective once leaves roll.
Mites: Cause bronzed, stippled foliage, especially in hot weather.
Common Diseases
Rust: Brown pustules with yellowed leaf tissue; use proper spacing and resistant varieties.
Anthracnose: Causes sunken spots on stems and yellowing leaves; destroys infected plants.
Gray mold: Leads to wilting and stem browning; worsens in wet conditions. Remove infected stalks.
Stem rot: Cottony growth near soil line; infected plants should be removed.
Snapdragons offer rich color, versatility, and seasonal interest in gardens, making them a valuable addition for novice and experienced gardeners.
For more information contact your local extension office or click on the following links.
