by Daniel J. Leonard | Jun 5, 2025
The Panhandle’s dreaded summer heat has finally arrived in force and has brought with it one of the most difficult to control lawn/landscape weeds, our annual enemy Doveweed (Murdannia nudiflora). Doveweed is characterized as one of the world’s worst weeds due to its broad range of growing conditions, ability to root along its stems, forming mats as it grows, massive seed production (each plant can produce up to 2,000 seeds per year), and inconspicuous nature – it looks like a grass to the untrained eye. So, what can gardeners do to control Doveweed that’s already up this year and prevent it next summer? Let’s find out.
Doveweed emerging in a bare patch of a Centipedegrass lawn in late May 2025. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
First, the best prevention for all weeds, Doveweed included, is a healthy lawn/landscape. Ensuring healthy, thick Centipedegrass turf and landscaped beds that don’t allow light to hit bare soil goes a long way towards reducing the overall weed load lawns and landscapes can experience. For lawns, this can be achieved through mowing regularly at the proper height for your turfgrass (2.5” or so for Centipedegrass), irrigating no more than 0.75”-1” per week in the absence of rain, limiting stress from overfertilization, and removing excess thatch. In landscapes, preventative weed control focuses on limiting overwatering/fertilization and maintaining a 2-3” organic mulch layer of pinestraw, pine bark, leaves, wood chips, etc. Adopting these practices can greatly reduce the occurrence of weeds in your yard, however they will not eliminate weeds altogether and supplemental chemical weed control is often necessary.
Unlike Crabgrass, Florida Pusley, and other commonly encountered Panhandle annual weeds that emerge when the soil begins to warm in early spring (usually late February-March), Doveweed waits until mid-April-May (soil temperatures of 70-80 degrees F). All these annual weeds are best controlled by preemergent herbicides, like Indaziflam (Specticle G), before seeds germinate. For Doveweed, that means the first preemergent application should occur mid-April with a follow-up application 6-8 weeks later. However, for this year that opportunity is behind us and our only option is post emergent herbicides.
Which postemergent herbicide you choose depends on if your Doveweed issue is in turfgrass or in landscaped beds. In landscaped beds, the primary control option is either hand pulling or spot treating Doveweed with a 41% glyphosate product (Roundup and other generic products) at a rate of 3% (3-4oz glyphosate/gal). As glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide, be sure to not get any overspray on any ornamental plant foliage. In turfgrass, Doveweed control becomes a little more difficult. You essentially have three options – atrazine, a generic 3-way broadleaf product, or a commercial grade broadleaf product. Though it provides very good control of Doveweed and has pre-emergent properties to help discourage future weeds, I don’t prefer atrazine because it has a high potential to leach into groundwater following heavy rains in sandy soils, which describes much of the Panhandle. The generic 3-way products (usually a mix of Dicamba, Mecoprop, and 2,4-D) are fairly effective on Doveweed, however follow-up applications are usually required and the 2-4D component can be harsh on Centipedegrass at the higher label rates required for Doveweed control. Though somewhat expensive, the best post emergent option for most people is probably a commercial grade product like Celsius WG. Celsius WG is a very strong post emergent broadleaf herbicide that is very effective on Doveweed and is also very safe on Centipedegrass, even in hot weather. If the cost of the product (>$100) is off-putting, it is helpful to remember that even at the highest labelled rate, a 10 oz Celsius WG bottle goes a long way, enough to cover several acres of lawn.
* Regardless of what method you choose, be sure to get after emerged Doveweed seedlings early, before they mature and begin flowering – even the strongest post emergent herbicides work better on young weeds.
While Doveweed is a nasty little plant that is perfectly capable of taking over a lawn or landscaped bed, there are a variety of preventative and control options available. Using a combination of the above techniques should help achieve lasting Doveweed controls in future seasons! For more information about Doveweed and other summer annual weed control in lawns and landscapes, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension County office.
by Ray Bodrey | Dec 5, 2024
It’s getting close to that time of year again! You may be the giver or receiver of a wonderful holiday plant soon. Dish gardens, potted flowering plants (such as azalea, begonia, poinsettia, or chrysanthemum), plants with attractive foliage, and even patio citrus make great gifts. However, special care is needed to keep them healthy throughout the holiday season and beyond!
For plants intended to be “house plants”, over watering, over fertilizing and poor placement are the most common problems encountered by caretakers. The first thing you need to keep in mind about gift plants is that most of them have been growing in a carefully controlled greenhouse environment for some time. These types of plants are acclimated to a specific temperature & humidity level. Therefore, they’re sensitive. When they’re moved into your home atmosphere, they typically go into a level of shock. If you received a gift plant, you’ll have to help it overcome this shock by paying careful attention to the important factors- light, temperature, water, and fertilization.
House Plants & Indoor Garden Examples Credit: UF/lFAS Communications
Indoor areas often restrict light and provide very low humidity. Plants with dense foliage prefer light, but not continuous direct light all day. Placing a plant near a window or near light fixtures should suffice for photosynthesis requirements. However, flowering plants such as mums and poinsettias will stand more light than most foliage plants and should be placed in very bright areas. Most indoor plants grow well in temperatures of 60 to 70 degrees. Be careful to not place plants in drafty locations where sudden changes in temperature occur. Also, don’t place plants close to radiators or air conditioner vents/returns. These areas typically dry soil excessively and could cause plants to wilt.
Watering is one of the major causes of failure with plants in the home, especially for containers which don’t have drainage holes. Most house plants will require a thorough soaking once a week. Water only when necessary and don’t let the pots stand in saucers of water unless the plants are very tolerant to excess water. Overwatering can kill plant roots, increase chances of disease, and eventually kill the entire plant.
Proper fertilization is another important part of growing healthy plants. Fertilizer labeled for house plants or 10-10-10 are good, general-purpose, complete fertilizers to use. Always follow all the directions on the bag or container, so that you don’t over fertilize, causing the plant’s demise.
Following these basic practices to keep house plants healthy should keep your gift plant looking attractive for the remainder of the holiday season and beyond.
For more information on house plants, please visit:
https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/
https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/houseplants/indoor-gardens/
or contact your local county extension office for more information.
by Sheila Dunning | Nov 6, 2024
Red Maple structure IFAS Photo: Hassing, G.
Though the calendar says November, the weather in Northwest Florida is still producing summer or at least spring-like temperatures. The nice days are wonderful opportunities to accomplish many of those outside landscape chores. But, it is also a good time to start planning for next month’s colder temperatures. Since we don’t experience frozen soil, winter is the best time to transplant hardy trees and shrubs. Deciduous trees establish root systems more quickly while dormant; versus installing them in the spring with all their tender new leaves.
Remove an inch or more for extremely rootbound trees.
Here are a few suggestions for tasks that can be performed this month:
- Plant shade trees, fruit trees, and evergreen shrubs.
- Do major re-shaping of shade trees, if needed, during the winter dormancy.
- Check houseplants for insect pests such as scale, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, whitefly and spider mites.
- Continue to mulch leaves from the lawn. Shred excess leaves and add to planting beds or compost pile.
- Replenish finished compost and mulch in planting beds, preferably before the first freeze.
- Switch sprinkler systems to ‘Manual’ mode for the balance of winter.
- Water thoroughly before a hard freeze to reduce plants’ chances of damage.
- Water lawn and all other plants once every three weeks or so, if supplemental rainfall is less than one inch in a three week period.
- Fertilize pansies and other winter annuals as needed.
- Build protective coverings or moving devices for tender plants before the freeze warming.
- Be sure to clean, sharpen and repair all your garden and lawn tools. Now is also the best time to clean and have your power mower, edger and trimmer serviced.
- Be sure the mower blade is sharpened and balanced as well.
- Provide food and water to the area’s wintering birds.
Mowing a lawn. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS
by Larry Williams | Oct 31, 2024
So far, our fall has been unusually dry with warmer temperatures. Even though our average annual rainfall is around sixty-two inches per year, we don’t always receive rain exactly when we need it. There are times when we need to apply additional water. During dry weather, employ the following water management practices to improve the water efficiency of your lawn and landscape.
Mulching helps conserve water. On bare ground, about sixty percent of the water can be lost through evaporation. A two to three-inch layer of mulch will help hold onto the water so the plants can use it. Try to mulch the entire root zone when possible or at least apply mulch all the way around the plants out to the end of the branches.
Irrigate on as needed basis during dry periods. Credit: Larry Williams
When watering, a thorough soaking to wet the soil to a depth of six to eight inches is much better for plants than light, frequent watering. Three to five gallons of water applied to one spot under the canopy of trees or shrubs should thoroughly saturate the root zone in that location. During dry periods, as a general rule), twenty-five percent of the root system, when watered thoroughly, can absorb all the water a plant requires at any given time.
When watering lawns, apply one inch of water per week when we are not getting rain. Although many sprinklers have irrigation rates of ¼ inch per hour, some may apply up to one inch per hour. Measure your irrigation rate and uniformity by placing several open-top containers of the same size under the sprinkler and see how long it takes to apply a known amount of water such as ½ inch.
An efficient irrigation program on turf should not begin until the lawn grass shows signs of moisture stress. Symptoms include a dull and bluish-green color and leaf blades folding. The most efficient time to irrigate is between sunset and sunrise because of less evaporation, less wind and lower temperatures. Early morning is the next most effective time to irrigate while midday is the least efficient.
Avoid fertilizing drought-stressed plants. Fertilizers are chemical salts and will dehydrate roots when water is in short supply. If you need to apply a pesticide, make certain the plant is not wilted at the time and spray during early morning or late afternoon. You should also avoid unnecessary pruning of plants during drought. Pruning encourages new growth, which has a high demand for water.
For more information on watering efficiently and drought tolerant plants, contact the UF/IFAS Extension Office in your county or visit the following website: http://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/care/irrigation.
by Beth Bolles | Oct 24, 2024
If you love wildflowers, the Fall season has so many plants for you to enjoy. We often think of wildflowers as those in natural settings, on roadsides, or in drainage spots. Here are a few wildflowers that make excellent landscape additions.
Goldenrods (Solidago spp.) are everywhere and the yellow blooms are stunning. If all the incorrect information about goldenrod as an allergy causing plant never existed (ragweed is the main culprit), we would see selections of goldenrod available in every commercial outlet. Many selections have an upright growth so add goldenrod against fences, in back of borders, or large clumps in sunny areas of your landscape.
Goldenrod as a landscape feature at Escambia Demonstration Garden. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
If you have a moist area and love purple, Mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum) makes a wonderful fall blooming feature. Plants will colonize an area with running stems so it tends to form a large clump in moist soils. You may notice this in ditches on a drive around your county. The clusters of flowers look fluffy and will be present for many weeks in both full sun or partial shade.
A clump of mistflower in a moist plant bed. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
For dry and well drained spots of your landscape, the Woody goldenrod (Chrysoma pauciflosculosa) is a good choice. The small shrub offers bright yellow fall flowers that extend above a 2 foot tall plant. Plants tend to be evergreen when in the right location and additional new seedlings will emerge each spring if your landscape is suited for this plant.
Woody goldenrod in a home landscape. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
For those enhancing a butterfly garden, add Purple false foxglove (Agalinis purpurea), a host plant to the Buckeye butterfly. Plants grow well in our acidic well drained soils with a little moisture. Numerous tubular pink flowers occur in the Fall until a frost. Plants reseed well.
The Purple False Foxglove with vivid pink blooms in a natural setting. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF IFAS Extension Escambia County
If you love all the colors and variety of wildflowers, it is a good time for finding seeds and plants to grow your own. Native nurseries and online retailers carry a wide selection for all seasons and many are low maintenance enhancements for our home landscapes. Like any other ornamental or grass, be sure to match the wildflower with your specific growing conditions.
by Muhammad Shahid | Oct 17, 2024
Persimmon harvesting, ripening, and preservation strategies
Persimmons fruits are renowned for their delicious, sweet taste, making them incredibly tasty and nutritious. They are native to China but have spread worldwide, especially in temperate and subtropical climates. These fruits have been cultivated for thousands of years, primarily for their sweet flesh, which varies in texture from firm to custard-like, depending on the variety and level of ripeness. Persimmons are a rich source of vitamins, particularly vitamins A, C, and E. They also contain dietary fiber, which is beneficial for digestive health. They also have anti-inflammatory properties and reduce the risk of chronic diseases like heart disease and cancer.
Astringent vs non-astringent varieties
There are two main types of persimmons: the astringent and non-astringent varieties. Astringent persimmons, like Hachiya and Tanenashi, are high in tannins and must be fully ripened before consumption to avoid an unpleasant taste. The water-soluble tannins give the fruit astringency, making it inedible until it grows soft and ripe. Therefore, ripening for these varieties is essential to enable the tannins to disintegrate, allowing the fruit to taste as sweet and rich as it deserves. On the other hand, non-astringent persimmons, such as Fuyu and Jiro, are sweeter and can be consumed even when they are still firm. These varieties have low or no tannin content, and hence, they can be consumed raw and crispy without the dry mouth effect of other more stringent types (Figure 1).
Japanese persimmon fruit: non-astringent variety ‘Fuyu’ (left) and astringent variety ‘Tanenashi’ (right).
Ripening and harvesting the persimmon
Determining the ripening of persimmons depends on the variety. Astringent varieties should be completely soft and jelly-like before they are harvested, while non-astringent varieties can be picked when they are still firm but have reached their full orange color. Persimmons are typically harvested by hand to avoid damaging the delicate fruit. Using pruning shears or scissors, cut the fruit off the tree, retaining a small part of the stem to prevent skin tearing. This method helps in prolonging the shelf life of the fruit.
Methods to speed up the ripening process
Cool temperatures: Keep persimmons cool and leave them in one layer on the countertop. They will ripen in several days to a week and become ready for consumption. The indicators include changes in skin color to deep orange, and the fruit feels almost like jelly when pressed on; it is prepared to eat. If parts of the fruit are slightly bruised or get spots, the fruit is still in the ripening process.
Keep persimmon fruit stored with high ethylene fruits: Ethylene is a natural plant hormone used to promote fruit ripening. You can quicken the ripening process, especially for astringent varieties, by harnessing the power of ethylene by placing the fruit in a brown bag with other fruits like apples or bananas that produce more ethylene. The enclosed space inside the bag retains the ethylene gas, enhancing the tannin deterioration in the persimmons. Use the following steps: Use a clean paper bag, place 3-4 persimmons with one apple or banana inside the bag, then close it and let it stay warm. The persimmons should be checked daily in order not to over ripen. They should soften in 2-3 days, depending on how hard they were.
Freezing: Freezing is another method to reduce astringency. Freeze the unripe astringent persimmons for about one day or until you feel they are already sufficiently chilled. When the fruit thaws, it will have softened greatly and will not be as astringent because the freezing helped eliminate tannins. This method does not allow the fruit to ripen in the usual sense of the word but can quickly turn the persimmons into a palatable state. When frozen, the fruit becomes soft, slightly brown, and tender, so this method would be better served if one wanted to use the persimmon for baking or making purees.
Preservation and storage
Preserving persimmons is key to enjoying their unique flavor and texture long after the harvest season. Persimmons, particularly astringent varieties, have a short shelf life once they ripen, so proper preservation strategies are essential for extending their usability and minimizing waste. Here are some practical methods for preserving persimmons:
- Persimmons should be stored at 50 degrees F (10 degrees C) for optimal preservation
- Use a transparent plastic bag with holes in it or a container with some holes on its surface. This will help prevent moisture accumulation, which, if left for some time, leads to mold growth on the container walls.
- Do not place persimmons in a tight, covered container, as they require ventilation to prevent mold growth.
- Use a mesh bag or a basket with a clean cloth that will allow air to circulate while at the same time keeping the fruit from developing bruises.
- The refrigerated persimmons can last up to 2 months. Examine them often for signs of spoilage, such as softness and mold formation.
- Frozen persimmons can be kept for up to 6 months.
Dr. Muhmmad A. Shahid, UF/IFAS NFREC, Assistant Professor of Horticulture
Dr. Shahid Iqbal, UF/IFAS NFREC, Postdoc Scholar, Horticulture Sciences
Dr. Muhammad Nadeem, UF/IFAS NFREC, Postdoc Scholar, Horticulture Sciences
