by Julie McConnell | Feb 10, 2015
When talking about pest issues in the landscape, green industry professionals often refer to IPM or Integrated Pest Management.
Chinch bug damage to St. Augustinegrass. Photo: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
So what is IPM and why should it be used?
IPM is a combination of methods used to manage pests that has the least harmful effect on non-target organisms and the environment. The four categories of IPM are:
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cultural practices
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biological control
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mechanical/physical
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chemical control
There is not one perfect IPM plan for all landscape situations, but there are some key components to help develop one for any situation.
- Prevent pest problems – choose the Right Plant for the Right Place! Proper planting technique, choosing resistant cultivars, and good maintenance all contribute to overall health and can influence how likely plants are to survive disease, insect, or weed invasions.
- Scout for pests/damage – understand what pests are likely to target common landscape plants. For example, St. Augustinegrass is susceptible to attack by chinch bugs; know what to look for to spot an infestation early.
- Accurately identify the pest – it’s okay to ask for help with this! Your county extension office is a great place to start for both identification and control recommendations. Many times treatments are applied for the wrong pest and that is a waste of your time and money and it can make it harder to get a correct diagnosis.
- Follow control action guidelines – have a plan in place for threshold tolerance. How many pests/amount of damage is okay before
Chinch bug nymph. Photo: Julie McConnell, UF/IFAS
action is taken? What action will you take? Use least toxic methods first and combine the four methods listed above. If using chemicals, know how they work (mode of action) and be sure to rotate properly to prevent resistance.
- Evaluate and revise – continued scouting for pests will indicate if the method is working. Keep records so that you can make changes that will increase effectiveness.
If you are interested in learning more about Integrated Pest Management, visit the IPM Florida website .
by Carrie Stevenson | Sep 30, 2014
Last week, the Okaloosa County Health Department issued a rabies alert after three bats were determined to have the illness. A “drive-through” rabies vaccine clinic was organized for pets, and warnings were issued throughout the region about making contact with wild animals. One radio broadcast played an interview in which a health department staffer urged people “not to attract wildlife to your yard.” While they were focusing on unsecured trash and pet food, I found this advice unsettling, for as an Extension Agent I’ve promoted the practice of attracting wildlife to yards for many years—birds, butterflies, and even (especially) bats. Raccoons, not bats, have the greatest incidence of rabies (based on data collected from 1992-2011), by a factor of almost seven times that of bats. In the scare of a rabies outbreak, it can be easy to overreact or overlook the many benefits that wildlife provide to our neighborhoods.
There are, of course, practical ways to go about living with wildlife without endangering your health or that of your family and pets (including making sure pets have the rabies vaccine).
Use Caution around Injured Wildlife
Most wildlife rescue organizations do not have the staff to pick up injured animals and ask those who find one to bring them in. However, sick or injured animals may respond aggressively as an intuitive protective measure. If you are taking an animal to a wildlife rehabilitator, be sure to approach it gently and use a blanket or large towel to pick up the animal, and place it gently in a box with a ventilated lid. Great information on responding to injured or deserted animals can be found at the Wildlife Sanctuary of Northwest Florida website. Keep in mind that bats are flying animals and spend almost no time on the ground. They do not chase people and are primarily concerned with catching insect prey. If you find a bat on the ground, it is most likely sick. County animal control or private wildlife responders can also help if you are concerned about interacting with a sick animal.
These twin Seminole bat pups were found on the ground with their mother and nursed back to health at the Wildlife Sanctuary of Northwest Florida. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
Use Care When Retrieving Dead Animals
When bird flu, West Nile or rabies hits an area, health departments sometimes ask that suspect animals be reported for testing to confirm the cause of death. Even if you are just disposing of the animal, be sure to use gloves and place the animal in a sealable plastic bag to prevent spreading germs, and wash your hands after handling it. If burying, place at least three feet deep and away from wells or water sources.
Enjoy Wildlife from a Distance
Disturbing healthy animals while they are feeding or resting can cause unnecessary stress and reduce their hunting success. Animals’ natural behaviors are fascinating to watch, so be sure and do so from a respectful distance to allow them to interact normally with their environment.
by Matthew Orwat | Aug 4, 2014
Holly leaf infected with Phyllosticta. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
Phyllosticta lesion on holly leaf. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
The high humidity experienced in the Florida Panhandle during July and August has provided perfect conditions for fungal disease development on the leaves of a variety of ornamental species. One particularly noticeable pathogen is Phyllosticta. Fungi of the Phyllosticta spp. often cause large brown lesions on ornamental shrubs and trees such as magnolia, holly, Indian hawthorn, maple, crape myrtle and others. This dark to light brown spots are bordered with maroon, black or yellow rings, dividing the living and dead tissue. Black fruiting bodies, about the size of a pinpoint, are often spread throughout the diseased areas of the leaf. Infected portions of the leaf often drop out, leaving ragged remnants on formerly attractive shrubs.
Although preventative fungicides have been shown to reduce disease incidence, infected plants cannot be cured by sprays. Several mechanical strategies should be put into practice to reduce disease re-occurrence.
- Sanitation: Removal of leaf litter – Dead, diseased leaves contain the fruiting bodies, which will produce new fungal spores if left in the garden
- Thinning of branches – areas with poor air circulation are more prone to Phyllosticta
- Drip irrigation – overhead irrigation enhances the spread of a variety of fungal diseases. If overhead irrigation must be used, it should be done between 5 – 10 a.m.
For additional information about this and other disease, please go to the UF/IFAS U-Scout disease ID site.
Early statge Phyllosticta. Image Credit Matthew Orwat
by Matthew Orwat | Jul 8, 2014
Cedar-Apple rust or Cedar-Quince rust (Gymnosporangium) symptoms on pear fruit. Image Credit Shep Eubanks, UF IFAS.
This is the season for fruit harvesting, particularly for those fruits in the rose family such as plum, quince, peach, pear and apple. Many avid home horticulturists have been enjoying the fruits of their labor, but some have been thwarted by an unlikely and ugly disease.
This fungal disorder, commonly called cedar-apple rust and caused by various species of Gymnosporangium, has the potential to ruin Quince, Pear and Apple crops in gardens throughout Northwest Florida. Early scouting and vigilance will pay off.
This condition begins on native juniper species (known as cedars). A spore producing gall forms on the branches of the cedar tree, which begin to produce spores during wet weather. Spores, once produced, can travel up to a mile via wind. If spores land on susceptible plant tissue when a film of water is present, it will germinate and infect the fruit, twig or leaf. Although black spots develop on the plant with in 7-10 days of infection, orange tubes called aecia won’t develop until 4 or more weeks after infection. Next, spores are released from the aecia located on the fruit tree and travel to infect new juniper plants . The infected junipers will not show symptoms until the next growing season but they can manifest as galls or orange ooze present under bark. Different species of Gymnosporangium will infect trees differently. Some live only for one year while others, known as ceder-quince rusts, can last up to 20 years. Twigs infected with this disease usually die within several years of infection.
Ceder-Apple Rust on infected juniper host species. Image Credit Hank Dankers UF IFAS.
Although this may seem like an impossible situation, several control strategies exist.
- Remove Infected branches: Removal of infected plant tissue will reduce the spread of the disease in your garden.
- Removal of infected juniper host species: If the juniper or “cedar” in your landscape is something you can sacrifice, removal is warranted in cases of heavy infection.
- Avoid planting susceptible species of juniper next to susceptible fruit tree species.
- Treatment of fruit trees with fungicide: Preventative fungicidal sprays of products containing the active ingredients of sulfur, captan, chlorothalonil, or mancozeb and similar products can be effective. They will not cure existing conditions but are useful if you know that rusts are present in your area. Please read all pesticide labels before application, since there are pre-harvest limitations present on some products.
For additional information, please consult you local county extension office or review these publications by UF IFAS specialists (Florida Plant Disease Management Guide) and the Missouri Botanical Garden.
by Eddie Powell | Jul 1, 2014
Tomato spotted wilt on leaves
Photo Credits: IFAS
Tomato Spotted Wilt on Fruit
Photo Credit: IFAS
The spotted wilt virus has a wide host range and can affect tomatoes, peppers, plus many other vegetables and ornamental plants. Early symptoms of spotted wilt on tomato are difficult to diagnose. Young, infected plants may show an inward cupping of leaves, and the foliage may appear light color or have a slight bronze cast. As the disease progresses, plants may develop dark brown to black streaks on the main stem. Occasionally the top portion of the plant appears yellow or wilts.
The most characteristic symptom of spotted wilt appears on the fruit. On young fruit white to yellow concentric rings will develop on the fruit skin. The area within the ring typically is raised, which gives the fruit a bumpy appearance. The bright yellow rings on mature red fruit are easily diagnosed as spotted wilt.
The spotted wilt virus is transmitted from plant to plant by several species of a small insect called a thrips. Thrips are less than ¼ inch in length, light green to brown in color and are extremely difficult to find on the plants. It is very important to keep the weeds around the garden controlled because many weedy plants serve as alternate hosts for the virus vectors.
Virus diseases cannot be controlled once the plant is infected. So plant resistant varieties*! Sanitation will help with controlling virus diseases. Infected plants should be removed immediately to prevent spread of the pathogens. Perennial weeds, which may serve as alternate hosts, should be controlled in and adjacent to the garden. Avoid planting tomatoes next to peppers, or other vegetables and flowers susceptible to these diseases. Preventative control of insects, especially thrips, will help reduce the likelihood of spotted wilt.
*BHN 602, Amelia, Crista, Quincy, Bella Rosa, Top Gun, Fletcher, Mountain
by Eddie Powell | Jun 3, 2014
During this growing season monitor your plants and keep them healthy as a healthy plant will be able to better survive an invader attack.
Nematode populations can be reduced temporarily by soil solarization. It is a technique that uses the sun’s heat to kill the soil-borne pests. Adding organic matter to the soil will help reduce nematode populations as well. Nematodes are microscopic worms that attack vegetable roots and reduce growth and yield. The organic matter will also improve water holding capacity and increase nutrient content.
Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
Credits: UF/IFAS
If you choose to use pesticides, please follow pesticide label directions carefully. Learn to properly identify garden pests and use chemicals only when a serious pest problem exists. If you have questions please call your UF/IFAS county extension office. We can provide helpful information about insect identification.
Organic gardeners can use certain products like BT(Dipel) to control pests. Please remember not every off-the-shelf pesticide can be used on every crop. So be sure the vegetable you want to treat is on the label before purchasing the product.
Follow label directions for measuring, mixing and pay attention to any pre-harvest interval warning. That is the time that must elapse between application of the pesticide and harvest. For example, broccoli sprayed with carbaryl (Sevin) should not be harvested for two weeks.
Spray the plant thoroughly, covering both the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Do not apply pesticides on windy days. Follow all safety precautions on the label, keep others and pets out of the area until sprays have dried. Apply insecticides late in the afternoon or in the early evening when bees and other pollinators are less active. Products like malathion, carbaryl and pyrethroids are especially harmful to bees.
To reduce spray burn, make sure the plants are not under moisture stress. Water if necessary and let leaves dry before spraying. Avoid using soaps and oils when the weather is very hot, because this can cause leaf burn.
Control slugs with products containing iron phosphate.
Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Credits: UF/IFAS
Many common diseases can be controlled with sprays like chlorothalonil, maneb, or mancozeb fungicide. Powdery mildews can be controlled with triadimefon, myclobutanil, sulfur, or horticultural oils. Rust can be controlled with sulfur, propiconazole, ortebuconazole. Sprays are generally more effective than dusts.
