Fruit Rusts Ruin Harvests

Fruit Rusts Ruin Harvests

Cedar-Apple rust or Cedar-Quince rust ( Gymnosporangium) symptoms on pear fruit

Cedar-Apple rust or Cedar-Quince rust (Gymnosporangium) symptoms on pear fruit. Image Credit Shep Eubanks, UF IFAS.

This is the season for fruit harvesting, particularly for those fruits in the rose family such as plum, quince, peach, pear and apple. Many avid home horticulturists have been enjoying the fruits of their labor, but some have been thwarted by an unlikely and ugly disease.

This fungal disorder, commonly called cedar-apple rust and caused by various species of Gymnosporangium, has the potential to ruin Quince, Pear and Apple crops in gardens throughout Northwest Florida. Early scouting and vigilance will pay off.

This condition begins on native juniper species (known as cedars). A spore producing gall forms on the branches of the cedar tree, which begin to produce spores during wet weather. Spores, once produced, can travel up to a mile via wind. If spores land on susceptible plant tissue when a film of water is present, it will germinate and infect the fruit, twig or leaf. Although black spots develop on the plant with in 7-10 days of infection, orange tubes called aecia won’t develop until 4 or more weeks after infection. Next, spores are released from the aecia located on the fruit tree and travel to infect new juniper plants . The infected junipers will not show symptoms until the next growing season but they can manifest as galls or orange ooze present under bark. Different species of Gymnosporangium will infect trees differently. Some live only for one year while others, known as ceder-quince rusts, can last up to 20 years. Twigs infected with this disease usually die within several years of infection.

Ceder-Apple Rust on infected juniper host species. Image Credit Hank Dankers UF IFAS.

Ceder-Apple Rust on infected juniper host species. Image Credit Hank Dankers UF IFAS.

Although this may seem like an impossible situation, several control strategies exist.

  • Remove Infected branches: Removal of infected plant tissue will reduce the spread of the disease in your garden.
  • Removal of infected juniper host species: If the juniper or “cedar” in your landscape is something you can sacrifice, removal is warranted in cases of heavy infection.
  • Avoid planting susceptible species of juniper next to susceptible fruit tree species.
  • Treatment of fruit trees with fungicide: Preventative fungicidal sprays of products containing the active ingredients of sulfur, captan, chlorothalonil, or mancozeb and similar products can be effective. They will not cure existing conditions but are useful if you know that rusts are present in your area. Please read all pesticide labels before application, since there are pre-harvest limitations present on some products.

For additional information, please consult you local county extension office or review these publications by UF IFAS specialists (Florida Plant Disease Management Guide) and the Missouri Botanical Garden.

 

 

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus

tomato spotted wilt on leaves Photo Credits: IFAS

Tomato spotted wilt on leaves
Photo Credits: IFAS

Tomato Spotted Wilt on Fruit Photo Credit: IFAS

Tomato Spotted Wilt on Fruit
Photo Credit: IFAS

The spotted wilt virus has a wide host range and can affect tomatoes, peppers, plus many other vegetables and ornamental plants. Early symptoms of spotted wilt on tomato are difficult to diagnose. Young, infected plants may show an inward cupping of leaves, and the foliage may appear light color or have a slight bronze cast. As the disease progresses, plants may develop dark brown to black streaks on the main stem. Occasionally the top portion of the plant appears yellow or wilts.
The most characteristic symptom of spotted wilt appears on the fruit. On young fruit white to yellow concentric rings will develop on the fruit skin. The area within the ring typically is raised, which gives the fruit a bumpy appearance. The bright yellow rings on mature red fruit are easily diagnosed as spotted wilt.
The spotted wilt virus is transmitted from plant to plant by several species of a small insect called a thrips. Thrips are less than ¼ inch in length, light green to brown in color and are extremely difficult to find on the plants. It is very important to keep the weeds around the garden controlled because many weedy plants serve as alternate hosts for the virus vectors.
Virus diseases cannot be controlled once the plant is infected. So plant resistant varieties*! Sanitation will help with controlling virus diseases. Infected plants should be removed immediately to prevent spread of the pathogens. Perennial weeds, which may serve as alternate hosts, should be controlled in and adjacent to the garden. Avoid planting tomatoes next to peppers, or other vegetables and flowers susceptible to these diseases. Preventative control of insects, especially thrips, will help reduce the likelihood of spotted wilt.

*BHN 602, Amelia, Crista, Quincy, Bella Rosa, Top Gun, Fletcher, Mountain
Vegetable Garden Disease and Pest Controls

Vegetable Garden Disease and Pest Controls

During this growing season monitor your plants and keep them healthy as a healthy plant will be able to better survive an invader attack.

Nematode populations can be reduced temporarily by soil solarization. It is a technique that uses the sun’s heat to kill the soil-borne pests. Adding organic matter to the soil will help reduce nematode populations as well. Nematodes are microscopic worms that attack vegetable roots and reduce growth and yield. The organic matter will also improve water holding capacity and increase nutrient content.

Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus
Credits: UF/IFAS

If you choose to use pesticides, please follow pesticide label directions carefully. Learn to properly identify garden pests and use chemicals only when a serious pest problem exists. If you have questions please call your UF/IFAS county extension office. We can provide helpful information about insect identification.

Organic gardeners can use certain products like BT(Dipel) to control pests. Please remember not every off-the-shelf pesticide can be used on every crop. So be sure the vegetable you want to treat is on the label before purchasing the product.

Follow label directions for measuring, mixing and pay attention to any pre-harvest interval warning. That is the time that must elapse between application of the pesticide and harvest. For example, broccoli sprayed with carbaryl (Sevin) should not be harvested for two weeks.

Spray the plant thoroughly, covering both the upper and lower leaf surfaces. Do not apply pesticides on windy days. Follow all safety precautions on the label, keep others and pets out of the area until sprays have dried. Apply insecticides late in the afternoon or in the early evening when bees and other pollinators are less active. Products like malathion, carbaryl and pyrethroids are especially harmful to bees.

To reduce spray burn, make sure the plants are not under moisture stress. Water if necessary and let leaves dry before spraying. Avoid using soaps and oils when the weather is very hot, because this can cause leaf burn.

Control slugs with products containing iron phosphate.

Cucumber Mosaic Virus
Credits: UF/IFAS

Many common diseases can be controlled with sprays like chlorothalonil, maneb, or mancozeb fungicide. Powdery mildews can be controlled with triadimefon, myclobutanil, sulfur, or horticultural oils. Rust can be controlled with sulfur, propiconazole, ortebuconazole. Sprays are generally more effective than dusts.

 

Take-All Root Rot

Last summer’s heavy rain and the stress of January’s icy weather have contributed to widespread outbreaks of Take-All Root Rot, a soil-inhabiting fungus Gaeumannomyces graminis var. graminis that causes yellow grass patches ranging in diameter from a few inches to more than 15 feet. The symptoms first appear in the spring, but disease can persist all summer and survive the winter. Over time the entire area dies as the root system rots away.

 

The pathogen is naturally present on warm-season turfgrass roots. High rainfall and stressed turfgrass trigger the disease. Because the roots are affected, they are not able to efficiently obtain water or nutrients from the soil, nor are they able to store the products of photosynthesis, which result in the loss of color in the leaves. By the time the leaf symptoms appear, the pathogen has been active on the roots for several weeks, probably longer; potentially years. If the turfgrass is not stressed, leaf symptoms may never be observed.

 

This disease is very difficult to control once the above-ground symptoms are observed. Measures that prevent or alleviate stress are the best methods for controlling the disease. Any stress (environmental or man-made) placed on the turf weakens it, making it more susceptible to disease. Remember, that every maintenance practice, fertilizer application, and chemical (especially herbicide), application has an impact on turfgrass health.

 

Cultural practices that impact the level of stress experienced by a lawn include: proper turfgrass species selection; mowing at the correct height; irrigation timing, frequency and volume; fertilizer nitrogen and potassium sources and application quantities; thatch accumulation; and soil compaction issues. The selection of turfgrass species should be based on existing soil pH, sunlight exposure, use of the area and planned maintenance level.

 

Mower blades must be sharp to avoid tearing of the leaves. Additionally, turfgrasses that are cut below their optimum height become stressed and more susceptible to diseases, especially root rots. When any disease occurs, raise the cutting height. Scalping the grass damages the growing point. Raising the cutting height increases the green plant tissue available for photosynthesis, resulting in more energy for turfgrass growth and subsequent recovery from disease. If an area of the lawn has an active fungus, washing or blowing off the mower following use will reduce the spread of the disease to unaffected areas.

 

The amount of water and the timing of its application can prevent or contribute to disease development. Most fungal pathogens that cause leaf diseases require free water (rainfall, irrigation, dew) on the leaf to initiate the infection process. Irrigating every day for a few minutes is not beneficial for the turfgrass because it does not provide enough water to the root zone, but it is beneficial for turfgrass pathogens. It is always best to irrigate when dew is already present, usually between 2 and 8 a.m., and then only apply enough water to saturate the root zone of the turfgrass.

 

Excessively high nitrogen fertility contributes to turfgrass diseases. The minimum amount required for the grass species should be applied. Potassium (K) is an important component in the prevention of diseases, because it prevents plant stress. Application of equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium is recommended for turfgrass health. When turfgrass roots are damaged from disease, it is beneficial to apply nutrients in a liquid solution. However, nitrate-nitrogen increases the severity of diseases, so their use should be avoided when possible. Ammonium-containing fertilizers are the preferred nitrogen sources. Heavy liming has also been linked to increases in Take-All Root Rot. Since most turfgrasses can tolerate a range of pH, maintaining soil at 5.5 to 6.0 can suppress the development of the pathogen. When the disease is active, frequent foliar applications of small amounts of nutrients is necessary to keep the turfgrass from declining.

 

Additional maintenance practices that need to be addressed are thatch removal and reduction of soil compaction. Excessive thatch often causes the mower to sink which can result in scalping and reducing the amount of leaf tissue capable of photosynthesizing. Thatch and compacted soil prevent proper drainage, resulting in areas remaining excessively wet, depriving root systems of oxygen.

 

Since recovery of Take-All – damaged turfgrass is often poor, complete renovation of the lawn may be necessary. Removal of all diseased tissue is advised. As a native, soil-inhabiting pathogen, Take-All-Root-Rot cannot be eliminated. But, suppression of the organism through physical removal followed by proper cultivation of the new sod is critical to the establishment of a new lawn. Turfgrass management practices, not chemicals, offer the best control of the disease.

 

It is acceptable to use fungicides on a preventative basis while rooting in the sod. Azoxystrobin, fenarimol, myclobutanil, propiconazole, pyraclostrobin, thiophate methyl, and triadimefon are all fungicides that can be utilized to prevent disease development while having to excessively irrigate newly laid sod. Ideally, the turf area should be mowed and irrigated prior to a fungicide application. Unless the product needs to be watered in, do not irrigate for at least 24 hours after a chemical treatment. Do not mow for at least 24 hours, to avoid removal of the product attached to the leaf blades.

 

Now that we have added another major stress with the recent heavy rain, it will be very important to continue monitoring the turf and being cautious about the cultural practices being used. Take-All Root Rot is likely to flourish. Do not encourage its development.

Landscape Issues Related to Excess Rainfall and Flooding

The last week of April 2014 brought with it 10-22 inches of rain across the panhandle in a matter of days.  Some areas had immediate flooding and standing water, while others may be in areas at risk of rising rivers and streams.  As the water recedes, many people are wondering how all the water will affect their landscapes.

Only time will tell what the long term impact will be, but here are a few things to watch for and what you can do to try to moderate damage.

  • Let soils dry out before driving vehicles or other equipment on grassy areas.  Even if the water is not visible, if the soil is still saturated, driving lawn equipment or cars may cause ruts.
  • Do not leave automatic irrigation systems running on established shrubs, trees, and lawns.  If your system is set to run in the early morning hours, you may not think about it being on, check your systems and hold off on adding water until soils dry out and the plants need it.
  • Watch for fungus symptoms and treat if needed.  Wet plants and cool weather are ideal for some Brown Patch on lawns, be aware and monitor landscapes closely.  If disease is suspected, contact your local county extension office for recommendation.
  • When mowing, leave a longer leaf blade to compensate for root stress.
  • Look at the base of trees and shrubs to make sure silt and sand have not buried the crown or root flare.  Also look for erosion of root zone, these areas may need correction.  “Salvaging Flood-Damaged Shrubs and Ornamentals.” 
  • Adjust fertilization as needed; if you recently applied fertilizer it has likely runoff or leached from the site.  However, if you suspect fungal disease do not fertilize until disease is managed.
  • Stress in turfgrass, for details read “Watch Turf for Flooding Stress
  • You may see new weeds (seeds or segments may have washed or blown into your yard)
  • Tree and shrub decline or death read “We Had Plenty of Rain, Why are My Trees Dying?”
  • Although this storm was not a hurricane, “Assessing Damage and Restoring Trees After a Hurricane”  has helpful information for areas with wind damage
  • Nutritional deficiency symptoms in palms may show up 4-5 months from now. “Nutrient Deficiencies of Landscape and Field-grown Palms in Florida.
  • Decreased availability and increased price of sod (flooded fields prevent harvest and increase inputs for disease, weed, and nutrition management)
  • Scheduling changes or maintenance adjustments by landscape contractors.  Turfgrass and ornamentals will likely need different maintenance applications than in years past to correct issues related to flooding and excess rain.

Diagnosing Deficiencies in Your Landscape

Now that spring has finally sprung and summer is well on its way, you may find yourself taking a stroll through your landscape and assessing damage done by late cold spells. However, it may not be a frost problem that has your plants looking worse for the wear. They could be experiencing nutritional imbalances which affect overall plant health. Most cases involving nutrition issues in plants can be linked back to the soil. Therefore, if you suspect a problem I suggest testing your soil to ascertain pH and nutrient levels. You can obtain a soil test kit at your local UF IFAS Extension office. Another way to diagnose your plant damage is to visually catalog its symptoms. Symptoms of mobile nutrients, such as nitrogen and phosphorus, tend to reveal themselves on older leaves first. Whereas, immobile nutrient symptoms (i.e. boron and calcium) will show up on newer leaves. These flow charts can help to narrow down which essential element may be lacking in your plant’s diet.

nutrient_defeciencies

Mobile Nutrient Symptoms.

Immobile Nutrient Symptoms.

Immobile Nutrient Symptoms.