Anchor frost cloth securely to keep it tightly in place, as removing air gaps helps trap ground heat and shield plants from cold air. Photo by Molly Jameson.
Here in North Florida, mild winters are the norm, but our occasional cold snaps can be enough to wreak havoc on our gardens. As you might remember, in December of 2022 the entire Panhandle experienced temperatures dipping into the teens and low 20s for several nights in a row, with some areas reaching as low as 18°F. This kind of unexpected freeze can catch even the most experienced gardeners off guard.
While plant covers are the go-to solution for many of us, pairing them with additional techniques can offer even better protection when temperatures dip. From common cold weather protection myths to practical DIY tips that enhance your plant cover’s effectiveness, knowing your options can make all the difference during an impending cold snap.
Cold Protection Myths and Misconceptions
When a frost or freeze warning hits, there’s plenty of advice flying around. Some of it’s helpful, and some, not so much. Here are a few misconceptions to clear up:
“Lollipop” trees will allow the heat from the ground to escape, giving the tree no cold protection. Photo by Jonathan Burns.
“It’s All About Covering the Leaves”
Many gardeners believe that simply covering the leaves of their plants will provide adequate protection. However, this can lead to what’s commonly referred to as “lollipop” trees, where only the foliage is covered, leaving the trunk exposed. This is problematic because cold air can still penetrate, and the heat rising from the ground isn’t captured effectively. To ensure proper protection, the plant cover should touch the ground all around the plant to trap heat radiating from the soil, providing insulation from below. For best results, choose a medium-weight frost cloth (about 1 to 1.5 oz/yd²) made from breathable polypropylene or polyester fabric. These materials offer excellent insulation, providing about 4 to 8 degrees of temperature protection, depending on factors like cloth weight, ground heat trapped, and wind conditions. Frost cloth also allows moisture and air exchange, which helps prevent overheating on sunny days.
“A Plastic Sheet Works Just as Well as Frost Cloth”
Throwing a plastic sheet over your plants might seem like an easy fix, but it often leads to more harm than good. Plastic is non-breathable, which can trap condensation and freeze on the plant’s surface. It also doesn’t insulate well, transferring cold temperatures directly to the leaves and stems. If you must use plastic in a pinch, make sure it doesn’t touch the plants directly and that it’s securely anchored to the ground to effectively trap warmth. Be sure to remove it in the morning once temperatures start to rise to avoid overheating.
“Covering Your Plants Alone is Enough”
With PVC hoops ready to hold frost cloth and a thick layer of pine straw mulch, these raised beds are prepped for whatever winter throws their way. Photo by Molly Jameson.
While covering plants is crucial, sometimes additional steps can make a big difference. Mulching around the base of plants with a thick layer of pine straw or leaves helps insulate the soil and trap ground heat. It’s a small step that offers big protection to the roots and lower stems.
“Watering Plants Before a Freeze Doesn’t Help”
Watering the soil around your plants before a freeze is a good practice because moist soil retains heat better than dry soil. This can help keep the root zone warmer overnight. However, it’s important to focus on watering the soil rather than the leaves. Water on foliage can freeze and cause damage, so it’s best to keep leaves dry as the temperatures drop. A deep watering a day or two before the cold hits is ideal for giving your plants a fighting chance.
DIY Cold Protection Solutions
If expensive greenhouses and plant covers are out of your budget or you want to get creative, there are plenty of do-it-yourself solutions for protecting your plants:
Recycled Materials as Frost Protection
Old bedsheets, towels, or even buckets and cardboard boxes can be used in a pinch to cover smaller plants. Just be sure to anchor them down well, so they don’t blow away.
DIY Hoop Houses
A temporary hoop house can be constructed using PVC pipes as the frame and polyethylene film as the covering to protect cold-sensitive plants during freezes. Photo by David W. Marshall.
For taller or sprawling plants, construct simple hoop houses using PVC piping with breathable frost cloth or lightweight plastic sheeting. Unlike placing plastic directly on plants, hoop houses create an air gap between the plastic and the plants, which helps trap heat from the soil while preventing direct contact damage. If using plastic, seal it tightly at night to trap warmth, and open it partially during the day to prevent overheating or excessive moisture buildup as temperatures rise. These low tunnels are perfect for garden beds or fruiting plants that need a little more room under cover.
String Lights for Added Warmth
For extra protection, consider using outdoor-rated incandescent string lights (not LEDs, which don’t produce heat). Drape the lights around or near the plant under the covering to create a gentle source of warmth, which can raise temperatures by a few degrees on especially cold nights. For fire safety, keep lights from direct contact with dry materials and use only moisture-safe, outdoor lights.
Windbreaks to Stop the Chill
In areas with open landscapes, cold winds can make frost damage even worse. Planting a hedge or using temporary barriers like hay bales or pallets can shield your garden from icy gusts and protect your more delicate plants.
One of the best ways to prepare for cold snaps is to plant cold-tolerant varieties suited to North Florida’s climate. Vegetables like collards, kale, and carrots, or perennials like rosemary and garlic chives, can withstand mild freezes with little effort. If you’re growing fruit trees, look for varieties with proven cold tolerance or dwarf varieties that are easier to cover.
With a little planning and a few simple techniques, you can protect your garden from unexpected cold spells and keep it thriving through our chilliest nights.
Fall is a season that is synonymous for two great joys in life…..football games and the changing leaf colors! However, in Florida we just don’t have the incredible burst of vivid fall leaf color as our northern neighbors enjoy each year, but we do have enough temperate region plants that can give us some seasonal change in foliage.
So what makes this brilliant display of autumn leaf color anyway? This seasonal change is brought on by a few variables, such as lower temperatures, shorter photo period/shorter days and chemical pigments found in leaf tissues. Some of the pigments that give autumn leaves their bright colors are actually present in the leaves as soon as they unfold as flush in early spring. But, during spring and summer, when the plants are growing vigorously, a green-colored material called chlorophyll dominates and shades out the other leaf pigments.
Chlorophyll plays on important role in a process called photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants capture energy from sunlight and manufacture food. Chlorophyll can also be found in water bodies and is an indicator of water quality. As plants get ready for cool season dormancy, the production on new chlorophyll decreases to almost being nonexistent. That’s when the before mentioned pigments, also called carotenoids, take over and make the leaves turn brilliant orange, red, purple and yellow.
There are some plants in the Florida’s landscape that do provide good fall color. Unlike most of the flowering shrubs, which hold their blossoms for only a brief period, the trees and shrubs that turn color in the fall will usually retain their varied hues for a month or more, depending on the weather.
Red Maple. Credit. UF/IFAS Extension
What are some examples of trees that will lend fall color in your Panhandle landscape?
Shumard Oak
Turkey Oak
Ginkgo
Hickory
Golden Rain Tree
Red Swamp Myrtle
Dogwood
Red Maple (see photo)
Sweet Gum
Black Gum
Crape Myrtle
Tulip Tree
Bradford Pear
Cypress
What about annuals that provide color in the fall? Petunias, pansies and snapdragons will be in full bloom over the next few months.
Firespike. Credit. UF/IFAS Extension
What about blooming perennials for fall? Salvia, firespike (see photo), chrysanthemum, beautyberry and holly are great for color in the fall and attract wildlife to your landscape.
A mix of these plants will ensure fall color in your landscape. For more information contact your local county extension office.
Caring for African Violets: A Guide for Enthusiasts
Photo Credit: Martha Mitchell.
African violets (Saintpaulia ionantha) are beloved houseplants known for their vibrant blooms and ease of growth indoors. Since their introduction to the United States, they have become favorites among plant enthusiasts for their adaptability and stunning flowers, making them staples in homes and offices. African violets thrive in bright, indirect light and moderate temperatures, and they come in various flower colors, including pink, purple, white, and combinations of these hues. Here’s how to ensure your African violets thrive with proper watering, fertilizing, and propagation.
Watering
The quality of water is crucial for African violets. Use water that is safe for drinking, making sure it is at room temperature or slightly warmer to avoid causing yellow spots on the leaves. The watering needs of African violets vary based on soil mixture, drainage, light, temperature, and humidity. For example, clay pots require more frequent watering than plastic pots due to higher evaporation rates. Water your African violets when the soil surface is dry to the touch or if wilting is noticeable.
There are two methods to water African violets: top watering and bottom watering. For top watering, apply enough water to saturate the soil and discard any excess that drains out. For bottom watering, place the pot in a container with about an inch of water. Once the soil surface becomes moist, remove the pot, let it drain, and discard any remaining water. Self-watering pots are also an option, and you can create one by making a “water wick” from a material like a braided nylon stocking. Insert the wick into one of the pot’s drainage holes and ensure it reaches the bottom of a water reservoir. Whether you water from the top or bottom, avoid letting the plant sit in water.
Fertilizing
African violets benefit from regular feeding with water-soluble fertilizers like 20-20-20 or 15-30-15. Mix the fertilizer at one-fourth the recommended rate and apply it every time you water, ensuring the soil is moist before application. If your plant shows signs of needing nutrients, such as gradual loss of leaf color, reduced growth, and fewer flowers, fertilize and observe for ten days. Be careful not to over-fertilize, as this can result in tight centers and rusty-appearing new leaves.
Photo credit: Donna Arnold, FAMU Extension.
Propagation
Propagating African violets is simple and can be done using leaf cuttings. Choose a healthy leaf from the middle of the plant, snap or cut it off, and trim the petiole (leaf stem) to about 1–1.5 inches. Insert the petiole into a propagation medium. Roots typically form at the petiole base within three to four weeks, new leaves appear three to four weeks and flowering occurs six to nine months later.
Additional Tips
When purchasing an African violet, it usually adapts well to its container for a while. Although these plants prefer a crowded environment, repotting them annually into lightweight potting media is advisable.
Maintaining sanitation is essential to prevent diseases. Ensure all pots, tools, and materials are clean before use. With proper care and attention, African violets can flourish, bringing beauty and joy to any indoor space. By following these guidelines on watering, fertilizing, and propagating, you can enjoy healthy and vibrant African violets in your home. for more information, contact your local Extension Office or click on the links below:
In the ever growing urbanization of our world today, green spaces are hard to come by but are so essential to biodiversity conservation. Pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and birds, play a crucial role in our ecosystem by facilitating plant reproduction. Unfortunately, pollinator populations are declining due to habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change. However, by making simple changes to your garden, you can create an environment that supports and protects your pollinators. In this article, we will discuss ways to turn your garden into a pollinator paradise.
Gulf Fritillary butterfly on flower. Photo taken 09-26-22. UF/IFAS Photo by Cat Wofford.
Choosing Native Plants
Native plants are adapted to the local climate and soil conditions, making them ideal for supporting native pollinators. Research native species that thrive in your region and incorporate them into your landscape. Aim for a diverse selection of flowers that bloom at different times throughout the year to provide a continuous food source for pollinators.
Flowers and insects at the student gardens on the University of Florida campus. Pollinating bee. UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones.
Providing Shelter and Nesting Sites
Pollinators need more than just nectar-rich flowers; they also require sheltered spaces for nesting or overwintering. By incorporating features such as brush piles, dead trees, and nesting boxes you are creating habitat diversity for the pollinators. Leaving some areas of bare soil for ground-nesting bees and providing water sources like shallow dishes or birdbaths can further enhance your garden’s appeal to pollinators as well.
Avoid Chemical Pesticides
Chemical pesticides not only can harm pollinators, but they can also directly disrupt ecosystems. Instead of reaching for a spray on the shelf to deter pests, consider using a natural pest control method such as companion planting, handpicking pests, and encouraging natural predators like ladybugs and birds. Certain organic gardening practices not only protect pollinators, but can also promote your garden’s overall health.
Embrace Imperfection
A manicured garden may look appealing, but it can be sometimes inhospitable to our pollinator friends. Create a more naturalistic approach by allowing certain areas of your garden to grow wild. Letting plants go to seed, leaving some leaf litter, and allowing flowers to fade and form seed heads provide valuable resources for pollinators throughout their life cycle.
A butterfly garden at a Florida-Friendly Landscape. UF/IFAS Photo taken by Cat Wofford 9-29-23
Educate and Inspire Others
Because pollinator numbers have rapidly declined in recent years, awareness and education of their importance to our ecosystem is crucial. Spreading the word of their importance and how you can contribute to conservation efforts truly helps the cause. UF/IFAS Extension has made great efforts in hosting workshops, giving presentations, and sharing information through newsletters and social media about the importance of creating pollinator habitats. We encourage you, your neighbors, friends, and community members to join in the movement of creating pollinator-friendly gardens and landscapes.
By transforming your garden into a pollinator paradise, you not only enhance its beauty, but also play a vital role in conserving biodiversity. Every flower you plant and every habitat you create contributes to the well-being of bees, butterflies, birds, and other pollinators. Together, we can make a difference and ensure a thriving ecosystem for generations to come.
Since 2020, we have delivered timely webinars using Zoom and Facebook Live to reach Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! viewers. In 2024, we are changing things up just a bit. Due to changes in the way Zoom and Facebook interface we will only be transmitting live through Zoom.
What does that mean for our Facebook viewers? We will still post Events about upcoming programs with links to register for the episode and will continue to share videos after they are uploaded to YouTube (usually this is within 24 hours). Thank you for your patience as we make this change
Below is our lineup for 2024 – we hope you will join us!
There are fruit types that grow well in North Florida and that do not require a lot of space. For high yields they do need a spot that gets direct sun for at least half the day. An area only 10 by 10 feet can support a gratifying amount of fruit production.
Some of the best fruit choices for small areas are rabbiteye blueberries, blackberries and muscadine grapes.
The rabbiteye blueberry is native to the Southeastern United States. Blueberries require a soil pH below 5.3. So, it’s advisable to have your soil tested to find out what the pH is before planting. Mixing peat moss into the soil can lower the pH, if needed. There are many rabbiteye blueberry cultivars. Be sure to plant at least two cultivars together for pollination. Here is a link with more information on blueberries for Florida. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MG359
All of the other fruits like a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Garden lime can be used to raise the pH but only if you have the results of a reliable soil test indicating how much lime is needed. Your County Extension Office can help you determine how to have your soil tested.
Blackberries are productive if you select the correct cultivars. Cultivars adapted to Florida produce large, attractive fruit. Some are self-fruitful while others require a pollinator. Some have thorns while others are thornless. Some grow more erect while some have a trailing growth habit, requiring trellising. ‘Brazos’ is a late fruiting cultivar that does well in our area and does not require cross-pollination but it does have thorns. Here is a link with more information on blackberries for Florida. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/hs104
The muscadine grape was one of the pleasant surprises found by the early colonists in the Southeastern United States. An extensive breeding program has resulted in many improved cultivars. Scuppernong is a variety of muscadine. Other popular varieties include ‘Cowart’, ‘Fry’, ‘Carlos’, ‘Summit’, ‘Higgins’, and ‘Nesbitt’. There are many others. Some are self-fruitful while others require a pollinator. There are cultivars that produce bronze, black, red or purple fruit. Some cultivars produce larger fruit, some have a higher sugar content and are sweeter. Muscadines are ready to harvest in late summer to early fall. Some mature early season, mid-season or late season, based on the cultivar. Here is a link with more information on muscadines for Florida. https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS100
Even though these fruit plants can be grown with limited space, they do require some care, including correct fertilization and pruning. Mid-December to mid-February is the best planting time for these fruit plants.
