Rayless Sunflower

Rayless Sunflower

Fall is a wonderful season for viewing wildflowers and there are many flower colors brightening our landscapes and roadsides. Amongst all the color there is one wildflower, the Rayless sunflower (Helianthus radula) that may not be nearly as showy but is very interesting in the landscape.

Flower heads have disk flowers but no rays. Photo by Beth Bolles

Flower heads have disk flowers but no rays. Photo by Beth Bolles

Many people will discover the Rayless sunflower in a moist area near the ditch or a drainage area. It has a basal set of leaves that blend into the surrounding grass. In summer a leafless stem about will emerge that is topped by a round flower with discs but no rays. It mostly appears brown but may offer a tinge of red or purple from the disc flowers.

Rayless sunflower in mass. Photo by Jeff Norcini

Rayless sunflower in mass. Photo by Jeff Norcini

Not everyone will appreciate the beauty of the rayless sunflower. It will be visited by pollinators and offers an attractive contrast to the greens of surrounding plant material. It is a plant suited to its preferred habitat and an understated treasure among native wildflowers.

Can Your Landscape Support Breeding Butterflies?

Can Your Landscape Support Breeding Butterflies?

Giant Swallowtail on citrus leaf. JMcConnell, UF/IFAS

Giant Swallowtail on citrus leaf. JMcConnell, UF/IFAS

Adult butterflies are pretty easy to attract to your landscape if you provide flowering plants, but getting them to lay eggs in your garden is a little trickier.

Butterflies go through complete metamorphosis which means that they have four main life stages. The first is the egg, second they hatch into caterpillars (larvae) which feed and molt many times, the third stage is the pupa or chrysalis, and finally they emerge as colorful adults. Complete metamorphosis is considered a more advanced life cycle than incomplete and one of the reasons is because most insects that go through this process do not compete for food at different life cycles. For example, the gulf fritillary butterfly larvae needs passionflower (Passiflora spp.) to feed on – no other plant type will do. The adults visit many flowering landscape plants such as zinnias, butterfly bush, pentas, etc. The adults are feeding on nectar while the caterpillars are eating foliage.

Because the larvae are very host specific, you must offer the correct plant to attract particular butterflies. Luckily, we have many options in the Florida panhandle! Just remember if you would like to attract butterfly breeding to your yard, you must sacrifice some foliage to support the caterpillars.

• Gulf Fritillary – Passionflower
• Monarch – Native milkweed
• Giant Swallowtail – citrus
• Eastern Black Swallowtail – plants in the carrot family including dill, celery, fennel, and parsley
• Tiger Swallowtail – sweet bay magnolia, tulip poplar, black cherry
• Zebra Swallowtail – pawpaw
• Luna Moth – walnut, hickory, sweetgum, persimmon, winged sumac

If you would like to know more about individual butterfly species please visit UF/IFAS Entomology & Nematology’s Featured Creatures website.

 

 

Armyworms Wage War Via Guerrilla Warfare

Armyworms Wage War Via Guerrilla Warfare

Armyworms come in a wide range of colors and sizes.  A few of the prominent species living in Florida are beet, southern, and fall armyworms.  And the term “living” is not an exaggeration,  because Florida is one of the lucky states where it is warm enough for armyworms to overwinter.  They are the snowbirds that never leave!

Armyworm damage in turf.

Armyworm damage on a lawn. Credit: Purdue University

Armyworms are notorious for unanticipated invasions.  They feed on most turfgrass species and most vegetable crops, but they prefer grassy vegetable crops such as corn.  Armyworms feed in large groups and their feeding has been described as “ground moving” in lawns. They feed during cooler times of the day (morning and evening) and they roll up and rest under the vegetative canopy (in the thatch layer in turf and in the base of leaves in vegetables) during the heat of the day.

Armyworms are difficult to control because of their spontaneity.  However, in the lawn they hide in the thatch during the heat of the day.  Over watering and fertilization can increase the amount of thatch.  It is important to follow UF/IFAS guidelines for home lawn management.  A good weed control program can also help to deter armyworms, because weeds serve as an alternate food source.

Numerous chemical control options are available, but softer chemicals such as horticultural oils and insecticides containing the bacteria Bacillus thuringiensis are recommended as a first line of defense.  Insecticides should be applied in the morning or evening during feeding time.  For additional control strategies and basic information please visit the UF/IFAS Armyworm Publication Page.

Armyworm damage on corn.

Armyworm feeding on a young corn plant. Credit: University of Illinois

Beating Pests with Plant Chemicals

Beating Pests with Plant Chemicals

It would seem that landscapes are filled with pests ready to devour our favorite plants. We can often see evidence of pest damage in the form of leaf curls, stippled leaves, or chewed holes in foliage. How do plants survive with all the pest threats without intervention from people?

Many plants have their own alert system to help manage a plant-feeding insect attack. When tissues are damaged by plant feeders, the plant releases volatile chemicals that serve as signals for many beneficial insects. Predators such as lady beetles, lacewings, and predatory bugs ‘pick up’ the chemical signals and fly to the injured plants to find their prey.

Ladybeetle larvae will eat many soft-bodied pests.

Ladybeetle larvae will eat many soft-bodied pests.

An interesting part of this occurrence is that the release of chemicals by one plant can stimulate other surrounding plants to build up their chemical defenses against future pest feeding.

The key lesson for all gardeners is that there are many natural processes going on without our knowledge. Instead of immediately applying a broad-spectrum insecticide at the earliest sign of pest feeding on a plant, give the predators a chance to provide you with a free and environmentally sound form of pest control.

Getting to Know Your Backyard Pests

Getting to Know Your Backyard Pests

Deer are known to eat daylilies in the landscape. To prevent browsing, choose other plants or create a barrier with deer fencing.

Deer are known to eat daylilies in the landscape. To prevent browsing, choose other plants or create a barrier with deer fencing.

Any seasoned gardener knows that even a well maintained garden will eventually face a pest issue. Pests come in all shapes and sizes and may include weeds, disease, insects, moles, rabbits, birds, and deer. Although some gardeners may invite wildlife into their gardens when that adorable deer eats your prized hydrangea it tends to lose the cuteness factor.

Regardless of what type of pest issue you are facing, the only way to establish a successful control program is to correctly identify and understand some basic things about the pest. Incorrect assumptions or misidentification can lead to taking the wrong action and may even cause more harm to plants.

Some things to know about your pest (after identification):

  • Preferred host or target plant – diversify landscapes to minimize susceptibility to each pest.
  • Feeding/damage caused – is it just aesthetic or will it cause long-term harm?
  • For rapidly reproducing pests such as insects or fungi, what is the timing of new generations? For example, if you eliminate adult insects expect that eggs are waiting to hatch – you need to know when to retreat.
  • What natural enemies might help reduce populations and how can they be preserved?
  • Be sure to match control methods with pest behavior and activity. For example, if you want to use an insecticidal soap on azalea lace but you need to know that they feed from the underside of the leaf in order to properly coat them with the product.

Take the time to get to know the pest in your backyard and management efforts will be much more effective. For help with identification and control, contact your local extension office.

Design Your Own Butterfly Garden

Design Your Own Butterfly Garden

Butterflies are not only beautiful to look at in your landscape; they serve as important pollinators and indicators of the health of our environment. Attracting them to your garden and incorporating some features to get them to stay and make it their home involves a little planning ahead of time for optimum results.

Queen butterfly. Photo credit: Milt Putnam, UF/IFAS.

Queen butterfly. Photo credit: Milt Putnam, UF/IFAS.

Choose a location that provides some protection from wind. Trees and shrubs that provide wind protection also serve as a safe harbor from rain and predators. The garden should be mostly sunny with some part sun areas. Ensure that any new plantings have access to a convenient irrigation source so they can be successfully established and maintained in good health.

Now you’ll need to choose the plants. Adults feed on the nectar of many flowering trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals and, fortunately, there are usually many choices that will meet your site requirements and your taste preferences. In order to keep the butterflies in your garden, certain plants need to be available to serve as host plants for their young. Determine which species of butterfly is common in your area and that you want to attract. Most species have very few plants on which the caterpillars can feed so those host plants need to be chosen wisely. Determine whether any of the plants you already have are host plants and they can be integrated into your butterfly garden. For example, cassia is a host plant for the Cloudless Sulphur and citrus is a host plant for the Giant Swallowtail.

In choosing your nectar plants, select those that are native or Florida-Friendly as they are lower maintenance, giving you less trouble in the long run. Choose plants that have flowers in a variety of color, size, and shape. Different butterflies like to feed at different elevations, so choose trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals of varying heights. In order to have nectar available throughout the time when the butterflies occur, include plants that bloom at different times of the year. And include some plants that bloom from spring to late fall, like pentas or moss verbena.

Larger plants should be placed in the background with smaller plants layered in the foreground.  When you plant smaller annuals and perennials, place them in masses to better attract the butterflies.  Consider placing host plants in an area that is in close proximity to the nectar plants, but in an area of your garden that is not a focal point. Host plants can get quite ragged looking from hungry caterpillars!

Good maintenance practices will enhance the health of your garden. Regular fertilization and irrigation if needed will help keep your plants in bloom and healthy; healthy plants are less susceptible to disease and pests. Avoid pesticides as they may harm the very creatures you are trying to attract. Never use Bt or systemic pesticide.  If you must, target a pest with lower risk oils or soaps and then only treat the affected plants. Lastly, be aware of beneficial insects that will help you achieve satisfactory control of a pest.

Now that your plants are placed there are several things to do to make your butterfly garden complete. Add a spot where water can puddle on the ground for the adult butterflies to drink. They require minerals from the soil that get dissolved in the water. Also add a rock or log in a sunny spot where butterflies can rest and sun themselves. And consider placing a comfortable place for you to sit and enjoy the beauty of your garden and its inhabitants!

For more information:

Butterfly Gardening in Florida