by Gary Knox | Jul 29, 2013
Crapemyrtle flowering has been spectacular this year!
While most other garden plants droop from summer’s heat, humidity and heavy rains, crapemyrtle thrives and puts on an outstanding show of flowers all summer and fall. Thanks to modern breeders, there are all sizes of improved hybrid crapemyrtles with flower colors of lavender, purple, white, pink, or red.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Tonto’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
Just say “No” to Pruning
- Crapemyrtle varieties come in tree-size, patio tree and shrub categories.
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Tree-size crapemyrtles grow 25 ft. tall and are ideal as flowering trees. Patio tree-form plants (up to 12 ft.) are beautiful as small, flowering specimen plants near patios, walkways, and entrances. Shrub forms (up to 6 ft.) make excellent accents in a shrub border and smaller types are effective as large groundcovers or container plants.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Red Rocket’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
- Make sure you buy the right size crapemyrtle for your home. Don’t make the mistake of planting a tree-size crapemyrtle in an area too small for its ultimate size, or you’ll find yourself pruning it hard – and often – to keep it from out-growing its place.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Sioux’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
Recommended Varieties
- Some of the best tree-size (25 ft.) types are Natchez (white), Red Rocket® (red), Sioux (pink) and Apalachee (lavender). Superior patio tree crapemyrtles (12 ft.) are Acoma (white), Cheyenne (true red), Tonto (fuchsia red), Hopi (pink) and Catawba (purple). Smaller shrub (6 ft.) crapemyrtles are hard to find, but Cherry Dazzle® is a nice mounding red and Pixie White and New Orleans (purple) are good selections.
Planting and Garden Care
- When it comes to planting, crapemyrtle is very tolerant and forgiving with three exceptions. First, crapemyrtle needs sun to flower freely, so plant it in a site receiving at least six hours of direct sunlight each day. Secondly, crapemyrtle will not grow in wet soils. Finally, never plant crapemyrtle too deep — if you do so, it will punish you by not flowering for years and years. Planting too deep literally smothers the roots, requiring the crapemyrtle to regenerate a new root system in the soil above.
- Crapemyrtle is very drought tolerant and almost seems to thrive on neglect. On the other hand, regular watering and fertilizer will help crapemyrtle grow faster and bigger.
Crapemyrtle Cultivar: ‘Acoma’
Image Credit: Gary Knox
More Beauty on the Way!
- Breeders are continuing to improve and introduce new crapemyrtles. Many new varieties were released in the last couple years. In particular, watch for new types with purple-burgundy leaf color all summer long! Time will tell which new ones grow best in Northwest Florida. Stay tuned as the world of crapemyrtle continues to evolve and improve!
*Gary Knox is Professor of Environmental Horticulture with the University of Florida. He is stationed at the North Florida Research and Education Center in Quincy, where he evaluates more than 100 cultivars of crapemyrtle.
by Carrie Stevenson | Jul 29, 2013
Few things move a local homeowner into action faster than a big storm moving into the Gulf of Mexico. After filling up at gas stations and running out to home improvement stores, many start trimming limbs and removing trees.
The destructive tornadoes in the Midwest this spring may cause anxiety about having mature trees in a yard. It is true that falling trees and limbs can cause damage to a home and property. However, it is wise to look closely at a landscape before making a permanent decision. It’s also important to do this before the stress of a looming storm is at hand. Trees are very important for providing shade (i.e. energy savings), wildlife habitat, storm-water management, and maintaining property values.
University of Florida / IFAS researchers have done long-term studies on the effects of wind on trees and landscapes, and several important lessons stand out. Keep in mind that reducing storm damage often starts at the landscape design / planning stage!
After a hurricane, piles of vegetative debris are common sights. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
Below are several tips for protecting your home and landscape in case of a storm.
- Plant high-quality trees with single trunks and strong branches. Branch attachment angles can affect whether a large branch will split from a tree. Branches angling straighter out from a tree (wide angles) are stronger than those pointing almost directly up (tight angles).
“Florida fancy” is the best quality of tree, with quality decreasing to “cull” level. Notice the difference in branch angles and direction between each group. Figure courtesy FDACS, Division of Plant Industry
- Trees that have had regular pruning are less likely to fail than neglected trees. The UF horticulture website has detailed information on correct pruning, or you can contact your County Extension Agent for tips.
- Post-hurricane studies in North Florida show that Live Oak, Southern magnolia, Sabal Palm, and Bald Cypress stand up well compared to other trees during hurricanes. Pecan, Water and Laurel Oak, Carolina Cherry Laurel and Sand Pine were among the least wind resistant. UF has a list of trees and their hurricane endurance based on a study conducted after the 2004 hurricane season.
The classic Southern magnolia tree earns high marks in wind resistance. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson
- Plant a variety of species, ages and layers of trees to maintain diversity in the yard and neighborhood.- Trees with decayed trunks are very dangerous in winds. Disease causing decay can come up from the roots or enter through improper pruning cuts. Remove hazard trees before the wind does. Have a certified arborist inspect trees for signs of disease and decay. They are trained to provide advice on tree health.
- Watch pines carefully. Sometimes there is hidden damage and the tree declines over time. Look for signs of stress or poor health, such as unusual dark stains or small holes on trunks, dropping leaves, or piles of sawdust at the tree’s base. Check closely for insects. Weakened pines may be more susceptible to beetles and diseases. Long-leaf pines often survive storms in our area better than other species.
- Trees in a group (at least five) blow down less frequently than single trees.
- Trees should always be given plenty of room for roots to grow. Roots absorb nutrients, but they are also the anchors for the tree. If large trees are planted without enough space for roots to grow out in all directions, there is a likelihood that the tree may fall during high winds.
- Construction activities within about 20 feet from the trunk of existing trees can cause the tree to blow over more than 10 years later.
- When a tree is removed or dies, plant a new one in its place.
by Julie McConnell | Jul 22, 2013
When you contact your local extension office for pest control recommendations you will likely hear “follow the label” over and over again. So, why do we emphasize the pesticide label so strongly when talking to both homeowners and landscape professionals?
There are many important reasons why you should always read and follow label instructions.
- The Label is the Law – using a pesticide in a manner that is inconsistent with the label is a violation of the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA). Using a product inconsistent with the label includes, but is not limited to: rate of application, use on site not labeled for control, use on plants/lawns not labeled, frequency of application, method of application, distance from water sources, etc.
- Safety of Humans – using a product incorrectly can cause harm or even lead to death
- Safety to Non-target Organisms – this includes non-target insects, reptiles, birds, fish, mammals, and plants which can lead to negative impact on environment and economy
- Effectiveness of Product – millions of dollars are spent to figure out the most effective way a product works best, follow their instructions! (remember the manufacturer wants the product to be effective so that you’ll recommend to others and buy it again)
- Increased Resistance Decreases Control – improper application and a failure to rotate products as part of an integrated pest management program can increase likelihood of resistant pest populations
Before shopping for any pesticides, do some research:
- Has the pest been identified properly? What life cycle stage is the pest at? Most pesticides have different levels of efficacy depending on life cycle of target. For example, glyphosate works best on young plants that have not yet flowered. Your local extension office can help with identification and timing of control methods
- Can you control the pest with cultural practices such dethatching, irrigation, fertilizer, or mowing height changes? Start with the least toxic method of control and only work up if ineffective
- Read the label before you buy to be sure that it is labeled for your plant /lawn, target pest. The label will also tell you what equipment you’ll need to mix and apply and safety equipment. If product is not ready to use, be sure you can follow mixing and application procedures safely
- Are there particular environmental precautionary statements that are relevant to your site?
- How much do you need? Have you measured the area for treatment? Just as you don’t want to make multiple trips to the store, you also do not want a lot of excess chemicals on hand. They have to be stored or disposed of according to label instructions, too
For more information about pesticide labels read EDIS PI-34 Interpreting Pesticide Label Wording.
by Mary Salinas | Jun 21, 2013
We love our native magnolias in part because they are tough, easy to care for trees. The mainstay of southern gardens, they grace us with attractive thick, waxy leaves year round and sublimely fragrant and graceful blooms.
However, this past spring brought conditions that encouraged a fungal leaf disease known as anthracnose, most noticeably on the southern magnolia, Magnolia grandiflora. Affected leaves develop large irregular dead patches with a clearly defined border. The dead patches are a brownish gray and will flake and eventually deteriorate and fall away from the rest of the leaf. Fortunately it is rare for the disease to affect all branches of the tree and infection is somewhat spotty as you can in the photograph below.
Credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS Extension
Conditions that favor the development of anthracnose in magnolia are the cooler, moister conditions that the panhandle experienced this early spring. Spores overwinter on affected branches and in leaf litter and travel to their new hosts through rain, wind and splashing water.
View this article to learn more about the Southern Magnolia
[important]The good news is that this disease is rarely a serious threat to the long term health of the magnolia. [/important]
Credit: Mary Derrick, UF/IFAS Extension
But in order to avoid another infection next spring, remove and dispose of as many affected leaves as possible from the tree and certainly those that have fallen. Avoid irrigation that wets the leaves because the consistent presence of moisture on the leaf is a perfect incubator for anthracnose. Ensure that there is sufficient air flow around the trees. Fungicidal treatment is generally not warranted.
by Larry Williams | Jun 17, 2013
Tree cattle webbing. Photograph by Douglas L. Caldwell, University of Florida
Many people are noticing small insects on trunks and branches of their trees. When disturbed, these insects move in a group and are commonly called tree cattle because of this herding habit. They are ¼ inch brownish-black insects with white markings. Some people assume that these insects will injure their trees but they are harmless. They could be considered beneficial.
Before you spray your tree to control these insects, click on the following link and read the entire article.
Tree cattle are harmless
Tree cattle. Photograph by Jim Castner, University of Florida
by | Jun 4, 2013
Proper watering can make the difference between life and death to newly planted lawns, trees, shrubs, bedding plants, vegetable transplants and ground covers during the summer.
Because their roots have not had time to grow out into the surrounding soil, these plants do not yet have well-established root systems. With their root systems still limited to a relatively small area of soil, they are especially vulnerable to drought stress.
Trees
The first summer after planting is the most critical time for newly planted trees, and proper watering plays a major role in whether or not they survive – or how well they survive. Here are some effective watering techniques for trees.
One good method is to turn a hose on trickle, lay the end on top of the ground within 6 inches of the trunk of the tree and let the water trickle for about 20 minutes to 30 minutes. Or build a 4-inch high levee out of soil around the edge of the area dug up to plant the tree. Fill this area with water and let it slowly seep into the root zone.
I’ve found one of the best methods is to use a heated metal skewer or ice pick to pierce five to 10 holes through the bottom of a 5-gallon paint bucket or similar container. Make all the holes on one side. Place the bucket next to the tree trunk with the holes closest to the trunk. Fill up the container, and the water will slowly seep through the holes, providing excellent irrigation. If you want, you can spray paint the outside of the bucket dark green to make it less noticeable.
Use any of these techniques during hot weather whenever seven to 10 days pass without substantial rainfall. Continue to water twice a week until a good rain occurs. Drought-stressed trees may experience wilting, leaf drop, yellow or brown leaves, scorched leaf edges or even death.
Shrubs
Newly planted shrubs will need to be monitored more carefully and watered more frequently than established shrubs. Water with soaker hoses or sprinklers left on long enough for the water to penetrate at least 4 to 6 inches into the soil.
Keep in mind that all of a newly planted shrub’s roots are in a small area – about the size of the pot the shrub was growing in before planting. This is especially true for shrubs planted after March, since they have had little time to grow roots into the surrounding soil. A shrub can use up all the water in its root ball and become drought stressed even though the soil in the bed outside of the root ball is moist. So when checking the soil moisture in the bed, always be sure to stick your fingers right around the shrubs themselves.
Lawns
Now is a great time to lay sod to install a new lawn or repair an established one. But keep in mind that newly laid sod needs special attention to watering.
Water newly laid sod for about 15 to 20 minutes every day for the first seven to 10 days. Then water for about 30 minutes every other day for another seven to 10 days. After that, irrigate the lawn thoroughly once or twice a week, as needed, to encourage the roots to grow deep into the soil.
Do not water every day for more than 10 days or you may encourage fungus diseases. And, of course, there is no need to water if adequate rainfall occurs.
Seeds
Water seeded areas (vegetable seeds, flower seeds or lawn seeds) lightly by hand or with sprinklers every day until the seeds germinate and start to grow. It is critical for the soil to stay moist during germination.
Once the seeds come up, water more thoroughly less often to encourage the roots to grow deep into the soil. As the seedlings become established, water normally as needed.
Containers
Watering plants in containers outside is a constant job during the summer. It is typical to water every day, even twice a day, when weather is hot and dry. Keep this in mind when considering how many outside container plants you can maintain.
How often you have to water container plants is influenced by temperature, pot size, the type of potting mix, the drought tolerance of a plant, whether a plant is in sun or shade and how pot bound a plant is. Plants need to be watered more frequently when it is hot, if the containers are small, if a light potting mix is used, when plants are in a sunny location and when plants are pot-bound. In addition, clay pots tend to dry out faster than plastic or glazed ceramic pots.
To reduce the amount of watering you have to do, use larger rather than smaller pots, choose a potting mix that retains more water (it must still be fast draining, however), repot pot-bound plants into larger containers, use plastic pots and, if practical, move the plants into somewhat shadier conditions.
Potting mixes will retain more water with the addition of hydrophilic polymers. These gelatin-like particles hold large amounts of water without creating a waterlogged soil condition. Look for these polymer products or potting mixes that contain them where garden supplies are sold.
