It’s hard to miss the clusters of lavender colored flowers that seem to be growing everywhere right now. That’s because they are an invasive wisteria, doing what invasive plants do best: growing everywhere.
Wisteria vine wrapped around tree trunk Photo: Tristan Hansford; Budwood.org
We often notice the invasive Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) and Japanese wisteria (Wisteria Floribunda) in the early spring because of their fragrant and showy flowers. Look closely, and you’ll see thick vines wrapped around trees, decks, and other structures. This dense growth outcompetes native plants by taking up available light, nutrients, and space. Eventually the vines can even kill the trees and damage structures they grow on.
Look-Alike Alternatives
If you love the look of the invasive wisteria, consider planting the native American wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) to achieve a similar look, without damaging structures or ecosystems. American wisteria is a native plant and a larval host plant for butterflies and moths, including the long-tailed skipper. It grows well in USDA zones 5 to 9.
American Wisteria Photo courtesy of Robert H. Mohlenbrock, hosted by the USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA SCS. 1991.
Invasive wisteria has larger and less dense flower clusters. Photo: UF/IFAS Lauren Goldsby
Invasive Wisteria Removal
Use the lavender colored flowers in the spring to locate invasive wisteria in your landscape. Invasive wisteria has long flower clusters (up to 50cm) and seed pods that are covered in dense hairs. American wisteria has shorter (5-10cm), denser flower clusters and seed pods that are hairless. If the vine you see is growing aggressively in natural areas, it is likely an invasive wisteria. You can always reach out to your local Extension office for help with identification.
Cut the vine as close to the root as possible and apply glyphosate to the cut stem with a sponge or paintbrush. Invasive wisteria can spread from seeds and stems so be careful to remove all plant material and dispose of it in your garbage not your compost bin. If you do not want to apply herbicide you can still cut the main stem but will need to come back to remove sprouts or dig up and remove the root system.
For more recommendations on vining plants that won’t take over, check out this article: Versatile Vines
Florida is synonymous with sand dunes and sea oats and evidence can be seen across the state’s vast shoreline landscape. Sand dunes are an important part of both the ecosystem and as a storm protection measure for coastal communities. Sea oats play an integral role in maintaining this healthy coastal ecosystem.
Sand dune in St. Joe Beach. Credit: Ray Bodrey UF/IFAS Extension
The raw power of ocean waves and seemingly constant weather conditions keep sand in motion on Florida’s beaches. Fortunately, there is a natural mechanism that holds sand in place to stabilize the shoreline. Sand dunes are simply formed though three basic principles: sand, wind and space. The process of dune formation occurs when the ocean pushes sand on shore, wind blows sand further onto the beach and sand gets trapped and accumulates. This creates a frontal and back dune area. Dunes are categorized by many factors, such as size, shape, biodiversity and vegetation. Back dune areas are home to a diverse host of plants and animals. Wildflowers, shrubs, grasses and even trees can be found in the network of hills in the back dune area. Shore birds such as the snowy plover and ruddy turnstone find solace in these areas. The endangered dune mice also live in the back dune areas, as a place of refuge and protection.
With vegetation as a cover, frontal dunes are anchored and tend to stay in place. Storm surges can easily erode dunes without vegetation. This can affect coastal communities in combatting storm surge and flooding. One of the most viable plants that secure dunes is sea oats (Uniola paniculata). This clumping grass is found on both beaches and dunes. The plant gets its common name from the seed head, which looks similar to field oats. Sea oats are extremely drought and salt tolerant. These plants need limited soil fertility to grow, making them the perfect plants for sand dunes. Sea oats also reproduce vegetatively through complex root system call rhizomes. The vast root system caused by rhizomes is a big reason why these plants are excellent at securing sand on dunes. The plant structure is very flexible, so the plant can endure strong coastal winds. Sea oats are native species that help provide habitat for coastal animals, as well.
Recently restored sand dune in St. Joe Beach. Credit: Ray Bodrey, UF/IFAS Extension
Sea oats are protected by law. It is illegal to collect sea oats for any reason in the wild without proper permitting. There are native plant nurseries that propagate sea oat seedlings for dune restoration. For more information on volunteer opportunities to assist in dune restoration, please contact your local county extension office.
The telltale intense growth of a witches’ broom in a pine tree. Photo credit: Keith LeFevre
Our topic today might seem better suited to late October, but it can be observed in the woods year-round. During a recent Master Naturalist class, we discussed the various species of pines that grow in northwest Florida. All seven Florida native species—longleaf, loblolly, pond, slash, shortleaf, sand, and spruce—grow in our area of the state. While they can be differentiated based on growing location, needle length, and growth pattern, one of our class members had seen something really bizarre in the local pines.
A witches’ broom in this spruce tree has resulted in a miniature version growing along its primary trunk. Photo credit: American Conifer Society
What he described was essentially an intense burst of pine needle growth at the tip of a branch. It stands out as deep green, dense, and unusual among the regular growth pattern of needles. The end result is essentially the production of a “mini-me,” a miniature copy of the normally growing tree, hanging off one of the branches. That afternoon while touring Blackwater River State Forest with a professional forester, we asked him about the strange phenomenon. He’d seen it many times and referred to it as a “witches’ broom.”
Mistletoe growing in a tree results from the same type of auxin disturbance as witches’ brooms. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
In normal tree growth, the trunk produces hormones called auxins, which control the division, expansion, and differentiation of cells. The hormones are concentrated in the growing tips of roots and shoots, and auxins maintain normal growth and keep smaller branches from overtaking the “leader.” Unusual growth occurs when the presence and concentration level of auxin is interfered with by an outside factor. The intense growth seen in these affected trees may be triggered in several ways, including pest, fungus, or mistletoe infestation, or death of terminal buds by environmental conditions. Phytoplasmas—bacteria that infect the phloem tissues—transferred by insect vectors (usually leafhoppers) are also blamed for the odd growth in some plants. Pines aren’t the only species affected; witches’ brooms can be found in other conifers like firs and junipers, nut species like hickory, pecan, and walnut, or in ashes, peaches, and elms.
The prolific growth of witches’ brooms is of great interest to horticulturists hoping to propagate dwarf varieties of the trees. This post by the American Conifer Society goes into great detail on how to “hunt”, cultivate, and encourage the growth of witches’ brooms into dwarf plants for the home landscape. Ecologically, witches’ brooms are not a huge problem for their host trees. Unless vulnerable to a massive outbreak of parasitic mistletoe, trees usually continue growing around them and live normal lifespans. The dense brush can even benefit wildlife, becoming a ready-made nest for birds or tree-dwelling mammals.
When most people think of insects, they think of the bad ones, but not all insects are bad! Insects are labeled as bad or ‘pests’ when they start causing harm to people or the things we care about such as plants, animals, and buildings but most insects are GOOD! In fact, of the millions of insect species found throughout the world, less than 2% are actually considered pests. There are several different ways insects can be beneficial in your garden or landscape:
They prey on pest insects. Many species of insects eat pest insects! For example, lady beetles (ladybugs) and lacewings eat pest insects like aphids, mealybugs and whiteflies. They can help keep insect populations in balance. It’s important to recognize some of the beneficial insect species (and their different life cycle stages) that you might find in your garden. The UF/IFAS Extension bookstore has a great identification guide: Helpful, Harmful, Harmless?
They parasitize pest insects. Some species of good insects live in or on pest insects. For example, parasitoid wasps lay their eggs into pest insects and when the wasp eggs hatch, they feed on the pest species. Here’s a really great video to show the process: Parasitic Wasps – National Geographic
They pollinate. Many of the good insects like native bees, honeybees, butterflies and moths help us pollinate our gardens. They transfer pollen grains from flower to flower that help plants bear fruit.
They decompose. Insects also help aerate our soils by breaking down dead material and recycling nutrients. Dung beetles are a great example! They bury and consume dung which improves soil quality.
One of the best things you can do for your garden is learn to differentiate pest insect species from beneficial ones! Just because you see an insect on your plant, doesn’t necessarily mean it is causing harm. If you see an insect, are you seeing injury to the plant? If so, what type of injury (defoliation, yellowing, leaf curling)? If you aren’t seeing injury, then you may not have anything to worry about. If you find something you’re unsure of, you can always reach out to your local UF/IFAS Extension Agent!
Pipevine swallowtail on Azalea.
Attracting and encouraging beneficial insects can really help your garden and landscape thrive. The best way to attract beneficial insects to your garden or landscape is to have lots of plant diversity. A mix of trees, shrubs, annual and perennial flowers in the landscape is best. Trees and shrubs will provide shelter for insects to overwinter, and flowers provide pollen and nectar.
Flowers in the carrot family (Apiaceae) such as caraway, coriander, cilantro, dill and fennel are attractive for parasitic wasps. Flowers in the Aster family (Asteraceae) such as blanketflower, coneflower, coreopsis, cosmos and goldenrod are attractive for larger predators like lady beetles and soldier beetles. These can be incorporated into the garden or flower beds.
Attracting wildlife is one of the Florida Friendly Landscaping principles. However, some species are better observed from long distance. Deer are beautiful creatures and taste pretty good too, but they can wreak havoc to a landscape and to fruits and vegetables. There are a number of methods to deter deer, but you’ll need to keep them guessing to limit damage to your yard.
A plant cage formed from metal fencing. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, UF/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
Physical Barriers – This deterrent method may be the most effective if installed correctly, but it can also be costly and requires the most labor and engineering to install.
Temporary Deer Fencing – Plastic mesh fencing can temporarily keep deer away from plantings. This material can be draped over plants or attached to posts or fencing with plastic ties or wire.
Hardware Cloth and Seedling Tubing – Hardware cloth can be formed into different shapes or secured to small structures to form a barrier around small plants. UV-inhibited polyethylene and polypropylene mesh seedling tubes can be bent into cylinders and placed around young shrubs and trees to protect them from foraging deer and other wildlife.
Garden Fencing – There are a variety of gauges available for this fencing. Heavier gauges are recommended to help keep deer out. It’s important to note that most adult deer can jump 7 feet high, so a fence height of at least 8 feet is recommended.
Electric Fencing – Peanut butter can be spread on a single strand of electric wire to encourage deer to check it out. More permanent electric fences can be installed, but are significantly more expensive.
Scare Items – Deer are skittish to things that are unfamiliar to them. However, it doesn’t take them long to adapt.
Ribbons and Tape – Light-weight ribbons and tape fluttering in the wind can help deter deer. Holographic and iridescent foil materials have shown the best results because they reflect sunlight and create more noise in the wind.
Motion Activated Sprinklers – Hitting a deer directly and the sound of water being turned on are deterrents for deer and other wildlife. It is best to periodically move the location of these sprinklers to improve their effectiveness.
Noisemakers – Whistles, firecrackers, and propane cannons can annoy deer, and people too. Unfortunately, deer become accustomed to these tactics. It is best to use noisemakers in combination with other deterrent methods.
Dogs – Just having a dog around can help keep deer away. Even if it’s a dog that has no care to bark at or chase a deer, its scent alone may be enough to deter them.
A motion activated sprinkler used to deter wildlife from a raised bed garden. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, UF/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County
Chemical Repellents – A plethora of chemicals are marketed as deer deterrents. These products can work as odors, create bad tastes, or incite fear. Common ingredients include capsaicin, predator urine, egg solids, garlic, and soap. A number of factors can contribute to the effectiveness of chemical repellents including the growth stage of the plants to be protected and frequency of reapplication,
Resistant Plants – Deer eat almost anything. They sometimes even eat so-called “deer resistant plants”. However, the plants listed below are less desirable to deer. For a more comprehensive list of plant susceptibility to deer damage please visit the archived publication “Ornamental plant susceptibility to damage by deer in Florida”.
Trees – Deer will rub on almost any tree, but a few they are less likely to eat include: bottlebrush, sabal palm, crape myrtle, edible fig, loquat, live oak, magnolia, and yaupon holly.
Shrubs – Some shrubs that deer are less likely to eat include: mahonia, viburnum, wax myrtle, juniper, and most evergreen azaleas.
Annuals and Perennials – There are quite a few annuals and perennials that have shown signs of resistance to deer including: black-eyed Susan, bush daisy, cone flower, dusty miller, marigold, and salvia.
