It’s a bit early still for blueberries in north Florida, but they are definitely on the horizon. We have a handful of bushes at home and the office, and I’ve noticed the white blooms are gone and berries are forming as we speak. Many of us, myself included, look forward to the late-spring harvest of blueberries, taking our children out to u-pick operations and hunting down family recipes for blueberry-filled desserts.
Often, when people think of fruit growing in the wild, their minds naturally go to tropical rainforests, with visions of bananas, mangoes, and drooping fruit-laden trees. But blueberries are a home-grown local Panhandle fruit. A walk through any self-respecting northwest Florida wooded area is bound to have blueberry bushes growing wild. Vaccinium species thrive in more acidic soil, (between 4-6 on pH scale), which we have in abundance here. In northwest Florida, we have lots of pines and oaks dropping needles and leaves, seasoning our soil to a 6 or lower on the pH scale. Central and south Florida soils are alkaline due to all of the natural limestone, so while blueberries are grown on farms down south, they’re rarer in the wild.
Blueberries are pollinated by bees of many stripes, but most people are unaware of the specialized bee that literally lives for this season. During the last few weeks, this species has been furiously pollinating blueberry bushes during its short, single-purpose lifetime.
The blueberry bee uses “buzz pollination” on blueberry shrubs. Photo by Tyler Jones.
Southeastern blueberry bees (Habropoda labriosa) are active only in mid-March to April when blueberry plants are in flower. They are smaller than bumblebees, and yellow patches on their heads can differentiate males. Blueberry pollen is heavy and sticky, so it is not blown by the wind, and the flower anatomy is such that pollen from the male anther will not just fall onto the female stigma. Blueberry bees must instead attach themselves to the flower and rapidly vibrate their flight muscles, shaking the pollen out. Moving to the next flower, the bee’s vibrations will drop pollen from the first flower onto the next one. This phenomenon is called “sonicating” or ‘buzz pollination” and is the most effective method of creating a prolific blueberry crop.
The blueberry bee has a solitary and nearly single-focused lifestyle, yet one of great importance. Photo courtesy USGS
This native bee lives most of its life underground, emerging in the spring when blueberries are in bloom and living long enough to pollinate the plants. Blueberry bees do not form hives, but create solitary nests in open, sunny, high ground. Females will dig a tunnel with a brood chamber large enough for one larva, filling it with nectar and pollen. After laying an egg, the female seals the chamber and the next generation is ready. The species produces only one generation of adults per year.
By the time we are picking fresh blueberries in May and June, you probably won’t see any blueberry bees around. However, we should all consider these insects’ short-lived but vitally important role in Florida’s $70 million/year blueberry industry!
Some citrus is recovering from our December 2022 hard freeze and pruning will be needed. Learn to identify your tree’s graft and how to prune away any rootstock material with UF IFAS Extension Escambia County.
An activity during our No Mow March campaign was for participants to document flowers and pollinators from their landscapes. This activity was available through an INaturalist group specific to No Mow March. Although we only had 13 participants, they made 85 observations representing 50 species of plants and insects.
The photo that was selected as the favorite is the Clasping Venus’s Looking Glass, Triodanis perfoliate, by Martha W. This was around the Tallahassee, FL area. Martha received an electric edger, battery, and charger.
We hope to have more participants in our photo collection next year as we observe the plants and pollinators visiting our landscapes when we don’t mow.
No Mow March was an awesome success this year! Together, by leaving some unmown areas of our lawns and landscapes, we helped create acres of additional valuable pollinator habitat in a critical time of the year. However, we can’t forget that there are still nine months remaining in which we can provide low-maintenance food and shelter for pollinators and other wildlife in our landscapes this year! The following are three of my favorite ultra-low maintenance pollinator friendly shrubs for Panhandle landscapes for summer and fall.
Chaste Tree (Vitex agnus-castus)
Chaste tree or vitex, an outstanding Florida-Friendly Landscape shrub/small tree, provides many aesthetic and wildlife landscape benefits throughout the growing season. Vitex features attractive grayish-green foliage and grows into a nice, rounded shape (10-15’ tall). However, the primary draw is its summer/fall flower show. Sporting striking masses of purplish-blue flowers for months on end until frost, Vitex is a pollinator magnet. Bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and all manner of other pollinators visit vitex when in bloom and birds frequent the shrub in the fall to feed on its seeds. Simply select a site with full sun and well-drained soil and Vitex will reward gardeners and pollinators for years to come.
Firebush (Hamelia patens)
Firebush is a showstopper for both passers-by and pollinators. This sorta native shrub (Florida native but does not occur naturally in the Panhandle), is a prolific producer of tubular, bright-red flowers from late spring-through frost. These flowers are a preferred nectar source for many species of butterflies, Zebra longwing and Gulf Fritillary included, and a favorite of hummingbirds. Like vitex, birds also enjoy feeding on the berries that follow firebush flowers. In the Panhandle, firebush tops out at around 6’ tall and about as wide and is often killed back to the ground by frost, regrowing rapidly each spring. Firebush has no real insect or disease issues in landscapes and prefers the same sites as Vitex and will appreciate as much sun as you can give it and well-drained soil.
Bright orange-red blooms on a firebush. Photo courtesy UF/IFAS.
American Beautyberry (Callicarpa americana)
American beautyberry, or just Beautyberry as it is commonly referred to, is a lovely little deciduous shrub native to all parts of Florida and provides benefits to all manner of landscape wildlife. Though primarily known for its bird-attracting, vibrant purple berry clusters that appear late summer through fall, Beautyberry is a host plant for several butterfly/moth species and its dainty, pink flowers are an early summer favorite of many bees! Beautyberry grows 5-7’ in height and is extremely adaptable in landscapes as well, thriving in sun or light shade and many different soil conditions.
American Beautyberry
Photo by: UF/IFAS
It’s important to remember that providing pollinator/bird food and habitat in lawns and landscapes is not a one month event, but a year round commitment. Reducing mowing frequency, reducing pesticide use, planting native trees, including host and nectar annuals/perennials in landscape beds, and yes, planting native fauna friendly shrubs like vitex, firebush, and American beautyberry are all part of maintaining a pollinator-friendly yard! Plant one (or several) today! For more information on creating pollinator habitat in landscapes or any other horticultural topic, contact your local UF/IFAS County Extension Office.
As the weather warms up, people will be outside tending to their landscapes more often. Part of that tending involves a simple thing that everyone knows plants need: water. And that is correct! Plants DO need water, and most of them need it regularly. However, even with the sandy soils in our area that drain quickly, it is possible to overwater your plants!
Overwatering can cause patchy dieback of shrubs and trees.
It is not uncommon to have a dry spell in the spring or fall in North Florida. Weeks may pass by with little or no rain, until the summer rains settle in. People may set their irrigation systems to deal with the lack of rain, but then forget to change the settings once the water isn’t needed. When plants receive too much water, we see a number of things happen. Trees and shrubs may appear to be deficient of nutrients, displaying yellowed leaves. They may die back and have a patchy appearance. Sprinklers that run constantly and splash water on leaves may increase the number of fungal diseases that plants get. Lawns that stay too damp may start seeing moisture-loving weeds such as dollarweed pop up in profusion. Luckily, we do have some guidelines for how much we should water.
For lawns or landscape plants, it is important to know what plants you are dealing with. Different plants have different needs when it comes to irrigation. Plants should be grouped by their water (and light) needs in a landscape, and irrigation zones should be set with those groupings in mind. Plants that enjoy or tolerate more water include wax myrtle, yaupon holly, swamp sunflower, swamp milkweed, pond cypress, and river birch. Others enjoy drier and well-drained soils, such as yucca, oleander, false rosemary, and turkey oak. To help determine the cultural needs of various plants, try consulting the Florida Friendly Landscaping Guide to Plant Selection and Landscape Design or the Florida Native Plant Society’s website.
When deciding whether or not to irrigate, one thing to pay attention to is the weather. All too often sprinkler systems will continue to run despite the weather – even in the middle of a thunderstorm! Install a rainfall shutoff device or make sure yours is functioning properly to avoid this. Overwatering can lead to unhealthy plants, disease issues, and weed problems.
Improperly placed or calibrated sprinklers can lead to lawn problems!
It can help to learn what a thirsty lawn looks like. Turfgrass that needs a drink will fold up its leaves, become dull bluish-green in color, and footprints will remain instead of the grass springing back. When signs of drought stress are evident, it’s time to water.
How much to water? The recommended amount is ½ to ¾ inch of water per application. Different irrigation emitters put out different amounts of water over time, so some measurement is necessary. Put out some small, straight-sided cans such as tuna or cat food cans in the area to be measured, run the irrigation for 15 minutes, and then measure how deep the water is in the cans. If you’ve collected ¼ inch of water in that time, you’ll know that you need to run the system for 30-45 minutes to give your lawn a thorough watering.
For more watering tips, there is plenty of information available. Check out these links:
