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Pro-Tips for Dealing with Problem Oaks and Other Brush in the Home Landscape

Pro-Tips for Dealing with Problem Oaks and Other Brush in the Home Landscape

Not all trees and woody species are welcome in the landscape. In fact, some woody species can be pesky and problematic and for lack of a better term “weeds”. Despite the fact that some of these species are native trees, bushes, and vines, many can be aggressive and problematic in the home landscape and urban settings. If you have ever cared for a flower bed or garden in the Panhandle, you are probably well acquainted with these and have pulled seedlings and small saplings out of beds, hedges, and seemingly any other nook and cranny of your landscape. If you cut them off using loppers or a saw you also know how aggressively they resprout and how extensive their root system can become. Vegetation grows quickly and often aggressively in our humid sub-tropical climates. If you leave an area of land vacant for very long here, it quickly becomes a thicket in no time. Some of our oaks, particularly water and laurel oaks, can be pesky and troublesome. It seems like I am constantly battling problem oaks in my home landscape, with varying degrees of success. I will pull out, cut out, and apply herbicide only to look up and see a substantial oak sapling rocketing up through azaleas or other hedges. Without fail this is a water or laurel oak nearly 100% of the time, with some other hardwood trees and shrub species thrown in occasionally.

Oak sapling overtaking shrubbery in a local landscape Escambia County, FL Photo Credit: Ian Stone

What is the best way to tackle these pesky woody “weeds” when they cause persistent problems and pop up in undesirable spaces? The answer is to either mechanically removal them or employ very careful and targeted herbicide application. As a professional forester I have spent a large part of my career controlling these brush species using a host of mechanical and herbicide control methods and very well planned prescribed fires. Obviously using large heavy machinery and prescribed fire in urban and suburban settings and landscapes is not an option but using hand tools for mechanical removal and herbicides where needed and best suited is a winning combo for the home landscape.

First you want to determine what species you are dealing with and what stage of development it is in. As I mentioned, water oak and laurel oak are usually the problem oaks we encounter and can reproduce at extremely high rates and create undesirable crowded stands of stunted oak. These species are what foresters call early successional, meaning they tend to establish in forest openings and areas impacted by a disturbance such as a hurricane or windstorm. They produce large amounts of small acorns and grow very fast and they also have poor characteristics where they are susceptible to wind throw and disease. Effectively, they reproduce heavily, grow fast, and die young; that is their natural adaptation and life cycle and what causes them to be pesky and weedy in the home landscape. We don’t realize it, but our home lawns and flower beds create the perfect early successional habitat for these oaks and other brush species such as yaupon holly, titi, wax myrtle, and others. It doesn’t stop there – in heavily shaded areas, very shade tolerant oaks, brush, and vines tend to become established.  Vines such as Virginia creeper, greenbriers (Smilax spp.), pepper-vine, and others are particularly annoying as these woody species also love to grow up in fences, particularly chain link, and are difficult to remove.

So what are the best methods to handle problem woody species in the home landscape? The best option is to catch them as seedlings and young plants and pull them up by the roots and all. If you can do this, you will avoid issues with resprouting. If you have larger, more well-established brush and small trees in your landscape, you can cut them back close to the ground, but you are likely to have issues with resprouting. This can be very frustrating and can result in a persistent problem. By consistently cutting these back you may be able to exhaust the plant’s reserve, but this is unlikely. Depending on the size of the root system you may be able to dig up the roots using some elbow grease and a shovel or mattock, but if significant roots are left behind, some woody species can resprout from the remaining roots.  This is when simply cutting off the main stem or other mechanical methods often are not sufficient for long term control.

When dealing with well-established woody species with a significant stem size, using a properly labeled and effective herbicide can be a big time and hassle saver. You want to use a herbicide that is labeled for hack and squirt applications and/or cut stump applications. Many brush control and tough brush herbicides are labeled this way and can be applied using these methods. Herbicides with the active ingredients of triclopyr or glyphosate are the most effective for these methods and readily available for home use. Triclopyr products are usually the most effective on tough brush and woody species. Make sure the species you are targeting is listed on the label and follow the label directions exactly for the methods and concentrations to apply the herbicide correctly.

Oak resprouting from stump after herbicide treatment. Note the deformed leaves on the regrowth showing herbicide damage. Photo Credit: Ian Stone

Cut stump and hack and squirt applications require a bit of a different method of application. Instead of spraying foliage, you apply the herbicide into fresh cuts using a squirt bottle or a paint brush. You should wear proper protective equipment when working with any herbicide and this is also listed in the label. Long sleeves and pants along with chemical resistant gloves and eye protection is usually the minimum recommended. For hack and squirt, make a series of connecting cuts in a ring around the problem stem and squirt the herbicide mixture into the fresh cuts using the squirt bottle. For cut stump treatments cut the stem(s) of the problem tree or shrub off slightly above the ground and apply the mixture using a paint brush or squirt bottle, focusing on the outer portion of the stump right next to the bark. These methods work by introducing the herbicide to the cambium layer, which is the actively growing and live tissue just under the bark in woody plants. By doing this it will travel through the tissue and kill both the roots and stems. It is very important that the cuts are fresh, and the application must be made as soon as possible after the cuts are completed. Once the brush is killed back, you can wait for the stem or stump to rot or remove it once it has completely died. This method is effective at controlling resprouting but is not 100% effective on all applications. If the woody plant in question continues to resprout, you can make fresh cuts and reapply. An advantage of this method is it can be done in winter even when the plant is dormant, as it does not rely on foliage to uptake the herbicide. That means you can use it year-round, and you can take advantage of the cooler winter weather to do this labor-intensive work.

With careful work and proper technique, these methods can be beneficial to control persistent brush problems in the home landscape. When using herbicides it is very important to be aware of off target damage to desirable plants. One of the advantages of hack and squirt and cut stump applications is that they are very targeted and minimize issues with off target damage and drift. Care should be taken not to get the herbicide mixture on the stems of desirable shrubs and trees, and they can penetrate the bark and do damage, especially on thin barked species. If you have questions about how to properly use a herbicide or reading the label contact your local extension office.

Tree Planting Tips

Tree Planting Tips

A newly planted tree with water retention berm.

A planted tree with water retention berm. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County

Extension agents are frequently tasked with evaluation of unhealthy plants in the landscape.  They diagnose all sorts of plant problems including those caused by disease infection, insect infiltration, or improper culture.

When evaluating trees, one problem that often comes to the surface is improper tree installation.  Although poorly installed trees may survive for 10 or 15 years after planting, they rarely thrive and often experience a slow death.

Fall is an excellent time to plant a tree in Florida.  A couple of weeks ago beautiful Nuttall Oak was planted at Bagdad Mill Site Park in Santa Rosa County, FL.  Here are 11 easy steps to follow for proper tree installation:

  1. Look around and up for wire, light poles, and buildings that may interfere with growth;
  2. Dig a shallow planting hole as wide as possible;
  3. Find the point where the top-most root emerges from the trunk;
  4. Slide the tree carefully into the planting hole;
  5. Position the point where the top-most root emerges from the trunk slightly above the landscape soil surface;
  6. Straighten the tree in the hole;
  7. Remove synthetic materials from around trunk and root ball;
  8. Slice a shovel down in to the back fill;
  9. Cover the exposed sides of the root ball with mulch and create water retention berm;
  10. Stake the tree if necessary;
  11. Come back to remove hardware after establishment.A hole being dug for a tree to be planted.

Digging a properly sized hole for planting a tree. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County

Removing synthetic material from the root ball.

Removing synthetic material from the root ball. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida/IFAS Extension – Santa Rosa County

Straightening a tree and adjusting planting height.

Straightening a tree and adjusting planting height. Photo Credit: Matt Lollar, University of Florida – Santa Rosa County

For more detailed information on planting trees and shrubs visit this UF/IFAS Website – “Steps to Planting a Tree”.

For more information Nuttall Oaks visit this University of Arkansas Website.

Gardener’s To-Do-List for November

Gardener’s To-Do-List for November

Red Maple

Red Maple structure IFAS Photo: Hassing, G.

Though the calendar says November, the weather in Northwest Florida is still producing summer or at least spring-like temperatures.  The nice days are wonderful opportunities to accomplish many of those outside landscape chores.  But, it is also a good time to start planning for next month’s colder temperatures.  Since we don’t experience frozen soil, winter is the best time to transplant hardy trees and shrubs.  Deciduous trees establish root systems more quickly while dormant; versus installing them in the spring with all their tender new leaves.

Remove an inch or more for extremely rootbound trees.

Here are a few suggestions for tasks that can be performed this month:

  • Plant shade trees, fruit trees, and evergreen shrubs.
  • Do major re-shaping of shade trees, if needed, during the winter dormancy.
  • Check houseplants for insect pests such as scale, mealy bugs, fungus gnats, whitefly and spider mites.
  • Continue to mulch leaves from the lawn. Shred excess leaves and add to planting beds or compost pile.
  • Replenish finished compost and mulch in planting beds, preferably before the first freeze.
  • Switch sprinkler systems to ‘Manual’ mode for the balance of winter.
  • Water thoroughly before a hard freeze to reduce plants’ chances of damage.
  • Water lawn and all other plants once every three weeks or so, if supplemental rainfall is less than one inch in a three week period.
  • Fertilize pansies and other winter annuals as needed.
  • Build protective coverings or moving devices for tender plants before the freeze warming.
  • Be sure to clean, sharpen and repair all your garden and lawn tools. Now is also the best time to clean and have your power mower, edger and trimmer serviced.
  • Be sure the mower blade is sharpened and balanced as well.
  • Provide food and water to the area’s wintering birds.

    Mowing a lawn.

    Mowing a lawn. Photo Credit: University of Florida/IFAS

The Florida Pecan: A Fall Treat

The Florida Pecan: A Fall Treat

Pecan trees are a southern staple in the states of Alabama, Georgia, and North Florida, prized for their delicious nuts and gorgeous additions they make to the landscape. During October and November, we start to see the mature pecan nuts fall to the ground and these can be dried and stored for many months, making them a long-lasting and rewarding crop. Here is what you need to know to install pecan trees of your own at home.

Pecan tree grove in North Florida. UF/IFAS Photo: Thomas Wright.

Choosing the Right Variety

Florida’s warm climate and extended growing season creates excellent conditions for pecan trees. But not all pecan tree varieties thrive in Florida’s climate. Because of the humid conditions that the state presents, some varieties are more susceptible to common diseases such as pecan scab. The recommended varieties for Florida include:

  • ‘Elliot,’ ‘Excel,’ ‘Lakota,’ and ‘Sumner’ are typically the first varieties to be recommended because they have an excellent resistance to pecan scab.
  • ‘Cape Fear,’ ‘Caddo,’ ‘Desirable,’ and ‘Kiowa’ are recommended on a case-by-case basis due to their high quality nut production but will require constant scouting due to their low disease resistance. These varieties are typically seen on a commercial production scale.
  • The ‘Stuart’ pecan tree produces high quality pecans, but it can take up to 10 years to see any signs of production, so it is not commonly installed into the home landscape.

When planting your pecan trees, be sure to purchase trees from reputable and certified nurseries to ensure healthy, disease-resistant plants that produce high-quality nuts.

Planting and Soil Requirements

Pecan trees need well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 – 6.5. If you are unsure of your soil’s pH, it is wise to take a soil sample prior to installing your trees. Contact your local UF/IFAS Extension office for more information. Here are a few things to consider when planting pecans:

  • Site Requirement: It is important to remember that pecan trees require full sun and plenty of space to grow, as they can reach at least 70 feet in height with a wide canopy. They will need to be planted away from structures and power lines.
  • Planting Depth: Pecan trees should be planted during the dormant season (November-February) and require a planting hole no bigger than 2 feet wide and 2 ½ feet deep to allow the taproot to extend directly into the ground.
  • Tree Spacing: Older trees need to be spaced at least 60 to 80 feet apart. But younger trees or newly planted trees need to be spaced not as far as this. Pecan trees must cross-pollinate to produce nuts, so they must be close enough to share their pollen but far enough apart to not hinder the other trees’ root growth. Initial spacing can range from 30 to 40 feet apart.

Pecan tree grove in North Florida. UF/IFAS Photo: Thomas Wright.

Fertilization and Watering

Young pecan trees need consistent watering after recently being transplanted to help establish their root system efficiently. Once established, pecan trees be relatively drought tolerant, but still benefit from deep watering during the dry periods. Irrigation is the most critical during the establishment of the first year. For the first 2 years of the tree’s life, they may require up to 10 gallons of water per day based on the current weather conditions. For fertilizer, apply 10-10-10 in early March through June. Fertilizer should be applied in a circle around the trunk of the tree. Avoid placing fertilizer directly against the trunk of the tree.

Growing pecan trees in Florida requires some planning and maintenance, but the rewards are well worth the effort. With the right variety selection, planting care, and attention to irrigation, you can have a bountiful harvest of homegrown pecans for your family to enjoy Whether you’re planting a single tree or a establishing a small orchard, pecan trees are a valuable and delicious to any Florida landscape. For more information, please visit:

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS229

https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/trees/pecan/

 

Hollies for Winter Interest

Hollies for Winter Interest

Winter color is not always easy to find here in Florida. While staple annuals such as snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus) require planning and extra effort in the autumn.  Instead, envision a perennial powerhouse that will not only provide colorful berries when the temperature drops but is a pollinator magnet in the spring.  The Holly tree (Ilex spp.) perfectly embodies this vision. These low-maintenance evergreens, with their waxy leaves and colorful berries, are a sight to behold in your landscape, whether as a hedge or an accent plant.

Where and How to Plant

Hollies generally prefer partial shade and well-drained soils. However, exceptions exist, such as the Dahoon holly (Ilex cassine), adapted to wetter environments. Whatever cultivar you place in your landscape, following the planting and care instructions is crucial. Plant it in a hole approximately one foot wider than the root ball. Dig deep enough to cover most of the root ball but shallow enough so the uppermost root is slightly above the soil line. This may be counterintuitive, but roots need air to thrive, and shallow planting allows infiltration in the rhizosphere. To regulate soil temperature and soil moisture, add a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant.  It is critical to leave some space between the tree trunk and mulch.

Holly Tree

Photo: Edward Gilman, UF/IFAS.

Cultural Practices for Success

Irrigation is critical to establishing these plants, which should take between 3 and 6 months. Once established, cease irrigation except in drought conditions. Don’t apply too much water in either case, as hollies will suffer with wet feet. Fertilizers should be applied twice yearly in March and September. Have your soil tested before applying fertilizer to ensure a complete nutrient profile.

Pruning is not routinely required with holly trees. It is advisable to remove dead, diseased, and dysfunctional branches.  Dysfunctional branches are those that grow back toward the main leader of the tree.  These risk rubbing against one another, causing wounds that may become infiltration sites for pathogens. You should also remove sprouts coming from the root zone, commonly called suckers.

Potential Issues

Pests and pathogens are infrequent in hollies and are usually the product of improper growing practices. Occasionally, scale or spittlebug insects can infest the tree. Their presence will be punctuated by the appearance of blackened leaves, which is a symptom of sooty mold. Scouting these plants often will allow early detection and control of these pests. Some pathogens may also affect these trees. Most often, these are fungi caused by excessive moisture. Look for dieback or strange growth patterns in the plant’s foliage. When you see these, make sure the roots are not waterlogged.

Holly branch suffering dieback

Photo: UF/IFAS

Summing Things Up

Hollies are an excellent and low maintenance addition to any landscape.  Their berries and flowering patterns provide multiple seasons of interest and are a resource for birds and pollinators alike.  For more information on Florida wildflowers, see these Ask IFAS documents, or contact your local extension agent for additional information on this and any topic regarding your gardens and more.