Many of the Mexican petunia plants, Ruellia simplex, growing in the landscape along the Gulf Coast are covered in white patches. The leaves appear to be growing fur, actual hairs, much denser than the dust of powdery mildew fungus. Excessive development of leaf trichomes, or surface hairs is referred to as erinea. The “fuzz” is the plant’s response to the feeding of eriophyid mites, also called gall mites. These native tiny, microscopic mites feed on the Mexican petunia leaves and stems, causing the plant to produce the white velvety masses. The distorted tissue provides shelter so the mites can continue to feed without being impacted by the weather or contact pesticide applications. Hot, dry conditions favor mite population increases. We have had plenty of that. However, the native mites are not likely to kill the invasive Mexican petunia, so they are not acting as an effective biological control for the plant.
Mexican petunia damage from the eriophyid mite.
Control of this native eriophyid mite begins with heavy foliage removal. Cutting the plants back to just a few inches above the ground removes the infested portion of the plant. The pruned parts need to be placed in a tightly sealed plastic bag before being sent to the landfill. If the location allows burning on-site, that is an even better option. Remember that these mites can feed on many other plants if allowed to escape. They have caused galls in crape myrtle, loropetalum, and hollies, as well as, vectoring diseases like rose rosette.
Then comes the tough decision. If the Mexican petunia is not one of the new sterile cultivars should the new growth be protected as it grows back? If you didn’t plant them or don’t remember what they were called when you purchased them, there is still a way to determine whether they are the invasive Mexican petunia or not. Invasive Mexican petunia produces seed after flowering. Were there any seed pods on the pruned parts? If so, you may consider killing off the entire planting. Several applications of a total vegetation herbicide with surfactant will remove them, leaving you a spot for a new purple flower, maybe a porterweed (Stachytarpheta), verbena or blue salvia.
Blue porterweed can be a substitute for non sterile Ruellia. Photo by Beth Bolles UF IFAS Escambia Extension
If your plants are sterile (have no seed pods), an application of horticultural oil and/or a miticide like abamectin sprayed with each flush of new growth will produce a pretty bed of purple flowers in a short period of time.
Flint corn is one of the oldest varieties of corn and has been cultivated by Native American tribes for thousands of years. Photo by Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org.
The Ancient Journey of Native Vegetables
The Americas are not only a land of beautiful landscapes and diverse cultures but also the birthplace of a remarkable array of indigenous plant species. Native vegetables have played a significant role in shaping the culinary traditions, cultural practices, and biodiversity of the region. To truly appreciate their significance, it is important to delve into their fascinating history and observe how they have evolved over time.
The cultivation of vegetables in North America, Central America, South America, and the Caribbean dates back thousands of years, with evidence of early farming practices emerging in Mesoamerica (central Mexico southward through Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica) around 9,000 BCE (Before Common Era), or about 11,000 years ago. Native peoples, including indigenous tribes, recognized the value of native plant species and skillfully cultivated them to meet their nutritional needs. Through trial and error, they learned to adapt and enhance the growth of these vegetables, setting the foundation for the crops we know today.
Squash has been an important agricultural crop for thousands of years. Photo by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org.
Maize. Maize (Zea mays), or corn, holds a central place in the history of American agriculture. It is believed to have originated from a wild grass called teosinte, which had few small, hard kernels enclosed in a tough husk. It was much smaller than the corn we know today and was barely edible, tasting more like a raw dried potato, with only a few hard kernels per ear. Ancient societies in present-day Mexico began domesticating maize 9,000 to 10,000 years ago, selectively breeding it to produce a variety of colors, sizes, and textures. Maize quickly became a staple crop, providing sustenance and shaping the cultural and economic practices of many indigenous civilizations, such as the Mayans and the Aztecs. Over time, its cultivation gradually spread northward, reaching present-day United States and Canada.
Squash. Squash (Cucurbita spp.) holds a significant place in the ancient history of the Americas, with evidence of its domestication dating back approximately 8,000 to 10,000 years ago. Native peoples in various regions, including Mesoamerica and North America, recognized the value of the flesh and seeds of squash as versatile and nutritious food sources. Domestication involved selecting and cultivating wild squash varieties with desirable traits, leading to the development of different cultivated squash varieties such as acorn, delicata, butternut, and zucchini.
The colorful seeds of Anasazi beans, named after the Anasazi Native American tribe who inhabited the Four Corners region of the United States from about 200 BCE to 1300 CE. Photo by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org.
Beans. Common beans (Phaseolus spp.) have a rich and ancient history in the Americas, with evidence of their domestication dating back around 7,000 to 8,000 years in the region that is now Peru. Native peoples in Mesoamerica and the Andean region recognized the nutritional value and versatility of beans, incorporating them into their agricultural practices. Cultivated by civilizations such as the Maya, Aztecs, and Inca, beans were an essential staple crop alongside maize and squash. The domestication of beans allowed for the cultivation of various species, including kidney, lima, and black beans.
The Three Sisters. The “Three Sisters” have deep historical roots in ancient American agriculture, with evidence of their use over 7,000 years ago. This system, practiced by various indigenous civilizations, especially in Mesoamerica and North America, involved the intercropping of three key crops: maize, beans, and squash. Maize served as the central component, providing a tall stalk for the beans to climb. Beans enriched the soil with nitrogen through their symbiotic relationship with bacteria, allowing them to convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that the plants can utilize. Squash, with its broad leaves, acted as a living mulch, reducing weeds and retaining soil moisture.
The Three Sisters synergistic trio enhanced soil fertility, prevented erosion, and yielded a nutritionally balanced diet for generations of indigenous communities. It also fostered a deep connection between humans and the land, emphasizing a holistic approach to farming that honored the interdependence of crops and the environment.
Despite their notoriety in Ireland, potatoes originated in the Andean region of South America. Photo by Edward Sikora, Auburn University, Bugwood.org.
Potatoes. While potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are commonly associated with Ireland, they actually originated in the Andean region of South America, what is now Peru and Bolivia, between 7,000 to 10,000 years ago. Long before European arrival, Native Americans were cultivating potatoes. Over time, they developed different varieties of potatoes, adapting them to suit various climates and growing conditions. It wasn’t until the exploration and colonization of the New World in the 16th century that potatoes were introduced to Europe, eventually becoming a staple food crop there.
Tomatoes. Similar to the association of potatoes with Ireland, tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are often associated with Italian cuisine, including pasta sauces and pizza. And like potatoes, tomatoes also have an ancient history in the Americas, with evidence of their domestication dating back about 7,000 years. Native to western South America, particularly in the region that is now Peru and Ecuador, wild tomato species were cultivated by indigenous civilizations. Initially, tomatoes were smaller and had a more varied range of colors beyond red, including yellow and purple. Through years of selective breeding and cultivation, larger red varieties became more prevalent. Over time, the ancient Mesoamerican civilizations to the north, such as the Maya and Aztecs, adopted tomatoes into their agriculture and diet. Following the European colonization of the Americas, tomatoes were introduced to other parts of the world in the 16th and 17th centuries, where their popularity and cultivation spread widely.
Habanero peppers are believed to have originated in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico and have been cultivated for centuries. Photo by Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org.
Peppers. Peppers (Capsicum spp.), or chili peppers, also originated in the Americas, specifically in regions that now belong to Mexico, Peru, and Bolivia. They were domesticated around 6,000 years ago and played significant roles in the cultures and diets of ancient civilizations like the Aztecs and Mayans. Peppers were introduced to other parts of the world through the exploration and trade routes of Spanish and Portuguese explorers. They played a significant role in spreading peppers to Europe, Asia, and Africa during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Some Other American Crops. There is a rich variety of lesser-known crops that originated in the Americas as well. Amaranth and quinoa, originating from the Andean region, are highly nutritious, rich in protein and essential amino acids. Chia seeds, native to Central and South America, have many culinary uses. Yucca, a traditional starchy root vegetable, has been cultivated in tropical regions for centuries. Fruits such as guava, papaya, and passion fruit originated from the Americas and have unique flavor profiles. Finally, the sunchoke, also known as Jerusalem artichoke, is a North American root vegetable known for its nutty taste and abundant dietary fiber.
The ancient journey of native vegetables in the Americas highlights their significance in shaping agriculture, culture, and nutrition. By embracing this ancient journey, we not only honor the wisdom and traditions of indigenous communities but also ensure a sustainable and inclusive future where diverse crops and food systems thrive, preserving the rich biodiversity and cultural legacy for generations to come.
When you hear the word “pollinator”, what is the first insect that comes to mind? If I had to guess, you would probably say honey bee. European honey bees play an important role in agriculture as pollinators and honey producers, but there are hundreds of native pollinators often overshadowed by the beloved honey bee you should know about, too!
One such group of pollinators native to Florida are sweat bees. Sweat bees get their unfortunate name from their nutritional requirements of salt that are sometimes sourced from sweaty humans. They rarely sting but are capable, and they can certainly be annoying to people when they lick salt off their skin. This behavior tends to get more attention than their important role as pollinators.
A subgroup of sweat bees are furrow bees. Furrow bees nest in the ground or rotting wood and may be solitary or eusocial. In-ground nests are composed of branching tunnels in sandy soil at a depth between 8 inches and 3 feet with a small entry roughly the size of a pencil. Within the tunnels, the mother creates individual cells stocked with nectar and pollen and lays an egg. The larva feeds on these provisions and pupates underground eventually emerging as an adult. The life cycle can vary from a few weeks to a year or more depending on species and environmental conditions.
Furrow bees are generalist feeders which means they will visit many different flowers, so diverse landscapes are attractive to them. In my northwest Florida garden, I see them often on sunflowers, Black-eyed Susan, coneflower, cosmos, tithonia, zinnia, and tickseed.
Poey’s Furrow Bee is a common visitor to sunflowers. J_McConnell, UF/IFAS
Unknowingly we interact with many small creatures in our everyday lives. Spiders are one of these groups that are beneficial to the function of human activity. This group receives much publicity as being dangerous to people and our pets. While there is always a possibility of being bitten and having venom injected by a few types of spiders, most all others are harmless to people. The primary benefit of spiders is their propensity for catching insects outside and in the home that are identified as harmful to people. Spiders come in all shapes and sizes with many hiding away, never to be seen by people.
Spiders are often included in the same group as insects, but this is not true. They belong in the group arachnids and are closely related to ticks, scorpions and mites. Spiders have two body sections (cephlothorax and abdomen) and have eight legs while insects have three body sections (head, thorax and abdomen). Scorpions usually remain outdoors and may be found indoors during hot dry periods. They are nocturnal hunters of pests that include roaches. None of the scorpions native to Florida are capable of providing a lethal sting, but it is painful when it occurs, leaving a sore and swollen at the sting area. I was reminded of this after stepping on one in the late evening while moving around the kitchen with no lights on. If the person that is stung has allergic reactions to bee stings, observe them and take precautionary health measures needed.
The spider is an important predator of harmful insects and can be found about any where in and around the home, in the garden, and many other places in the great outdoors. An Extension Entomologist I knew from North Carolina State University always mentioned, when presenting to Master Gardener Volunteer classes, that at almost any time given time, we are within two to three feet of a spider, with most so small we never see them. They are great at keeping the beneficial and harmful insect populations in balance in nature.
If you decide to spray to manage your spider population, keep in mind that by reducing the number of spiders in the landscape, you can create a reverse problem with harmful insect populations increasing dramatically. If big webs are a bother, simply take a broom and knock them down. They will rebuild by the next day, but you may not need to be in that area for a while. Always be careful and wear gloves when working in the garden, especially areas that are dark and covered, such as irrigation valve boxes, wood stacks, and other similar places. These are prime locations where the Black Widow or Recluse spiders may be set up, waiting to ambush roaches and other insects. If you are bitten by either seek immediate medical care.
Finally, spiders are fun to observe in nature! One of the most interesting spiders to watch is observable during fall in Florida – the Yellow Garden Spider. They build large webs and often place a zig zap signature in the middle. This large spider catches many insects in the garden and landscape. With early morning sunlight and dew hanging on the web during the fall, it makes for a beautifully create piece of art. Enjoy nature and all the creative processes that occur from a safe distance – spiders included!
Elephant garlic grows well in our climate, including here at Turkey Hill Farm, where it is being harvested in late spring. Photo by Molly Jameson.
One of my all-time favorite vegetables to grow and eat is elephant garlic. While related to garlic, elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum) is actually considered a bulbing leek. Like garlic, it is in the genus Allium, a family of flowering plants that includes over 600 different species of onions, leeks, and garlic that are native to many parts of the world, including North America, Asia, North Africa, and Europe.
Elephant garlic is more mild tasting than regular garlic and can grow up to three times larger than regular garlic bulbs. Photo by Full Earth Farm.
Elephant garlic is very much garlic-like, but it has a milder, slightly sweet flavor and can grow up to three times the size of regular garlic bulbs. It is well-suited for growing in the Florida Panhandle, as it can take our heat and humidity much better than regular garlic.
Elephant garlic is a long season crop, requiring eight months for best results. It therefore should be planted in the fall for an early summer harvest. But if you just can’t wait, you can plant it now and still harvest this summer, but the garlic you harvest will most likely be one big round bulb instead of a bulb that can be separated into cloves.
When planting your elephant garlic, choose a location that receives full sun and has well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. When you are ready for planting, separate the individual elephant garlic cloves from a bulb and plant each six-to-eight inches apart, with the pointed end facing up. Cover the cloves with four-to-five inches of organic-matter-rich soil, and water well. Elephant garlic requires consistent moisture, so be sure to water your plants regularly, especially during any dry spells.
One of the unique features of elephant garlic is that it forms a tall, flowering stalk, or “scape,” in the spring. To encourage the plant to focus its energy on bulb development, remove the scapes. The top of the scape contains an edible round composite flower head that you can enjoy in salads or stir-fries.
Cure elephant garlic in cool, dry, and well-ventilated location. Photo by Molly Jameson.
As your elephant garlic plants mature, you’ll notice that the bulbs start to grow larger, the leaves that wrap the bulbs will decrease, and the tops will begin to turn a lighter green or yellow as they begin to die back. This is a sign that your elephant garlic is ready to be harvested. To harvest, gently loosen the soil around the bulbs with a potato fork and carefully lift them out of the ground.
If you planted late, or your elephant garlic experienced water or nutrient stress, you may still find that some of your harvested garlic only formed one big round bulb. You could leave these giant bulbs in place, and they should turn into cloves the following year. Or go ahead and harvest the big bulbs and use them in the kitchen just like you would regular garlic cloves.
Once harvested, you’ll need to cure your elephant garlic before storing. To do this, lay the bulbs out in a single layer on a dry, well-ventilated surface for at least a week. After the bulbs have cured, you can trim the roots and store them in a cool, dark place for up to eight to 10 months.
While elephant garlic may not be as pungent as regular garlic, it grows much better in our climate than regular garlic, and it still packs a flavorful punch, adding a unique twist to any dish. So why not give it a try in your garden? With a little care and attention, you’ll be enjoying home-grown elephant garlic in no time.
Mulch provides nutrients to soil and plants, reduces weed growth, controls soil temperature, and improves the look of lawns and gardens. It gives the landscape a neat, uniform appearance and is an excellent Florida-Friendly choice for hard-to-mow areas and shady spots. One should keep a 2- to 3-inch-deep layer of mulch on plant beds. Always leave at least 2 inches of space around tree trunks to prevent rot. Create self-mulching areas under your trees by allowing fallen leaves to stay in place. Though bark and wood chips are typically the most common mulch, other forms are just as beneficial. The following are the best overall mulches for Panhandle gardeners!
Bark and Wood Chips
Bark and wood chips are frequently used on flower beds and around small bushes and shrubs. As they decay, the material provides nutrients to the soil. Both materials are inexpensive and can be found at most gardening supply stores. Cedarwood chips are popular for their repellent properties, keeping fleas and other pests away.
Pebbles and Rocks
Pebbles and rocks are effective in retaining soil moisture and minimizing weed growth. They are excellent mulch alternatives for flower beds. Rocks are economical in cooler climates, where heat retained by rock mulch can extend the growing season. Since rocks do not decompose, they don’t provide nutrients to the soil. If you’re looking for a nutrient-rich mulch alternative, rocks are not a good choice. This can be easily remedied by fertilizing your landscape to provide more nutrients. If you decide to use pebbles or rocks, keep in mind that they can be difficult to remove if you switch to a different type of mulch a season or two.
Leaves and Pine Needles
Leaves and pine needles are an affordable nutrient-rich mulch alternative. Rake and gather fallen leaves each season and redistribute them above your soil. For the best results, one should shred the leaves. Let the shredded leaves dry before adding them to your garden to reduce bacteria growth and pest infestations. Pine needles decompose and add nutrients to the soil, just like other organic forms of mulch. They work best with plants that prefer acidic soil conditions, like holly gardenias, roses, and chrysanthemums. You can buy bundles of pine needles at your local gardening store or gather them from your own trees and spread them around your garden.
Pine bark in a Panhandle planting bed. Tree bark makes great mulch! Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.Pine bark is an excellent, regionally available mulch. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.Pine straw is a popular mulch in the Panhandle. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.Leaves make wonderful mulch! Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
Grass Clippings
Grass clippings are a cost-efficient alternative to traditional mulch. However, they must be dried out or composted before use to prevent potentially damaging heat from affecting plants. If you treat your lawn with chemicals, don’t use grass clippings in your flower or garden bed.
Compost
Compost is an affordable mulch alternative and enriches the soil by adding essential nutrients. Apply compost above your garden or lawn in a thin layer. Compost improves the soil, adding nutrients such as phosphorus, potassium, and nitrogen to your garden. One can make it yourself with discarded vegetable scraps, coffee grounds, dead leaves, and water.
Newspaper
Newspapers effectively keep weeds at bay, retain moisture, and regulate soil temperatures. Newspaper is equally functional compared to traditional mulches, but is not as visually appealing as other options. Moisten the newspaper slightly before laying it above the soil so that it stays in place. Then, add a thin layer of organic mulch on top. Apply five to eight sheets of newspaper at a time. If using newspaper without another mulch on top, shred it before applying it to your garden. Newspaper is biodegradable and will deteriorate like other mulches.
