You’re in the right hands if you want to grow pumpkins in Florida. While growing pumpkins can be tricky in Florida’s hot and humid climate, you can successfully grow Sunshine State pumpkins with the proper planning and care. Pumpkin is a popular vegetable in the cucurbit family. It shares this family with members of summer and winter squash. The pumpkin varieties differ from those called squashes by having coarser, more intensely flavored flesh and rinds that are softer at maturity than the winter squashes but harder than the summer squashes. Pumpkins refers to certain varieties of C. pepo L., C. moschata Duch. ex Poir., C. mixta Pang., and C. maxima Duch. Local tradition and common usage may dictate that a particular variety is called a squash in one area of the country and a pumpkin in another.
Pumpkin Varieties Choosing the right pumpkin variety is a major decision when growing pumpkins in Florida. Not all pumpkin varieties are suited to Florida’s warm and humid climate. Seminole Pumpkin is a native pumpkin variety well-suited to the state’s warm and humid environment. Traditionally grown by the Calusa, Creek, and Miccosukee peoples, Seminole pumpkins remain one of the tastiest and most reliable for Florida gardens. Seminole pumpkins are known for their hardiness and resistance to disease and pests. The Big Max variety is known for producing giant pumpkins that can weigh up to 100 pounds or more. Big Max pumpkins do well in Florida’s warm climate but may require extra care to prevent pests and diseases. The Jack-o-Lantern variety is the classic Halloween pumpkin for carving and decorating. Look for types suited to warm climates, such as “Funny Face” and “Big Moon.” The Pie Pumpkin variety is best used for cooking. If you plan to use your pumpkins for cooking, look for pie pumpkin varieties such as “Small Sugar” and “Early July.” These pumpkins are smaller and sweeter than carving pumpkins and are ideal for making pies, bread, and other baked goods.
Planting
Most pumpkin varieties need around four months to reach maturity. Pumpkins should be seeded by early July to be ready for Halloween. Spring pumpkins planted in March or April can be stored for use in October and November (though long storage is difficult in Florida). Early August seeding provides a fall crop for late November. Choose a sunny spot with well-drained soil for your pumpkin patch. Pumpkins can be grown in small gardens or containers if you need more space. Plant your pumpkin seeds about 1 inch deep and should be placed 6 feet in either direction, except for the bush types. Plant 3-4 seeds per hill, then thin when the plants are 2-4 inches tall.
Seminole pumpkins planted in raised beds at UF/IFAS Extension Jefferson County Office
Photo: De’Anthony Price
Maintenance
Once your pumpkin seeds have sprouted, it’s time to start caring for your plants. Pumpkins need consistent moisture to grow, so be sure to water them regularly. Aim to give your plants about 1-2 inches of water per week. Water thoroughly after planting to help the seeds settle in. Climbing varieties like Seminole can be trellised for more space while using slings to support larger fruits. Use a balanced fertilizer to help your pumpkins grow strong and healthy. Apply the fertilizer according to the package instructions. Pumpkins do well with large amounts of compost. Place compost under each hill before seeding. Side dress with a handful every three weeks or as needed. Keep an eye out for pests such as squash bugs and cucumber beetles, which can damage your plants. If you notice any signs of pests or disease, treat your plants with a pesticide or fungicide as needed.
Intercropping of okra and pumpkin (Jack-o-Lantern) planted at UF/IFAS Extension Jefferson County Office
Photo: De’Anthony Price
Fruiting
Like other cucurbits, pumpkins need bees for pollination to produce fruit. Bees are the primary pollinators for pumpkins, so make sure to plant flowers and other plants that attract bees to your garden. Each plant holds male and female flowers, and knowing the difference between them is essential. Male flowers have a long, thin stem and no fruit behind the flower. Female flowers have a swollen, bulbous base that will eventually become pumpkins. It’s essential to have a good balance of male and female flowers to ensure a proper fruit set. If large-size fruits are desired, keep only two fruits on the vine. Once two fruits are the size of baseballs, remove all others as they form.
Harvest and Storage
Pumpkins are ready to harvest when the skin is hard, and the stem is dry and brown. Cut the stem about 2 inches above the pumpkin. After harvesting, allow your pumpkins to cure in a cool, dry place for 10-14 days. Curing helps the skin to harden and protect the pumpkin from pests and diseases. Once your pumpkins are cured, store them in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Avoid storing them on concrete or damp surfaces, which can cause them to rot. Pumpkins keep for a few weeks, but long-term storage of 1–4 months is challenging in Florida. Store them in a dry (70% RH) and cool (50–60°F) place where possible.
Trying to rejuvenate your flower beds can be challenging during these hot days and warm nights. This presents a chance to carefully select and plant varieties that not only endure but thrive in the scorching summer season. Luckily, Florida gardeners have many options, including bulbs. Bulbs are known for their ability to flourish and produce beautiful flowers year after year with proper care. Three of these, Aztec Lily, Walking Iris, and Spider Lily, can be planted during the month of August.
Aztec Lily.
AZTEC LILY
The Aztec Lily, a tender perennial bulb, belongs to the Sprekelia genus in the amaryllis family and is one of only three known species. Among them, Sprekelia formosissima stands out for its striking and showy flowers. Growing from 12 to 36 inches, Aztec Lillies are typically colored from scarlet to deep crimson, though there are also pink and white varieties available. Each bulb has the potential to produce multiple flower stalks annually, usually in sequence rather than all at once. The flowers exhibit bilateral symmetry, resembling the velvety appearance of an orchid. Aztec Lilies should be planted in full shade to part sun and can tolerate acidic and alkaline soil. These plants are incredibly versatile and well-suited for various landscaping purposes, such as mass planting, border decoration, adding accents to garden designs, and attracting butterflies to butterfly gardens.
Walking Iris.
WALKING IRIS
The Walking Iris, Neomarica spp., is a clumping herbaceous perennial, growing to a height of 18 to 36 inches. These plants boast attractive light green leaves and small Iris-like flowers that bloom periodically throughout the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Although the flowers have a short lifespan, they still add a delightful splash of color, making the Walking Iris an interesting addition to any landscape. The Walking Iris thrives in both full and partial shade, making it a versatile choice for your garden. While it can adapt to various soil types, it truly flourishes in moist areas. When grouped together in shady areas, the Walking Iris creates a lovely and eye-catching display. Its upright foliage, coupled with the occasional blooming flower, makes a bold statement in the overall landscape.
SPIDER LILY
Spider Lily.
Native to Florida, the Spider Lily (Hymenocallis latifolia) is a captivating perennial featuring alluring foliage and fragrant white blossoms. This clumping plant exhibits long, dark green leaves that emerge from an underground bulb, gracefully reaching a height of 24 to 36 inches. During the summer and fall seasons, the Spider Lily adorns itself with numerous white flowers, known for their enchanting fragrance, remarkable longevity, and delicate appearance. For optimal growth, place your Spider Lily in either full sun or part shade, and ensure the soil is well-drained. With its rapid growth, the spider lily serves as an excellent ground cover option, spreading its beauty across the landscape. Alternatively, it can be strategically planted in borders or highlighted as a specimen plant, adding charm and elegance to any garden or landscape design.
In the world of flora, the Aztec Lily, Walking Iris, and Spider Lily stand out as captivating gems worth exploring. Each possessing its unique allure and charm, these three species display nature’s diversity and ingenuity. For more information about summer bulbs, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension Office.
Since Ponce de Leon first set foot in Florida around Easter in 1513 and gave the state its name – he called it La Florida, which loosely translates to flowery in English – Florida has been known for its amazing native wildflower displays. Florida’s primary native flower shows do indeed occur in the spring (the one observed by Ponce de Leon) and fall, but my favorite Florida “wild” flower is neither a native nor does it bloom in April or October. Rather, the Philippine Lily (Lilium formosanum) does its thing each year in the heat of the summer, when not much else wildflower-wise is blooming.
Hailing from Taiwan and the Philippines but naturalized throughout the Panhandle, the Philippine Lily is easy to spot. Often confused with Easter Lily (Lilium longiflorum), which blooms much earlier in the year, Philippine Lily blooms mid-July to August and sports classic lily-type flowers held high on study stems that may reach 7’ or higher. Emerging from the drab green of the surrounding summer landscape, Philippine Lily’s very large (10” or more), very fragrant, trumpet-shaped, creamy-white flowers are showstoppers. The propensity of the flowers to appear in elegant, “nodding” clusters of a dozen or more also adds to the effect. Admired by gardeners and other passersby during the day, at night these wonderfully scented flowers become a whirring site for evening pollinators, particularly the enormous Hummingbird, or Sphinx Moth.
Philippine Lily in bloom in late July. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
In addition to being a beautiful surprise in natural areas, Philippine Lily is among the easiest and most versatile of landscape plants to grow. The species prefers partial shade, but the thousands growing along roadsides in full sun speak to its adaptability. It is also right at home in our often dry, sandy Panhandle soils, and no special soil amendments are needed for the species to thrive. To get plants started, one may use either seeds or transplants from existing stands. If using seeds, simply sow them in your desired garden location into loosened garden soil, cover lightly, and water – the same seed sowing method can be used in pots for transplanting or sharing with friends later. Alternatively, you can dig or pull bulbs from natural areas where Philippine Lily already exists – assuming you have permission from the property owner. These newly dug and planted Lilies will need babying with regular water for several weeks to reduce transplant shock and improve survival.
Philippine Lily is probably best sited in the back of landscape beds to take advantage of the plant’s height and display its flowers over lower growing perennials. Siting in the back also allows pre and post bloom Philippine Lily stalks to hide amongst other plants as they don’t add much aesthetically when not in flower. Philippine Lily pairs very well with other low-maintenance summer-blooming perennials like Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta), Garden Phlox (Phlox paniculata), Milkweed (Asclepias spp.), and others.
While not a native wildflower, Philippine Lily certainly adds to North Florida’s reputation as La Florida! They are among the easiest to grow, highest impact “wild” flowers Panhandle gardeners have at their disposal. Enjoy them this summer in natural areas and consider adding a few to your landscape! For more information on Philippine Lily or any other horticultural topic, contact us at the UF/IFAS Calhoun County Extension Office. Happy gardening.
Many of the Mexican petunia plants, Ruellia simplex, growing in the landscape along the Gulf Coast are covered in white patches. The leaves appear to be growing fur, actual hairs, much denser than the dust of powdery mildew fungus. Excessive development of leaf trichomes, or surface hairs is referred to as erinea. The “fuzz” is the plant’s response to the feeding of eriophyid mites, also called gall mites. These native tiny, microscopic mites feed on the Mexican petunia leaves and stems, causing the plant to produce the white velvety masses. The distorted tissue provides shelter so the mites can continue to feed without being impacted by the weather or contact pesticide applications. Hot, dry conditions favor mite population increases. We have had plenty of that. However, the native mites are not likely to kill the invasive Mexican petunia, so they are not acting as an effective biological control for the plant.
Mexican petunia damage from the eriophyid mite.
Control of this native eriophyid mite begins with heavy foliage removal. Cutting the plants back to just a few inches above the ground removes the infested portion of the plant. The pruned parts need to be placed in a tightly sealed plastic bag before being sent to the landfill. If the location allows burning on-site, that is an even better option. Remember that these mites can feed on many other plants if allowed to escape. They have caused galls in crape myrtle, loropetalum, and hollies, as well as, vectoring diseases like rose rosette.
Then comes the tough decision. If the Mexican petunia is not one of the new sterile cultivars should the new growth be protected as it grows back? If you didn’t plant them or don’t remember what they were called when you purchased them, there is still a way to determine whether they are the invasive Mexican petunia or not. Invasive Mexican petunia produces seed after flowering. Were there any seed pods on the pruned parts? If so, you may consider killing off the entire planting. Several applications of a total vegetation herbicide with surfactant will remove them, leaving you a spot for a new purple flower, maybe a porterweed (Stachytarpheta), verbena or blue salvia.
Blue porterweed can be a substitute for non sterile Ruellia. Photo by Beth Bolles UF IFAS Escambia Extension
If your plants are sterile (have no seed pods), an application of horticultural oil and/or a miticide like abamectin sprayed with each flush of new growth will produce a pretty bed of purple flowers in a short period of time.
Flint corn is one of the oldest varieties of corn and has been cultivated by Native American tribes for thousands of years. Photo by Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org.
The Ancient Journey of Native Vegetables
The Americas are not only a land of beautiful landscapes and diverse cultures but also the birthplace of a remarkable array of indigenous plant species. Native vegetables have played a significant role in shaping the culinary traditions, cultural practices, and biodiversity of the region. To truly appreciate their significance, it is important to delve into their fascinating history and observe how they have evolved over time.
The cultivation of vegetables in North America, Central America, South America, and the Caribbean dates back thousands of years, with evidence of early farming practices emerging in Mesoamerica (central Mexico southward through Belize, Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica) around 9,000 BCE (Before Common Era), or about 11,000 years ago. Native peoples, including indigenous tribes, recognized the value of native plant species and skillfully cultivated them to meet their nutritional needs. Through trial and error, they learned to adapt and enhance the growth of these vegetables, setting the foundation for the crops we know today.
Squash has been an important agricultural crop for thousands of years. Photo by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org.
Maize. Maize (Zea mays), or corn, holds a central place in the history of American agriculture. It is believed to have originated from a wild grass called teosinte, which had few small, hard kernels enclosed in a tough husk. It was much smaller than the corn we know today and was barely edible, tasting more like a raw dried potato, with only a few hard kernels per ear. Ancient societies in present-day Mexico began domesticating maize 9,000 to 10,000 years ago, selectively breeding it to produce a variety of colors, sizes, and textures. Maize quickly became a staple crop, providing sustenance and shaping the cultural and economic practices of many indigenous civilizations, such as the Mayans and the Aztecs. Over time, its cultivation gradually spread northward, reaching present-day United States and Canada.
Squash. Squash (Cucurbita spp.) holds a significant place in the ancient history of the Americas, with evidence of its domestication dating back approximately 8,000 to 10,000 years ago. Native peoples in various regions, including Mesoamerica and North America, recognized the value of the flesh and seeds of squash as versatile and nutritious food sources. Domestication involved selecting and cultivating wild squash varieties with desirable traits, leading to the development of different cultivated squash varieties such as acorn, delicata, butternut, and zucchini.
The colorful seeds of Anasazi beans, named after the Anasazi Native American tribe who inhabited the Four Corners region of the United States from about 200 BCE to 1300 CE. Photo by Howard F. Schwartz, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org.
Beans. Common beans (Phaseolus spp.) have a rich and ancient history in the Americas, with evidence of their domestication dating back around 7,000 to 8,000 years in the region that is now Peru. Native peoples in Mesoamerica and the Andean region recognized the nutritional value and versatility of beans, incorporating them into their agricultural practices. Cultivated by civilizations such as the Maya, Aztecs, and Inca, beans were an essential staple crop alongside maize and squash. The domestication of beans allowed for the cultivation of various species, including kidney, lima, and black beans.
The Three Sisters. The “Three Sisters” have deep historical roots in ancient American agriculture, with evidence of their use over 7,000 years ago. This system, practiced by various indigenous civilizations, especially in Mesoamerica and North America, involved the intercropping of three key crops: maize, beans, and squash. Maize served as the central component, providing a tall stalk for the beans to climb. Beans enriched the soil with nitrogen through their symbiotic relationship with bacteria, allowing them to convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form that the plants can utilize. Squash, with its broad leaves, acted as a living mulch, reducing weeds and retaining soil moisture.
The Three Sisters synergistic trio enhanced soil fertility, prevented erosion, and yielded a nutritionally balanced diet for generations of indigenous communities. It also fostered a deep connection between humans and the land, emphasizing a holistic approach to farming that honored the interdependence of crops and the environment.
Despite their notoriety in Ireland, potatoes originated in the Andean region of South America. Photo by Edward Sikora, Auburn University, Bugwood.org.
Potatoes. While potatoes (Solanum tuberosum) are commonly associated with Ireland, they actually originated in the Andean region of South America, what is now Peru and Bolivia, between 7,000 to 10,000 years ago. Long before European arrival, Native Americans were cultivating potatoes. Over time, they developed different varieties of potatoes, adapting them to suit various climates and growing conditions. It wasn’t until the exploration and colonization of the New World in the 16th century that potatoes were introduced to Europe, eventually becoming a staple food crop there.
Tomatoes. Similar to the association of potatoes with Ireland, tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are often associated with Italian cuisine, including pasta sauces and pizza. And like potatoes, tomatoes also have an ancient history in the Americas, with evidence of their domestication dating back about 7,000 years. Native to western South America, particularly in the region that is now Peru and Ecuador, wild tomato species were cultivated by indigenous civilizations. Initially, tomatoes were smaller and had a more varied range of colors beyond red, including yellow and purple. Through years of selective breeding and cultivation, larger red varieties became more prevalent. Over time, the ancient Mesoamerican civilizations to the north, such as the Maya and Aztecs, adopted tomatoes into their agriculture and diet. Following the European colonization of the Americas, tomatoes were introduced to other parts of the world in the 16th and 17th centuries, where their popularity and cultivation spread widely.
Habanero peppers are believed to have originated in the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico and have been cultivated for centuries. Photo by Gerald Holmes, Strawberry Center, Cal Poly San Luis Obispo, Bugwood.org.
Peppers. Peppers (Capsicum spp.), or chili peppers, also originated in the Americas, specifically in regions that now belong to Mexico, Peru, and Bolivia. They were domesticated around 6,000 years ago and played significant roles in the cultures and diets of ancient civilizations like the Aztecs and Mayans. Peppers were introduced to other parts of the world through the exploration and trade routes of Spanish and Portuguese explorers. They played a significant role in spreading peppers to Europe, Asia, and Africa during the 15th and 16th centuries.
Some Other American Crops. There is a rich variety of lesser-known crops that originated in the Americas as well. Amaranth and quinoa, originating from the Andean region, are highly nutritious, rich in protein and essential amino acids. Chia seeds, native to Central and South America, have many culinary uses. Yucca, a traditional starchy root vegetable, has been cultivated in tropical regions for centuries. Fruits such as guava, papaya, and passion fruit originated from the Americas and have unique flavor profiles. Finally, the sunchoke, also known as Jerusalem artichoke, is a North American root vegetable known for its nutty taste and abundant dietary fiber.
The ancient journey of native vegetables in the Americas highlights their significance in shaping agriculture, culture, and nutrition. By embracing this ancient journey, we not only honor the wisdom and traditions of indigenous communities but also ensure a sustainable and inclusive future where diverse crops and food systems thrive, preserving the rich biodiversity and cultural legacy for generations to come.
When you hear the word “pollinator”, what is the first insect that comes to mind? If I had to guess, you would probably say honey bee. European honey bees play an important role in agriculture as pollinators and honey producers, but there are hundreds of native pollinators often overshadowed by the beloved honey bee you should know about, too!
One such group of pollinators native to Florida are sweat bees. Sweat bees get their unfortunate name from their nutritional requirements of salt that are sometimes sourced from sweaty humans. They rarely sting but are capable, and they can certainly be annoying to people when they lick salt off their skin. This behavior tends to get more attention than their important role as pollinators.
A subgroup of sweat bees are furrow bees. Furrow bees nest in the ground or rotting wood and may be solitary or eusocial. In-ground nests are composed of branching tunnels in sandy soil at a depth between 8 inches and 3 feet with a small entry roughly the size of a pencil. Within the tunnels, the mother creates individual cells stocked with nectar and pollen and lays an egg. The larva feeds on these provisions and pupates underground eventually emerging as an adult. The life cycle can vary from a few weeks to a year or more depending on species and environmental conditions.
Furrow bees are generalist feeders which means they will visit many different flowers, so diverse landscapes are attractive to them. In my northwest Florida garden, I see them often on sunflowers, Black-eyed Susan, coneflower, cosmos, tithonia, zinnia, and tickseed.
Poey’s Furrow Bee is a common visitor to sunflowers. J_McConnell, UF/IFAS
