by Roy Carter | Jan 20, 2014
January and February are typically the coldest months in Florida and plants can be damaged by low temperatures. But with your help, cold-damaged plants can often recover.
Cold damage on Ornamental. Image Credit Eddie Powell UF IFAS Extension Walton County
After a freeze, see if your plants are dry. Even injured plants need water.
Plants, however can be greatly damaged if the temperature drops suddenly. They have no time to acclimate to the freezing temperatures. Plants are damaged when ice crystals form the plant cells. The crystals expand, rupturing the cell walls and preventing the plants from maintaining shape. If severe, this can kill tender plants. On hardier plants, damaged foliage will appear wilted and curled down. In a few hours or days, it will darken and turn black. Flowers and buds my die, blacken, and drop to the ground if exposed to cold temperatures. Damaged flowers will not develop into fruit. Young branches and new growth are especially susceptible and may also blacken and die.
After freezing temperatures occur, remove damaged leaves and flowers as soon as they turn brown or black. This will help prevent diseases from attacking the plant. Pruning should be postponed until cold temperatures are no longer expected and new growth begins to appear on the plant. This is to make sure that live wood, which appears dead from losing its leaves, is not mistakenly removed from the plant. Cold damaged wood can be detected by examining the cambium layer (under the bark) of the plant. If it has black or brown discoloration, it is damaged and should be pruned back behind those points.
Living cambium layer beneath bark. Image Credit UF IFAS Pinellas County
Protect your plants from cold temperatures during the next cold front. Do this by moving potted plants indoors and covering tender landscape plants with a protective covering. Protective covering can include old bed sheet, pieces of material or fabric, and cardboard boxes. Be careful not to let the protective covering touch the plants. The surface of the covering will become as cold as the air temperatures and may damage any tender leaves it come in contact with. Also, don’t forget to remove the covering the next day when temperature raises this is important so the plants do not “bake” in the warmer temperatures. Plants placed near the house, lights, or other structures, which shelter them from wind, will be more protected than those fully exposed to the cold air.
Whatever you do, even if your landscape ornamentals have already suffered some cold injury. Do not relax your guard more frigid weather may be on the way. So, be prepared to keep your prized plants, as warm as possible, each time the weatherman predicts freezing temperatures. Plants should be fertilized in the spring, to encourage new growth. Try not encouraging any new growth, until all frost danger has passed.
For more information on freeze damaged plants contact your county extension agent and see Publication The North Florida Gardening Calendar
by Julie McConnell | Jan 13, 2014
King Sago Palm. Photo credit: Mary Derrick
The wordpress-platform version Gardening in the Panhandle began in May of 2012 and had 188 views from its inception through the end of the year. This was a new online version of a long running and award winning traditional print newsletter. 2013 brought a new e-newsletter format and a ramped up effort to provide science based articles that you, the reader, find interesting and useful as you garden in the panhandle. We have gotten your attention, you visited Gardening in the Panhandle 23,422 times in 2013!
Below is a list of the top fifteen most read articles from 2013 with links so that you can visit again if you missed it. Please let us know if there are topics you would like to see covered by leaving comments or emailing one the editors Matthew Orwat mjorwat@ufl.edu or Mary Derrick mderrick@ufl.edu.
# of Hits Title Author
by Gary Knox | Jan 7, 2014
‘Apalachee’ has light lavender flowers. Photo by Gary Knox
‘Apalachee’ crapemyrtle is a statuesque small deciduous tree with lavender flowers, dark green leaves and cinnamon-orange bark. Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei ‘Apalachee’ is one of the hybrids released in 1987 from the breeding program of the U.S. National Arboretum. It grows as an upright to vase-shaped, multi-stemmed tree in USDA Cold Hardiness Zones 7a-9b.
Seed capsules of ‘Apalachee’ add winter interest. Photo by Gary Gnox
Seed capsules add unexpected winter ornament to the leafless branches of the deciduous tree. Because individual flowers are packed tightly in the flower panicle, the seed capsules are correspondingly closely spaced. Persisting seed capsules add interest to the tree’s profile similar to the way dried flowers of oakleaf hydrangea continue to add interest long after the flowers have faded.
Crapemyrtle grows and flowers best in full sun with rich, moist soil but is tolerant of drought and all but wet soils. ‘Apalachee’ has good resistance to powdery mildew, very good resistance to cercospora leaf spot and moderate resistance to flea beetle (Altica sp.). This hybrid is susceptible to crapemyrtle aphid. ‘Apalachee’ performs best with minimal pruning. Crapemyrtle is best located away from pavement and structures that may be stained by fallen flowers.
Cinnamon-orange bark of ‘Apalachee’. Photo by Gary Knox
‘Apalachee’ grew to a height of 26 feet and a width of 21 feet in 15 years at former University of Florida facilities in Monticello, Florida. It was one of the most outstanding crapemyrtles in that evaluation planting. This crapemyrtles’ form, vigorous growth, dark green leaves, lavender flowers, cinnamon-orange bark, and persistent seed capsules give it year-round appeal and allow it to stand out among crapemyrtle cultivars.
Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei ‘Apalachee’ has not yet been evaluated using the IFAS Assessment of Non-Native Plants in Florida’s Natural Areas. Without this assessment, the temporary conclusion is that Lagerstroemia indica x fauriei ‘Apalachee’ is not a problem species at this time and may be recommended.
‘Apalachee’ crapemyrtle in full bloom. Photo by Gary Knox
by Taylor Vandiver | Dec 24, 2013
Garden Tools. Photo courtesy: UF/IFAS Gardening Solutions
Due to a lack of snow, Florida’s winter landscape chores are relatively uncomplicated. However, that doesn’t mean they’re unimportant. As the growing season comes to a close and gardeners mow, snip and spade for the final time, it’s time to consider proper cleaning and storage of all that equipment. A little preventative maintenance can avoid frustration and expensive repair in the future. When tools are maintained properly their life is extended substantially and their work efficiency is increased. A few examples of preventative care include cleaning and sanitizing, sharpening blades, and maintaining power equipment.
When cleaning tools, remove caked on soil or vegetation using a wire brush, scraper or a strong stream of water. Sharpen hoes, pruners, loppers and saws.
Always remember to check tools thoroughly for loose screws or nuts and tighten them accordingly. Spraying the bare metal parts and cutting edges of tools with a penetrating oil, such as WD-40, will help prevent rust. It is thought that wiping tools’ wooden handles with boiled linseed oil will help prevent wood from cracking and drying.
Another item to consider while preparing one’s landscape for the winter is the garden hose. While hoses don’t need a great deal of care, a few small steps are important if they are to last. Store hoses on hose supports or reels or coil them loosely rather than hanging them on nails. Using hose supports or reels prevents the hose from sagging and kinking. Drain all the water and store in a dry location before storing hoses away for the winter.
Power equipment, such as lawn mowers, may require additional winter preparations. Always refer to the owner’s manual for specific information. However, in general, the following steps can be taken to winterize this equipment.
Remove collected grease, dirt and plant material from the equipment. It is always beneficial to check for loose screws and nuts and tighten them accordingly. Remember to sharpen cutting edges. If equipment has a four-cycle engine, change the oil by following instructions listed in the owner’s manual. Remove all gasoline from tank. It’s good to run the engine a turn or two to coat the cylinder walls with oil, and then replace the plug.
Two-cycle engines, or engines that run with a gas and oil mixture, also should have the oil-gas mixture removed for the winter. Run the engine with the choke open to remove fuel from the lines. Check the spark plug and replace if it is worn. Replace other worn or damaged parts as well. Always avoid storing gasoline over the winter. Old gasoline does not ignite easily, making the machines using it work harder.
Once the cold weather creeps in to Florida, gardeners may feel as if they can sit back and wait for spring, however, don’t neglect proper maintenance of garden tools. When the weather warms up, properly working garden equipment will be the gardens’ best asset!
For more information feel free to contact your local Extension Office.
by Julie McConnell | Oct 14, 2013
Swamp Sunflower Photo credit: UF/IFAS Milt Putnam
Fall Blooming Native Wildflowers
Drive along any highway or rural road at this time of year and chances are some color will catch your eye; not so much in the tree tops, but in ditches and right of ways.
Although yellow seems to be the predominant color in the fall, pay attention and you may spot reds, oranges, and even some blues in the wildflower pallet.
Examples of wildflowers that bloom late summer to early fall in the Panhandle:
• Bluestar (Amsonia ciliate), blue flowers, 1-3’
• Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuberosa), orange flowers, 1-3’
• Lanceleaf Coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata), yellow flowers, 1-2’
• Leavenworth’s Coreopsis (Coreopsis leavenworthii), yellow flowers, 1-3’
• Swamp Sunflower (Helianthus angustifolia), yellow flowers, 2-6’
• Rayless Sunflower (Helianthus radula), purple flower, 2-3’
• Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis), red flowers 2-4’
• Lyreleaf Sage (Salvia lyrata), purple flowers, 1-2’
• Goldenrods (Solidago spp.), yellow flowers, 1.5-6’
• Tall Ironweed (Veronia angustifolia), purple flowers, 2-4’
To learn more about these and many other wildflowers read EDIS Publication “Common Native Wildflowers of North Florida.”
by Mary Salinas | Sep 23, 2013
Is the newest growth on your sago palm turning yellow, brown, frizzy looking and dying – is it a pest or disease or something else?
Photo credit: Mary Derrick
This sago palm is suffering from a classic case of manganese deficiency. When sago palms lack manganese, the newest leaves will develop yellow splotches or be entirely yellow. As the leaves die, they turn brown and take on a frizzled appearance. Sometimes the leaves or fruit may be smaller than normal. If left unchecked, the sago usually dies.
Manganese is a micronutrient required by all plants for normal, healthy growth and is most available for plant uptake when the soil pH is between 5.5 and 6.5. Soils in the Florida panhandle are often naturally low in manganese and then what available manganese is present can be unavailable for the plant to use if the pH of the soil is much above 6.5. Also, manganese tends to be leached from the soil when the pH is below 5.5. Soil pH and nutrient testing is useful to determine if soils are nutrient deficient. Contact your county Extension office for information on getting that done.
[notice]Before treating, rule out an infestation of Asian cycad scale. Click here for a UF IFAS Extension publication on this damaging insect. Be aware that both are common problems for sago palms and that your sago may be afflicted with both![/notice]
If this is happening to a sago palm, the good news is that it is easy to correct. Manganese sulfate is readily available at garden centers, feed &seed stores and independent nurseries. Just make sure to get manganese sulfate and don’t confuse it with magnesium sulfate (Epson salts). The amount of manganese sulfate necessary to correct this deficiency will vary with its size, soil type and pH. Sago palms in sandy, acidic soils require less manganese sulfate than those in high pH soils. One ounce is sufficient for a very small plant in sandy, acidic soil. A very large sago in a high pH soil may require about five pounds, however. Spread the product evenly over the root zone and water in with about a half inch of water.
The affected leaves cannot be cured but new growth should return to normal. If the new growth is still affected, an additional application of manganese sulfate may be needed. Once sago palms have suffered from a manganese deficiency, half the initial rate should be applied yearly to prevent the deficiency from re-occurring.
Even though sago palms are not true palms – they are cycads – their nutritional needs are very similar to palms. Most of the time they grow well without any supplemental fertilization, but if they do need fertilizing, use a 8-2-12-4 (the fourth number is magnesium) palm fertilizer with micronutrients and avoid using other fertilizer products in their root zones.
For more information on sago palms please see:
Cycas revoluta, Sago Palm
