The trend of having a clover lawn, or sometimes called a “fairy” lawn, has gained popularity in the last years. The trend has gained fame as homeowners are more conscientious about the environmental impact of their gardening decisions.
A turfgrass lawn usually requires many inputs to perform at it best: irrigation, fertilization, and regular maintenance (mowing, weed control, etc.). Let’s be clear, turfgrass lawns are not “bad” for the environment per se. In fact, they provide multiple benefits: they control erosion; help with water infiltration; prevent storm water run-off; they reduce noise; and they capture carbon (CO2) from the atmosphere. What gives turfgrass lawns a bad reputation is all the external inputs needed for them to look well maintained and aesthetically pleasing. That is why clover lawns have gained some popularity.
Clover – because of its growth habit – does not require constant mowing. It is also a legume, and as all legumes do, fixes nitrogen into the soil (we may say it produces its own nitrogen fertilizer). Plus, it will have all the other benefits of a turf lawn, or any other plant ground cover: erosion control, water infiltration, storm water control, noise reduction, and CO2 capture into the soil.
There is a superior legume (in my opinion) that can be used as a lawn alternative that unfortunately only grows in warm semi-tropical and tropical climates. But I have good news for you: If you are a Florida resident, you do live in a subtropical or tropical climate!
I am talking about Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut.
Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut. Photo by Dr. Leynar Leyton, UF/IFAS Ornamental Plant Breeder and Assistant Professor in Environmental Horticulture.
Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut, it is a legume with far superior ornamental and growing habit characteristics than clover. You might be surprised by this statement, as you might heard – or seen- many bad examples of perennial peanut lawns, which give Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut a bad reputation. First, we need to understand that not all peanut plants are the same. Perennial peanut it is not the same peanut that is used for peanut butter or boiled peanuts. Although both are members of the same genus (Arachis) they are different species. Annual peanut (the one that produces peanuts) is Arachis hypogaea. In contrast, perennial peanut does not produce peanuts, and it is a perennial plant (it does not have to be planted each year).
Perennial peanut can be either Arachis glabrata or Arachis pintoi. These two species may look similar, but they are very different. Arachis pintoi, sometimes referred as ‘Pinto peanut’ is a stoloniferous species, which means it produce ‘runners’. Arachis glabrata, in the other hand, produces rhizomes. Rhizomes are underground ‘root’ like structures that store ‘food’ (carbohydrates or starch). I am sure you have seen rhizomes before; some examples include ginger, bamboo, and mint. This is a key difference between Arachis pintoi and Arachis glabrata.
Rhizomes in rhizome perennial peanut (Arachis glabrata). Photo by Dr. Leynar Leyton, UF/IFAS Ornamental Plant Breeder and Assistant Professor in Environmental Horticulture.
The rhizomes of Arachis glabrata give it an outstanding characteristic: drought resistance. Once Arachis glabrata gets established, and the rhizomes have had time to store nutrients and starch, the plant can resist long periods of drought. This does not mean that the plants will look ‘perfect’ under long periods of drought, but that it will survive and come back after it gets water again. The stoloniferous types (Arachis pintoi) lack the drought resistance, although they can be somewhat drought tolerant, but they will tolerate some flood conditions.
Another important characteristic to look for in Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut is the cultivar that you are buying. There are many forage types of rhizome perennial peanut, and you do not want those. Forage types are “taller”, between 6 to 18 inches tall, and were selected for their ability to produce biomass. Ornamental cultivars of rhizome perennial peanut are much smaller (less than 4 inches tall). That is why I have been intentionally calling it “Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut”. That is the key to have a beautiful perennial peanut lawn: using a rhizome, ornamental type of perennial peanut. Rhizome Perennial Peanut performs better in full sun, and in well drained soils. In heavier soils, rhizome perennial peanut will grow at a lower rate. And rhizome perennial peanut already grows a bit slower for the liking of some people (let’s remember that rhizome perennial peanut plants are not only growing green leaves above ground, but also storing nutrients and starch into the rhizomes underground). In average, rhizome perennial peanut will grow about 6 inches per growing season with good growing conditions. This is an important consideration when you establish rhizome perennial peanut. Rhizome perennial peanut also produces beautiful orange flowers, that attract pollinators.
Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut A. glabrata ‘Ecoturf’ in North Florida. Picture by Dr. Leynar Leyton, UF/IFAS Ornamental Plant Breeder and Assistant Professor in Environmental Horticulture.
One of the most popular cultivars of Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut are ‘Ecoturf’, ‘Cowboy’, ‘Waxy Leaf’ and ‘Needlepoint’. You might see ‘Golden Glory’ sometimes described as a rhizome type, but it is not. ‘Golden Glory’ is a stoloniferous type (Arachis pintoi) and it does not perform well. Our UF/IFAS Ornamental Perennial Peanut Breeding Program will release some new varieties of Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut soon, but I’ll tell you more about that in the upcoming months. Stay tuned!
Looking to add something to brighten your landscape this autumn? Firespike (Odontonema strictum) is a prolific fall bloomer with red tubular flowers that are very popular with hummingbirds and butterflies. It’s glossy dark green leaves make an attractive large plant that will grow quite well in dense shade to partial sunlight. In frost-free areas, firespike grows as an evergreen semi-woody shrub, spreads by underground sprouts and enlarges to form a thicket.
Bright red blooms of Firespike
In zones 8 and 9 it usually dies back to the ground in winter and resprouts in spring, producing strikingly beautiful 9-12 inch panicles of crimson flowers beginning at the end of summer and lasting into the winter each year. Firespike is native to open, semi-forested areas of Central America. It has escaped cultivation and become established in disturbed hammocks throughout peninsular Florida, but hasn’t presented an invasive problem. Here in the panhandle, firespike will remain a tender perennial for most locations. It can be grown on a wide range of moderately fertile, sandy soils and is quite drought tolerant. Firespike may be best utilized in the landscape in a mass planting. Plants can be spaced about 2 feet apart to fill in the area quickly. It is one of only a few flowering plants that give good, red color in a partially shaded site. The lovely flowers make firespike an excellent candidate for the cutting garden and is a “must-have” for southern butterfly and hummingbird gardens. Additional plants can be propagated from firespike by division or cuttings. However, white-tailed deer love firespike too, and will eat the leaves, so be prepared to fence it off from “Bambi”.
UF/IFAS Extension Agents from across the Florida Panhandle had a great discussion about fall vegetable gardening in the latest episode of Gardening in the Panhandle LIVE! Fall Vegetable Gardening on September 12th. As usual, we had a great bank of questions supplied by our viewers and we want to follow up by sharing a recap of the discussion with reference links so you can dig deeper into the recommendations they provided.
Fall is a season that is synonymous for two great joys in life…..football games and the changing leaf colors! However, in Florida we just don’t have the incredible burst of vivid fall leaf color as our northern neighbors enjoy each year, but we do have enough temperate region plants that can give us some seasonal change in foliage.
So what makes this brilliant display of autumn leaf color anyway? This seasonal change is brought on by a few variables, such as lower temperatures, shorter photo period/shorter days and chemical pigments found in leaf tissues. Some of the pigments that give autumn leaves their bright colors are actually present in the leaves as soon as they unfold as flush in early spring. But, during spring and summer, when the plants are growing vigorously, a green-colored material called chlorophyll dominates and shades out the other leaf pigments.
Chlorophyll plays on important role in a process called photosynthesis, which is the process by which plants capture energy from sunlight and manufacture food. Chlorophyll can also be found in water bodies and is an indicator of water quality. As plants get ready for cool season dormancy, the production on new chlorophyll decreases to almost being nonexistent. That’s when the before mentioned pigments, also called carotenoids, take over and make the leaves turn brilliant orange, red, purple and yellow.
There are some plants in the Florida’s landscape that do provide good fall color. Unlike most of the flowering shrubs, which hold their blossoms for only a brief period, the trees and shrubs that turn color in the fall will usually retain their varied hues for a month or more, depending on the weather.
Red Maple. Credit. UF/IFAS Extension
What are some examples of trees that will lend fall color in your Panhandle landscape?
Shumard Oak
Turkey Oak
Ginkgo
Hickory
Golden Rain Tree
Red Swamp Myrtle
Dogwood
Red Maple (see photo)
Sweet Gum
Black Gum
Crape Myrtle
Tulip Tree
Bradford Pear
Cypress
What about annuals that provide color in the fall? Petunias, pansies and snapdragons will be in full bloom over the next few months.
Firespike. Credit. UF/IFAS Extension
What about blooming perennials for fall? Salvia, firespike (see photo), chrysanthemum, beautyberry and holly are great for color in the fall and attract wildlife to your landscape.
A mix of these plants will ensure fall color in your landscape. For more information contact your local county extension office.
In the ever growing urbanization of our world today, green spaces are hard to come by but are so essential to biodiversity conservation. Pollinators, such as bees, butterflies, and birds, play a crucial role in our ecosystem by facilitating plant reproduction. Unfortunately, pollinator populations are declining due to habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change. However, by making simple changes to your garden, you can create an environment that supports and protects your pollinators. In this article, we will discuss ways to turn your garden into a pollinator paradise.
Gulf Fritillary butterfly on flower. Photo taken 09-26-22. UF/IFAS Photo by Cat Wofford.
Choosing Native Plants
Native plants are adapted to the local climate and soil conditions, making them ideal for supporting native pollinators. Research native species that thrive in your region and incorporate them into your landscape. Aim for a diverse selection of flowers that bloom at different times throughout the year to provide a continuous food source for pollinators.
Flowers and insects at the student gardens on the University of Florida campus. Pollinating bee. UF/IFAS Photo by Tyler Jones.
Providing Shelter and Nesting Sites
Pollinators need more than just nectar-rich flowers; they also require sheltered spaces for nesting or overwintering. By incorporating features such as brush piles, dead trees, and nesting boxes you are creating habitat diversity for the pollinators. Leaving some areas of bare soil for ground-nesting bees and providing water sources like shallow dishes or birdbaths can further enhance your garden’s appeal to pollinators as well.
Avoid Chemical Pesticides
Chemical pesticides not only can harm pollinators, but they can also directly disrupt ecosystems. Instead of reaching for a spray on the shelf to deter pests, consider using a natural pest control method such as companion planting, handpicking pests, and encouraging natural predators like ladybugs and birds. Certain organic gardening practices not only protect pollinators, but can also promote your garden’s overall health.
Embrace Imperfection
A manicured garden may look appealing, but it can be sometimes inhospitable to our pollinator friends. Create a more naturalistic approach by allowing certain areas of your garden to grow wild. Letting plants go to seed, leaving some leaf litter, and allowing flowers to fade and form seed heads provide valuable resources for pollinators throughout their life cycle.
A butterfly garden at a Florida-Friendly Landscape. UF/IFAS Photo taken by Cat Wofford 9-29-23
Educate and Inspire Others
Because pollinator numbers have rapidly declined in recent years, awareness and education of their importance to our ecosystem is crucial. Spreading the word of their importance and how you can contribute to conservation efforts truly helps the cause. UF/IFAS Extension has made great efforts in hosting workshops, giving presentations, and sharing information through newsletters and social media about the importance of creating pollinator habitats. We encourage you, your neighbors, friends, and community members to join in the movement of creating pollinator-friendly gardens and landscapes.
By transforming your garden into a pollinator paradise, you not only enhance its beauty, but also play a vital role in conserving biodiversity. Every flower you plant and every habitat you create contributes to the well-being of bees, butterflies, birds, and other pollinators. Together, we can make a difference and ensure a thriving ecosystem for generations to come.
On occasion, homeowners report being troubled by certain slimy visitors to their gardens. Perhaps not the first pest most people would think about in their landscapes, snails are nonetheless a source of frustration for some. While many species are harmless or even beneficial, some can make a nuisance of themselves by munching on plants, or even just congregating in large numbers.
Just sighting a snail is not always cause for alarm. Snails are gastropods, a type of mollusc that is closely related to slugs. Snails may be found in the water or on land, and terrestrial species are often seen in areas where moisture is plentiful. Many feed on decaying organic matter, doing the important job of breaking down dead material in the environment. Others may eat living plants, and can cause consternation when they chew holes in the leaves of vegetables or ornamentals. A few may even act as predators, such as the native rosy wolf snail, which attacks other snails.
Farmers have found difficulty in dealing with Bulimulus sporadicus, a species introduced from the West Indies. This species is often found in moist areas, and seems to prefer feeding on decaying plant matter rather than live plants. However, it is prolific and gregarious, with large populations appearing on walls, fences, irrigation emitters, and on plants. Peanut growers may have difficulty screening the shells, which are around the same size as a peanut, from their harvest. Growers relying on irrigation to water their crops may find nozzles clogged by snails seeking out moisture. And homeowners may find their homes polka-dotted with dozens of these little creatures.
When snails get together, it may be an alarming sight. Bulimulus sporadicus doesn’t seem to damage plants, but does like to congregate. Photo credit: Danielle Sprague
If you are having trouble with snails, consider trying to reduce areas of higher humidity that they may shelter in. Mulch, dead vegetation, or weedy areas can all hold moisture, making happy homes for slugs and snails. While it may be difficult or almost impossible to control humidity, denying pests their shelter can help to keep them away.
Commercial repellents are available. Copper fungicides may protect plants from fungal diseases as well as leave residues that snails find distasteful. Hydrated lime or sulfur dust at the base of plants can repel snails, though be aware that they may have an effect on the pH of the soil if used in large amounts, or over time.
Traps can be of some help in reducing snail populations. A dish with steep sides, sunk into the ground and baited with something attractive, may be able to trap snails in it. Beer, fruit, or leafy greens like lettuce can work, though they may also attract raccoons or other animals.
Some baits containing molluscicides may also be available, but these may or may not be effective.
Ornamental Rhizome Perennial Peanut A. glabrata ‘Ecoturf’ in North Florida. Picture by Dr. Leynar Leyton, UF/IFAS Ornamental Plant Breeder and Assistant Professor in Environmental Horticulture.
