The Q&A on Subtropical Fruits offered valuable information on many types of subtropical and temperate fruits of interest to homeowners. Below are the reference materials related to specific questions that were asked along with notes from the panel discussions.
Papayas are grown from a seed, not from air layering or grafts. There are some disease issues from Papaya ringspot virus. May have to start new plants. Less than a year from seed to fruit. Seed can be all male, all female, or have both male and female flowers. Need to get rid of the males. Male flowers hang off the tree where females stick to the stem more.
What are the best varieties of limes to grow in the Panhandle? Growing “Tahiti” Limes in the Home Landscape: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/CH093
Tahita and Persian limes are in retail nurseries. These are cold sensitive so plant in protected areas. Key limes would need to be in a container for most people.
Rangpur lime is a lemon and mandarin cross.
Bananas continually produce nice foliage but do not form fruit in 5 years. What to do? Maybe not spend any more time trying to get fruit. If the bananas are in a large clump, you don’t want to have a large clump. Cut them back so that you have 3 bananas, one large, one medium, and one small so that you get lots of light. That is the key to fruit. Remove brown leaves.
Can we grow a Barbados cherry successfully? Malpighia glabra, Barbados Cherry: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/FP/FP39000.pdf Small tree to about 6 feet x 6 feet. Mild flavor. Not really suitable for North Florida. Needs sunlight for fruit.
Can we get the transgenic papaya that is immune to the Ringspot virus? TREC Fruit Specialist has the papaya but it is not legal to introduce them into Florida at this time.
Advice on growing kiwi vine. Growing Kiwis in FL: https://nwdistrict.ifas.ufl.edu/hort/2019/04/09/kiwis-a-golden-opportunity/ Temperate fruit that requires chill hours. Golden varieties developed by Auburn University. AU Golden Dragon and AU Golden Sunshine. Need a substantial trellis. Male and female vines so male vine for every 2-3 females.
Papayas do not like the cold. Probably not likely to produce a fruit but can give it a try.
What about pineapples? Good option in a container. Bromeliad that is terrestrial that is watered through the roots.
I planted an arbequina olive tree and it’s struggling. Keeping in pot and protected from freezing but not thriving. Olives for Your FL Landscape: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/EP515
Olives like a more consistent temperature than the Panhandle offers. Needs excellent drainage.
Mexican avocado has survived freeze and flooding but still not thriving. Why? Avocado IPM: https://trec.ifas.ufl.edu/tropical-entomology/index.php Hass avocado, smaller ones from CA and Mexico. South Florida is too warm to grow Hass but it may work in North Florida. Green skinned avocado is grown in South Florida. More tasty. Florida avocados need a little cool weather to initiate flower and then fruit.
Avocados will not like wet soils.
Will lychee and avocado grow in Pensacola? Red fruit, white inside, similar to a grape but sweeter. Needs chill hours. 2018 lychee mite came into Florida and now in 13 counties. Difficult to manage.
Shade-tolerant subtropical fruits? Fruit needs sun. Monstera deliciosa, Swiss cheese plant, produces an edible fruit grows in shade. Definitely needs protection. DO NOT eat fruit early or you will have mouth pain. Fruit should be falling apart.
What subtropical fruits are garnering the most interest in the panhandle right now? Loquat Growing in the Florida Home Landscape: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/MG050
Mangos are of most interest in South Florida
What about akee? Caribbean fruit related to lychee. Do not eat before ripe or you will die.
Use traps crops, such as sunflowers and sorghum, to lure pests away from your crop. Photo by Molly Jameson.
To be a successful gardener, it is important to have an integrated approach to handling obstacles in the garden.
Aphids were lured into this sorghum seed head, which then attracted mealybug destroyer larvae, which are excellent garden predators. Photo by Les Harrison.
These considerations include techniques such as planting disease resistant crop varieties, maintaining proper plant spacing, planting at the appropriate time, monitoring the garden and properly identifying insects and diseases, watering uniformly, and many more cultural and preventative measures that will aid in a garden’s success.
As we transition from the relatively mild and dryer days of late spring into the hot and humid punishing days of summer, we often encounter more and more problems in our gardens.
Insects are commonly one of the main challenges we face, as warm temperatures and high humidity promote the growth and expansion of insect populations. To keep pests in check, it is important to consider all our options. If we turn too quickly to chemical controls, we will often encounter insecticidal resistance over time and our beneficial insect populations will be negatively affected.
One alternative to chemical controls to help combat destruction of our crops is by planting trap crops. Trap crops are plants you grow that the insect pest prefers for food and egg laying over the crops you grow that you plan to harvest. These trap crops attract harmful insects, luring them away from your garden veggies.
Sunflowers can attract leaf-footed bugs away from tomatoes. Hand pick and squish any that you see for better control. Photo by Molly Jameson.
One effective trap crop example, which has proven effective in research studies, is using the combination of sorghum and sunflowers to lure leaf-footed bugs away from your tomatoes. If left unchecked, large clusters of leaf-footed bugs will feed and mate on developing tomato fruit, leaving your tomatoes discolored and distasteful. For tomato growers, it is worth the effort to plant both sorghum and sunflowers about two weeks ahead of your tomato crop. The blooming heads of the sunflowers will lure the leaf-footed bugs in. Hand pick and squish both adults and nymphs off of the sunflowers to help cut back on their populations. As the sunflowers die back, sorghum heads start to emerge, giving you enough time to harvest your tomatoes while the leaf-footed bugs feed on the sorghum panicles.
Another effective trap crop example is to grow blue Hubbard squash at least two weeks ahead of cucurbit crops, such as zucchini, summer squash, or cucumbers. The blue Hubbard squash acts as the trap crop, luring cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and squash vine borers away from the crop.
Buckwheat flowers attract pollinators and predatory insects into the garden. Photo by Janis Piotrowski.
Trap crops are also a great tool for drawing in pollinators and natural predators of insect pests into your garden. For example, sweet alyssum and buckwheat flowers attract wasps and hoverflies. The wasps will lay their eggs on caterpillar pests, and when the eggs hatch, the wasp larvae eat the caterpillars as they mature. Hoverflies will lay their eggs on the leaves of the trap crops, which will hatch and feed on mealy bugs and aphids. Additionally, bees will be attracted to the trap crop flowers, introducing more and more pollinators into your garden.
When it comes to being a successful gardener, it is important to have an integrated approach. When cultural and preventative gardening techniques are combined with biological control techniques, such as trap cropping, your garden will be more resilient to pests and diseases, and you will be less reliant on chemical control methods, which should be seen as a last resort.
A threadleaf sundew in bloom, with its series of buds trailing down. Photo credit: Carrie Stevenson, UF IFAS Extension
The mucky, sunny spaces here in northwest Florida are inevitably full of beauty and surprises. Due to the sopping wet, acidic, and nutrient poor soil, plants in these areas must make some unusual adaptations. Wetland bogs are home to several interesting and carnivorous species, like pitcher plants and sundews. Most sundew species I come across are the tiny, pinwheel shaped dwarf sundews (Drosera brevifolia), which lie prone to the ground.
At a recent visit to the Roy Hyatt Environmental Center, I noticed a showy purple flower that at first I assumed was a meadow beauty.
Threadleaf sundew leaves glisten in the sunlight adjacent to a crop of purple flowers growing from separate stems. Photo credit: Hugh and Carol Nourse
Lavender, four-petaled meadow beauty flowers are common in wet areas. However, this plant was a bit different. First, it had five petals; but even more unusual was that something akin to a green caterpillar was hanging from every flower bloom. Intrigued, I bent closer and saw that the green segments were not a dangling invertebrate, but a series of fuzzy green flower buds. The bud closest to the purple flower was a deep violet and close to flowering.
Fields of curled fiddlehead leaves of the threadleaf sundew are a whimsical sight in wetland bogs. Photo credit: North Carolina State Extension Service (NCSES)
In all my years of exploring and leading people around pitcher plant prairies, I’ve encountered Tracy’s sundew/threadleaf sundew (Drosera tracyi)—a type of sundew with an upright, sap-covered stem—but never one in bloom.
Up-close view of a Drosera tracyi leaf. Photo credit: NC State Extension
Typically, you’ll only come across the slender, threadlike ( a structure known as “filiform”) fiddlehead leaves. These leaves look more like stems, and are bright green and covered in dewy, sticky, deadly-to-insects droplets. Insects are attracted to the shimmering drops of mucus, triggering a hormone in the plant that causes the leaf and its glands to fold over the prey. Once stuck, the insects suffocate and are digested by enzymes in the leaf glands.
The purple flowers appear in May or June, atop a single leafless stem that appears unattached to the threadleaf sundew leaves. According to the Georgia Biodiversity Portal, this series of flowers will “open one by one, from the bottom of a coiled inflorescence up, with unopened buds at the top. Flowers begin to open about 9:00 am and close about five hours later; some flowers persist for two days.” Threadleaf sundews can self-pollinate but are also attractive to bees.
When people think of livestock, honeybees may not be the first thing that comes to mind. Bees are, however, a very significant part of agriculture. It is estimated that 30% of the crops we use for food are pollinated by honeybees. That’s around $15 billion of crops! On top of that, these hardworking insects also produce honey, wax, and other products that we can use.
For those who want to get into the world of beekeeping, it can be a challenge to absorb all the information that’s out there. Thankfully, there are resources out there to assist. If you or someone you know are interested in apiculture, you might try:
Online resources. The University of Florida (UF) publishes research-based information in its EDIS publications. For topics relating to beekeeping specifically, you can go here: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/entity/topic/beekeeping. From there you can find links to specific publications, such as the Florida Beekeeping Management Calendar and much more. UF also has a Honey Bee Research and Extension Lab with online resources about their Master Beekeeper program and Bee College at https://entnemdept.ufl.edu/honey-bee/.
The American Beekeeping Federation maintains a website with tons of information on beekeeping at https://www.abfnet.org/. From there you can join the federation, find local groups, and find nationwide educational opportunities and resources for beekeepers.
The Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (FDACS) requires beekeepers to register hives. You can find information on that here: https://www.fdacs.gov/Agriculture-Industry/Bees-Apiary/Apiary-Inspection. This site has a lot of extra information on beekeeping and links to other resources as well!
Local Resources. While digital sources of information can help, nothing can take the place of simply having other beekeepers to go to for answers. Local beekeeping organizations are a great place to start. Listed by county, here are some from across the panhandle:
It’s the most asked question of Extension agents everywhere. “What is this weed and what herbicide should I buy to kill it?” The first part of that question is straightforward. Between personal field experience, formal plant identification training, and a team of weed science specialists to call on, Florida Extension Agents can get your weed accurately identified. The second part of the question is slightly more nuanced. Many weed problems can be avoided by following lawn and landscape Integrated Pest Management (IPM) practices, like not overwatering, mowing at the correct height, using mulch where you can, etc., but sometimes herbicides are required. For these situations, if you follow the “homeowners only need four post-emergent herbicides rule”, you’ll be ready for any weed challenge you face!*
Doveweed seedlings just emerged on July 9, 2021. Photo courtesy of Daniel Leonard.
The first weed scenario you should be prepared for is spot spraying weeds in landscape beds and around hardscapes like concrete pads, sidewalks, pools, driveways, etc. For this situation, you’ll turn to the backbone of the four herbicides rule and a staple in any weed management program, glyphosate. Glyphosate is the active ingredient (AI) in many non-selective products ranging from the infamous Roundup brand to cheaper generics like Killzall and Cornerstone. Glyphostate is extremely cost-efficient and very effective on a huge range of emerged weeds including grassy weeds, broadleaf weeds, and even sedges (also called nutsedge or “nutgrass”). Just be sure not to get any overspray on desirable plants or they’ll be seriously damaged!
The second situation we face occurs when “bad” grassy weeds invade landscape beds, shrubs, and vegetable gardens. These cases call for a grass-selective herbicide that you can spray right over the top of your broadleaf annuals, perennials, and shrubs to take out the unwanted grasses. In this case, there are two options at your disposal: sethoxydim (AI in many products like Fertilome Over the Top, Hi-Yield Grass Killer, Poast, etc.) and fluazifop (AI in the product Fusilade). Both products work well in removing weeds like crabgrass, bermudagrass, goosegrass, and others and can be safely applied over the top of many ornamentals.
Seeds from annuals like Chamberbitter easily get into mulch and turfgrass from surrounding areas. Photo by Beth Bolles, UF Extension Escambia County
From time to time, we need to treat a broadleaf weed like dollarweed, doveweed, chamberbitter, or any number of others, that have invaded our lawn grass. Some of these weeds are tougher than others, but almost all of them can be managed with the proper rates of 2,4-D, Dicamba, other similar products, or a combination of several of them. These active ingredients have been on the market for decades so there are many generic options at your disposal. However, if you have a truly tough broadleaf weed problem, the newer product Celsius WG from Bayer (a combo of Dicamba and two newer AIs), while a little pricey and only available online or at specialty chemical dealers, is well worth the expense and knocks out the most gnarly of lawn weeds.
Finally, there is a category of weeds that aren’t broadleaves and aren’t quite grasses either. These are the sedges. Commonly known around the Panhandle as “nutgrass”, sedges are a serious pest of lawns, particularly those that stay a little on the damp side, and vegetable gardens. Sedges, with their glossy leaves and distinctive flowers, stand out in lawns and gardens, are very unsightly in an otherwise well-maintained area, and can outcompete the desirable plants they invade. Fortunately, there are several AIs that work very well on sedges and are safe to use around turfgrass and many other plants. The most effective sedge herbicide AI for homeowners is halosulfuron-methyl (AI in Sedgehammer in lawns and Sandea and Profine in vegetables). Sedgehammer works very slowly (results can take up to a month) but is very safe in turfgrass and ornamentals and highly effective! If Sedgehammer and other halosulfuron products are difficult to obtain, Imazaquin is a slightly less effective but more common substitute. This AI can be found in the product Image Kills Nutsedge and is safe for use in turfgrass and most ornamental plantings.
The challenge of controlling the many types of weeds in your lawn, landscape, and vegetable garden seems daunting, but having just four basic classes of herbicides on hand can greatly simplify things! Whether you need to control a broadleaf, grass, or sedge weed problem, putting together a weed control toolbox containing a non-selective herbicide like glyphosate, a broadleaf selective like 2-4,D, a grass selective like sethoxydim, and a sedge selective like halosulfuron-methyl can allow you to handle most any weed you come across at home. For more information on controlling weeds in home landscapes and gardens or any other horticultural topic, contact your local UF/IFAS Extension office. Happy gardening!
*Most homeowners discover weed problems after the weeds are already up and growing, making post-emergent products necessary. Pre-emergent products have a place in weed management programs but are not the focus of this article.
